When it gets REALLY cold in winter, my poor 1.5L Tercel wont heat up. Its not broken its always been like this, just a cool running engine. Even after driving 6 miles across town in traffic, very little heat. I recently changed the antifreeze. The 5 year old toyota red was thick but still sorta clear. After 1 month this crappy yellow green Peak has already turned dark camo green color in the overflow tank. When I changed it I put in a new 180*F thermostat thinking it would give more heat. I would have gotten the 192 but autozone said theyd have to order it and I didnt want to wait. Would a 192*F thermostat let the car heat up more and give more heat in the winter? Or will it just make it run hotter in the summer?
Higher Temp Thermostat = More heat in winter?
- Thread starter FL-400S
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I've got a 94 Corolla, and I know what your saying!!!!! Just doesn't have the heat in the winter. The stock thermostat rating on both these cars is 180, and I wouldn't deviate from that. Just wear extra cloths I guess. Sometimes when it is really cold out, and I have the heater on full blast coasting down a long grade, the coolent temp just plumits right to the bottom of the gauge. As soon as I get back into the throttle, it comes back up to normal. When I first bought the car, the stat was stuck open. You think your heat sucks now, WOW, I had no heat at all back then.
The way that a thermostat works is this,they fully open at a specified heat,180F or 192/195F.the lower the number,the sooner the thermostat will open.When the thermostat is a 180,it will open sooner and more often than a 195 will.Since it will open more often it will keep the antifreeze/water cooler,this may be good for summer use.
However,this will make for less heat in the winter,especially in colder areas.
A 180F thermostat may not be able to keep the interior as warm as a person may like.There is a 12-15 degree difference between the two ratings.While this may not seem like a great deal,if you live in an area that has quite cold weather,it can be a big difference.
A 192/195 thermostat will open less and at a higher temp.,this makes the antifreeze run hotter than the 180.In the winter,a 195 would make more heat.
It is the same basic principle as a thermostat in a home heating/cooling system.
A 192/195 degree thermostat will make a car run hotter than a 180 will.Check a parts house and see if there is an alternative 192/195 degree thermostat listed for your car.If there is,it should be safe to use it.
Your cooling system may need flushing.You may also have a blend door or a heat valve that may be sticking somewhere,this could have been a problem from the factory.
However,this will make for less heat in the winter,especially in colder areas.
A 180F thermostat may not be able to keep the interior as warm as a person may like.There is a 12-15 degree difference between the two ratings.While this may not seem like a great deal,if you live in an area that has quite cold weather,it can be a big difference.
A 192/195 thermostat will open less and at a higher temp.,this makes the antifreeze run hotter than the 180.In the winter,a 195 would make more heat.
It is the same basic principle as a thermostat in a home heating/cooling system.
A 192/195 degree thermostat will make a car run hotter than a 180 will.Check a parts house and see if there is an alternative 192/195 degree thermostat listed for your car.If there is,it should be safe to use it.
Your cooling system may need flushing.You may also have a blend door or a heat valve that may be sticking somewhere,this could have been a problem from the factory.
FWIW, GM and Chrysler use 195 degree stats in most of their cars & trucks, so my guess would be that it is safe for Toyota also. I would go ahead and try it and monitor gas mileage to see if the change in temp is affecting your engine sensors in any way. If the green color is changing already, I suspect the system is still dirty and more rust and scale are loosening.
Well, I think that this car might not get up to 180 in the coldest temps, so a new thermostat might not even help. OTOH, maybe it does, I dunno. I do know that the recirc thing is closed because its a manual lever that actually moves the flap and the air blows out harder. And yes Autozone said there is a 192 thermostat for this car available.
As for the fluid, maybe I should just leave the peak in for a couple more weeks then change it out for Xerex and get the 192 thermostat in at the same time? This car runs at average temp on the needle even on the hottest of summer days while idling. I checked it after putting the new 180 thermostat in about a month ago.
