NAPA's cool drain tip ?

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Hot oil drains quicker, for sure.
That's about it for benefits.
If you think you are flushing debris out of your pan with hot oil, you are not. Just taking longer to do it. If you have deposits in the bottom of the pan, you have real problems.
I've done a jillion oil changes and don't see deposits settle out of oil - they remain mixed rather well, hot or cold.
 
Yes, it'll drain off anyway but during an oil change there's a lag time in getting back up to pressure since the filter "usually" starts out empty.


QUOTE]Originally posted by tblazed:
"By giving it this much time you're gradually loosing valuable residual oil clinging to cylinder walls and other critical engine parts."

Won't the oil drain off those upper surfaces and parts anyway, down into the oil pan?

I always let it idle 'til the temp is about 1/2 way up, then pull the plug and let it drain long as it will drip usually several hours. This is something the quickie oil change places completely miss.
[/QUOTE]
 
I always drain warm, I start the car completely cool and drive around about 3 minutes until the coolant temperature hits it's 200 degree mark. At that point the oil with my engine the oil is still cool enough for me to touch, but the oil has everything mixed together for a UOA(also remember the warmer a fluid, more can be dissolved in that fluid).
 
quote:

Originally posted by GROUCHO MARX:
I drain oil hot, filter much less hot when I can.

The SureDrain makes the oil drain less hazardous, not so for the filter.


I have three Sure Drains. You kind of have to drain them hot to get decent flow.

Before the Sure Drain I did the Aerostar 3.0 cold a few times and it was great not having oil come from the filter all over the starter, which some brilliant engineer decided to put directly below the oil filter mount.
 
I start it up, and eithor let it idle for a few minutis or drive it up the road and back till the tempurature guage gets to that spot where it always stops. This results is oil that is hot to the touch- uncomfortably hot, but that does not cause actual burns. Just seems to me, that you can get more of the old oil out faster if you drain it while hot. I let it drain for about 20 minuts, and call it good. I usually use latex gloves (we buy boxes of em for the garage), the layer of rubber offers enough insulation that the heat of the oil doesn't hurt much.
 
It's better for the engine if you drain warm and refill as soon as possible. starting an engine cold and having to wait several seconds for the drained system to refill causes more wear. that's why BMW requires a change to be done with a warm engine. I usually wait 1/2 hour or so after driving to change then get it done reasonably quickly.
 
mdocod - Try vinyl gloves. They cost the same, and are much more resitannt to oils/solvents, and are WAY tougher than latex.
[I had to post here because no contact was available]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Eddie:
The statement said to drain COOL. That means NOT COLD and not HOT. I drain Cool or warm after a drive. I also do not use drain valves because they drain slower rather than flushing the pan and they do not drain all of the oil. JMHO

On my '99 Dakota the depth of the threaded hole in the oil pan is 5/8'' deep. The total threaded length of the Fram Sure Drain is only 7/16".

So that means that the Fram Sure Drain does NOT protrude into the oil pan at all, and all of the oil drains out of the pan.


Darryl
cheers.gif
 
The statement said to drain COOL. That means NOT COLD and not HOT. I drain Cool or warm after a drive. I also do not use drain valves because they drain slower rather than flushing the pan and they do not drain all of the oil. JMHO
 
I drain in the morning after the car has sat all night. That way I get the most possible of the old used oil out. The need for hot draining dates back to when many people ran non-detergent oil that didn't keep particles in suspension, and some of those old cars didn't have much more than a screen for an oil filter to capture dirt.
 
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