New brake lines?

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Getting the car inspected...buddy backs out of the garage and he gets out and says he snapped the break lines. I didn't have the time to think about fixing myself. How often do they break and next time is it something a -rookie- DIY'er could do?

Replace brake line from center of car to rear brake hoses...90
3/16 brake line....12 at 2.75
3/16 bubble flare fittings 8 at 3.87

Labor 119

Does that sound right?
 
Brake line stink because it's next to impossible to get the right lines. If he's using the right lines that does sound reasonable.

-T
 
Good, just curious and wanted to make sure that was in the ballpark. Could you briefly explain about getting the right lines or would it be too difficult for me?

Thanks.
 
quote:

Replace brake line from center of car to rear brake hoses...90
3/16 brake line....12 at 2.75
3/16 bubble flare fittings 8 at 3.87

I am sure that is double flare fittings. The flare is bent back upon itself. Only safe flare for brakes.

To make the double flare you need a special flare tool, that "upsets" it first before the tool is screwed in to press it down. I've never done any myself. Should be able to DIY, but practice first.

What is the 90 ? $90 ? Then what is the labor = 119 ? Is the fittings, 3.87, the tube nuts ?
 
I just replaced the lines on my 94 jeep cherokee from the brake proportioning valve back.I noticed they were in bad shape while installing the lift kit.
It cost me about $12 for the lines and about $5 for the hardware and about an hour to do. I already had the double flaring tool and brake line bender, but I think you can pick up a cheapy flaring kit and bender at most auto part stores for around 30 bux.
 
I have had to replace the brake lines on both my cars this year (93 corolla & 95 geo metro) both within the last 2 months. It is not a technical job, hardest part is getting into tight quarters to loosen the fittings. If you decide to do it yourself you will need 2-3 sizes of flare nut wrenches & a 6 point deepwell socket. Easiest way to get the fittings out is to cut the line close to the fitting & use the deepwell socket & a ratchet. Brake lines around here are 60" max so you have to use 1 or more couplers to connect 2 brakelines together, this is where you need the flare nut wrenches. Once you get everything together it takes about a quart of brake fluid to get all the air out & flush the front brakes so you start off with all new fluid. Just keep adding the good fluid to the master cylinder & bleed all 4 wheels until the fluid comes out looking new with no air bubbles. Replacing both lines on the corolla from the proportioning valve back was about 3hrs start to finish. 3/16" brake lines cost about $1.00 per ft so about $5.00 for a 60" line. To do the corolla wagon took 4 x 60", 1 x 40" & 3 couplers at $2.00 or so apiece + 2 qts valvoline synthetic brake fluid for a total of $45 in parts. Hopefully I don't have to do this often enough to get good at it
tongue.gif
 
Actually GM uses metric fittings and bubble[/] flares, not sure hwat kind of car we're talking about here though.
 
Labor was 119 then

Replace brake line from center of car to rear brake hoses...$90

95 Ford Taurus.
 
from T-Keith
quote:

Actually GM uses metric fittings and bubble[/] flares


H-m-m-m. Interesting. Thanks.
Here's a picture. Bubble flare on top. Double flared on the bottom.
I also saw reference to the bubble flare as a "European flare" and a "Girling flare."

 -
 
From the early 90's when I worked in a brake shop and part of my job was making new brake lines. Depending how much salt and other junk, brake lines eventually rust through. Don't remember any that weren't baddly rust pitted around the leak. Usually discovered when you need to maKe a hard stop. Older American vehicles used 3/16'' lines with inverted flare nuts, 3/8''-24. At some point the larger trucks switch to 1/4''. The flares had the outside folded inside to produce a 2 layer flare, double flare. Don't expect to get many flares out of a cheap flare tool.

Not sure when the Europeans started the bubble flare, 10 mm 1.0 thread. In the mean time the Japanese used the double flare, but 10 mm 1.0 thread looking very close to the 3/8''-24 nuts on American cars. By then, I think GM was using mostly bubble flares and I think Ford and Chrysler some too. The shop manual for my 92 Grand Am had a picture of a hand bubble flare tool. Not common.

Using 60'' lines, I would make up reasonable matches for old lines inserting as many flare unions as needed, and finish the end with a double flare. As the bubble flares become more common, we would start with a bubble flare line, cut it in 2, and finish the right lengths with a double flare union, or additional lengths as needed. With a bender and a double flare tool, anybody can do fairly well on making nice work of a brake line. Never risk your life on a compression union in a brake line.
 
My 87 Lesabre has a bubble flare with metric threads, called "european" at Checker.

-T
 
Bubble flare = ISO (Inside out) made with single punch

Double flare = SAE (usually 90*) made with 2 punches
 
quote
SteveU Member # 4268
posted November 09, 2005 08:13 PM
Bubble flare = ISO (Inside out) made with single punch

Double flare = SAE (usually 90*) made with 2 punches
unquote

Yeah Steve, very slight manufacturing economy, and perhaps even more for the port which looks mostly like an ordinary twist drill hole. For double flare, the hole needs to be deeper on the outside and a cone projecting out in the center. Double flare will be going the way of the carburetor.
 
I wonder if he snapped it by really stomping on the brakes.

If so, you owe your life to this gentleman as you could have lost the brakes next week in heavy traffic.

He sounds like he's using bulk line, cutting it to length, and flaring it himself. Alternatively auto parts stores sell pre-flared line quite cheaply in multiples of 10 inch lengths which is easy to bend. If the connectors don't match your car they sell adaptors. Extra inches are typically wasted in a loop near the master cylinder. That's how I do it myself; one could run all new lines for $30. Getting the flare right is intimidating for me so getting a factory flare on a prebuilt line is how I go.
 
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