What is the best 1 man brake bleeder?

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I hate having to ask someone to pump the brake pedal for me.

Does anyone know how to activate the ABS pump on a 95 accord to change the fluid?
 
I too have trouble finding help when I need it. I've had success by installing a hose to the bleeder, crack the bleeder screw open, and pump away at the pedal. This allows for positive flow to move fluid out, yet enough resistance to slurp back very little fluid. I haven't yet had problems with this method.
 
I just want to chime in and say that I've got a little hand held vacuum pump (i bought it to check the vacuum stuff on my car) and it's useless as a brake bleeder IMHO. I followed the directions carefully, but it just doesn't seal well enough around the line, so you can't tell if the air is coming from the seal, or the line, and I worried air was being let back in. So I put the thing aside, and called an assistant, and had the brakes bled in a matter of minutes.
 
Not the one they sell at Checker, the line doesn't fit over the bleeder.
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I tried to buy the speedbleeders, but they didn't have a way of telling me what size I needed.
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-T
 
I bought the UNIVERSAL POWER BLEEDER from Motive Products. I tried it on a 2002 Honda, leaked and barely got enough pressure to work. I tried it on a '96 Nissan. Did not fit well enough to even try to pressurize. And a '94 Chrysler. Leaked badly on the Chrysler and never developed enough pressure to do anything. The cap seems too flexible to seal well. I now have an extra under cap gasket which may improve the leaks. Will try again next year. Maybe this works better for others.
 
quote:

I use a back check valve from an aquarium supply house ($2.95) and a one foot of clear tubing from Lowes'($0.20). Install valve correctly on hose, attach hose to valve and othe end to bleeder on the caliper. I put valve facing down in a catch can. Works great and for $3.20 it's tough to beat. ed

are there different sizes for different tubing?

i went to wal-mart and petsmart and they only had the check valves that fit on small aquarium tubing.

i really like the idea of pushing out the old fluid and at the same time filling the master cylinder, but if it doesn't seal well (and from the looks of the universal power bleeder it doesn't) then it seems like waste of money. the cap looks like it is secured by those two threaded hooks which use wing nuts.

if i'm wrong feel free to correct, but i would like a cap that fits exactly on the master cylinder (like the OEM cap), not just on top of it.

[ November 22, 2004, 08:21 PM: Message edited by: seotaji ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by acranox:
I just want to chime in and say that I've got a little hand held vacuum pump (i bought it to check the vacuum stuff on my car) and it's useless as a brake bleeder IMHO. I followed the directions carefully, but it just doesn't seal well enough around the line, so you can't tell if the air is coming from the seal, or the line, and I worried air was being let back in. So I put the thing aside, and called an assistant, and had the brakes bled in a matter of minutes.

Most wives will tolerate occasional helping if you let them be the one pushing the pedal. If you are going to mess around with the brakes more than they need, she may lose patience.
 
I have a catch basket that sits inside the master cylinder to prevent debris from damaging anything.

This is in a honda accord.

When I bleed the brakes, it needs to be removed and cleaned. Should I use brake cleaner? Is it safe to use on plastics? Any suggestions?
 
Brake fluid is nasty, aggressive stuff. Some people use it as a paint remover. Chances are if it resists brake fluid, it will resist brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is formulated not to damage brake parts.
 
I use a back check valve from an aquarium supply house ($2.95) and a one foot of clear tubing from Lowes'($0.20). Install valve correctly on hose, attach hose to valve and othe end to bleeder on the caliper. I put valve facing down in a catch can. Works great and for $3.20 it's tough to beat. ed
 
I have the Motive universal model and have used it with great success on a 1987 Honda CRX/DX, 2000 Toyota Solara SLE, and a 2004 Toyota RAV4L. First test with just air pressure, then when pressure holds (might take a couple of tries with adjusting the chain), release air pressure and fill with fluid and go. I also use it to fill the differentials on the RAV4L, I love it!

[ November 23, 2004, 03:19 PM: Message edited by: noodlerooney ]
 
With all of the tools I have to get the job done my long time favorite is the best. Dad used to use a Mason Jar half full with fluid. The jar had the lid and ring and a hose going into it. I belive it was aquiram hose. He would hook it up to the bleeder and pump. Close the bleeder check fluid at both ends and move to the next bleeder and repeat. You can drop $300 or more if you want to on brake bleeding equipment but for most shade tree's this simple set up or a mity vac get it done on the cheap with ease.
 
quote:

Originally posted by labman:
Brake fluid is nasty, aggressive stuff. Some people use it as a paint remover. Chances are if it resists brake fluid, it will resist brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is formulated not to damage brake parts.

brake cleaner is formulated to leave ZERO residue... I use it quite a bit as a general cleaner and it works great. I've never had it react with a surface and I find it works awesome removing Armor-all type products from plastics to be painted.

-Bret
 
is it ok to get the generic wal-mart brand brake cleaner spray? they should all be the same correct?

"get it done on the cheap with ease" is my motto.

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For stuff that is going to stick around my car very long, I insist on name brands, or at least something I have some data on showing I can trust it, ST. Brake cleaner is something I would cut corners on. I have stuck to Pennzoil and Prestone going beck to the 60's. Sometimes I wonder if they are as loyal to me. I despise Fram for betraying my trust.
 
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