how do I install drain plug in my trans pan?

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i just aquired a '95 GMC K-1500.

I want to install a drain plug.

Bought it yesterday, and i did not even look to see if there is one.

If not, how should I install one?

I want to drain and refill the trans 3 times (after installing new filter of course).

I dont want to "flush".

Thanks!
 
I went to AutoZone and bought a B&M brand drain plug kit. With the pan off you find a good location (one where it will not interfere with something inside the tranny) and drill a hole. Then the hollow bolt goes through and a gasket/washer and nut are tightened down inside the pan. Finally a drain plug goes inside the hollow bolt. When you loosen the plug, you should hold the hollow bolt so it does not back out. I had one installed in an Aerostar 3.0 and drained and refilled twice.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Kestas:
The trickiest part is drilling the 1/2" diam hole in sheet metal, unless you have that "stepped" drill.

A punch to put a round dent in the pan surface would keep the drill from wandering when starting the hole. I would think it would help to have a block of wood to back up the sheet metal when drilling.
 
Almost all kits like the B&M tend to seep a little bit. A quick wrap of teflon tape around the drain bolt threads before installing it will keep spots of ATF off your driveway or garage floor.

Just my 2 cents.
 
If you have access to a welder wire feed, tig, or even any oxy/acetylene will work if ya have brazing rod. but i'd suggest welding a thin jam nut of like 3/8 or 7/16 fine thread. Flanged bolts are easy to come by at the hardware store as well as a copper or aluminum washer. no chance of anything backing out that way.
As a suggestion, when ya put it in stick to the back and right side into the corner. thats the easiest corner for it to drain from by jacking the front end slightly. done mine many many times . If the fluid is dark at all i'd suggest doing the flush but change the filter immediately after. and I mean immediately or it wont matter much as you'll be goin nowhere fast.
44H
 
Most people want to drop the transmission pan so they can clean the filter at the same time. If all you want to do is remove the fluid, you can pump it out through the dipstick. Either way you will leave more than 1/2 of the old fluid in the torque converter.

The newer way seems to use a transission flush machine to push out all of the old fluid and install new fluid.

The most cost effective way to deal with transmission fluid is do have a flush done and install synthetic fluid and then let it go for maybe 50-60K miles.
 
Paul, in addition to using a punch, I usually first drill a pilot hole, perhaps 3/16". This helps to guide the 1/2" hole.
 
Crawl under and take a look. Some of the GM trucks came with a drain plug in the trans pan. Used to be one was available from Chevrolet, but it was discontinued about a year ago.
Terry
 
Why not just use a self tapping hollow bolt? Since everyting is done with a punch and then a greased tap, there are no issues with shavings or even removing the pan in the first place. Wish I'd known about those things years ago.
 
You might have some trouble welding stainless to regular steel.

A self-tapping hollow bolt might work as well, but I'd really want to have the pan off to make sure I wasn't screwing the bolt into some transmission part hanging low into the pan...such as the filter body.
 
I have used the B & M kit for several cars and the only problem was the whole assy would unscrew when you tried to remove the center drain plug. I guess that was why they were welding the plug. I use a '99 Silverado ATF pan on my '94 Impala SS. It has more capacity than the stock imp pan AND it has the drain plug. Go to your favorite GM parts counter and request a Silverrado/ Sierra pan with drain plug. If it is a larger capacity ATF pan than your GMC pan, be sure you get the corresponding filter kit with the 1/2" longer neck. As someone suggested, some say it is no longer available. I prefer the GM ATF pan because it won't leak like the after market ones do.
 
I just installed a drain plug kit on the Lumina (4T60 trans). I used two 1/2" Stat-O-Seal washers; one inside the pan and one out side.

The NAPA drain plug kit doesn't use a pipe plug. It uses a straight thread plug which I also used a 3/8" Stat-O-Seal.

No seeping....not yet anyway. The plug looks way vulnerable sticking out the way it does
shocked.gif


I also used red Loctite on the threads of the thru bolt. I'll still use a backup wrench when I remove the plug, though.
 
I'd pull out the yellow pages and see if there are any shops in the area that can weld. Exhaust shops, etc. Welding a nut on the outside will not only not leak, but there won't be anything on the top side of the pan to keep the last little bit from getting out of the pan.
 
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