Press in new bearings vs new hub/bearing assembly

[PandaBear]

$25 wheel bearing vs $90 bearing/hub assembly.

How much labor does it cost to press the thing in? Does hub last more than 240k miles if the bearing is replaced?

Which one is the best way to maintain a car for a very long time (over 300k miles)?

 

[Matt_S]

Personally, I'd trust the quality of a new hub assembly long before just replacing the bearing. The manufacturing process to produce the hub should be much more repeatable and reliable than a local shop just pressing in a bearing. Just go with a good name brand. I used Timken in mine and have been pleased so far.

 

[labman]

I didn't have much luck with cheapy hubs ($100) from Advance Auto on my Grand Am. I don't think I got more than 40K. I would risk the shop, especially if they are using a quality bearing. If it doesn't hold up, try the hub next time.

 

[Kestas]

The best hub maintenance is by regreasing at regular intervals (if they are serviceable).

Races are typically only replaced if they are failed or failure is imminent. Most failures of aftermarket bearings are from improper or abusive installation techniques.

Bearings are replaced as a set (IR, OR, rollers). This means the outboard set and inboard set can be replaced independently from each other.

Don't use bearings from third world countries - on average they are of poorer quality. Each bearing has the country of origin stamped on its side.

Some hubs have the races machined from the forged hub metal instead of a separable insert, meaning the entire hub must be replaced if there is a problem.

 

[Mud]

What Kestas said.

I've never had any issues with just replacing the front bearing assemblies. But then I use a press and don't smack 'em in there with a hammer.

ALWAYS use a high quality bearing as mentioned!

 

[PandaBear]

Looks like they are an "assembly" for a reason. It seems like more chances of f*** up pressing it in than anything else.

Speaking about quality, how is BCA?

 

[labman]

Likely BCA is OK, but I would be happier with Timken or Fafnir.

 

[Mud]

"Looks like they are an "assembly" for a reason. It seems like more chances of f*** up pressing it in than anything else."

Well, I guess enjoy your $90 part then.
"Assemblies" are sold because sometimes the hub is messed up - bad bearing, accident, etc. or the race is non-replaceable. So of course then I would opt for a new assembly. Most shops I think like the assembly choice due to the increasing basic incompentence of their techs. Just put the whole thing in there for less chance of a call-back.

I'm too old school I guess and still think that things can be reasonably fixed when possible.

Theoretically, I guess that the hub could go on for high miles if the wear points (bearings and races) were replaced when needed before any damage was incurred by the hib.

 

[Kestas]

...as long as they're not made in China. SKF is another good brand.

To press races in properly, make sure there are no burrs or debris on the mounting surface or shoulder. Lube the surface and press. Sometimes the races seat further during use. That's why it is sometimes wise to check the axial play after a few (50?) miles.

A lot of modern hub units are now designed for one-way assembly. There's no way to take those apart without destroying the bearing.

 

[mechtech]

labman - Gran Am wheel bearings go out more than any other, by far [in our shop].
Just an observation of past results.