As for the fluid, maybe I should just leave the peak in for a couple more weeks then change it out for Xerex and get the 192 thermostat in at the same time? This car runs at average temp on the needle even on the hottest of summer days while idling. I checked it after putting the new 180 thermostat in about a month ago.
What you need is a radiator shutter attached to your radiator.
Does the Tercel have a heat valve? This could be a problem,it may be sticking.
My '87 Grand Am had a thermostat that could be changed with no tools in about 30 seconds, so I used to go from a 160 in the summer to a 195 in the winter. I even had a 180 I'd use in spring and fall sometimes. The 195 will make a big difference and is definitely worthwhile if the thermostat isn't too hard to change; I guarantee it!
I'd stick with the 180 in the summer though.
I'd stick with the 180 in the summer though.
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I just think that this small displacement engine is "overly cooled" with just the heater core having the blower run full tilt in -40 weather.
My 2.5 in my jeep is the same way. Now we don't see 40 below ..but if I'm idling and have the blower running on high ...I'll watch the guage drop below the thermostat theshold.
Typically the heater circuit in many cars runs full time and is basically the bypass circuit for the engine.
My 2.5 in my jeep is the same way. Now we don't see 40 below ..but if I'm idling and have the blower running on high ...I'll watch the guage drop below the thermostat theshold.
Typically the heater circuit in many cars runs full time and is basically the bypass circuit for the engine.
It took me about 3 hours by myself with a chiltons manual to do the antifreeze and thermostat, since Id never done either before. I think I have to drain antifreeze before removing the thermostat hose or Ill have a mess on the floor. Good thing this car has an engine block drain bolt.quote:
Originally posted by rpn453:
My '87 Grand Am had a thermostat that could be changed with no tools in about 30 seconds, so I used to go from a 160 in the summer to a 195 in the winter. I even had a 180 I'd use in spring and fall sometimes. The 195 will make a big difference and is definitely worthwhile if the thermostat isn't too hard to change; I guarantee it!
I'd stick with the 180 in the summer though.
My 92 Grand Am was much like your Tercel. Unlike the 87 Grand Am somebody mentioned, the thermostat was a PITA to change. A useless one at that. I think heater problems are in the control door and ventilation. After freezing for 5 years, I discovered I got a lot more heat on vent than heat.
My 02 Cavalier with the Ecotec throws much more heat, more than I can stand on my hands. I think the aluminum block heats up faster, but once hot, should be much like the HO Quad 4 in the Grand Am.
If the heater core is over cooling an engine in -40, the thermostat should be closed regardless of it setting. Check your air flow and control door.
Note, my 4 door Grand Am GT with the HO quad 4 and 5 speed was a nifty almost one of a kind car. Room for 4 adults, stuff for a weekend, and a dog, and 16 to one lbs/hp. It would lay rubber in third gear. With the fold down back seat, it could haul 8' 2 X 4's and even a 10' pipe with the windows and trunk lid closed. My teenage son and his friends loved his mother's Pontiac. Any one else here have one?
My 02 Cavalier with the Ecotec throws much more heat, more than I can stand on my hands. I think the aluminum block heats up faster, but once hot, should be much like the HO Quad 4 in the Grand Am.
If the heater core is over cooling an engine in -40, the thermostat should be closed regardless of it setting. Check your air flow and control door.
Note, my 4 door Grand Am GT with the HO quad 4 and 5 speed was a nifty almost one of a kind car. Room for 4 adults, stuff for a weekend, and a dog, and 16 to one lbs/hp. It would lay rubber in third gear. With the fold down back seat, it could haul 8' 2 X 4's and even a 10' pipe with the windows and trunk lid closed. My teenage son and his friends loved his mother's Pontiac. Any one else here have one?
I am not very familiar with the Toyota heating system but some vehicles have a valve located in the heater hose that allows the 'heat' to work.If you have a manual,it should say somewhere if your car has such.quote:
Originally posted by FL-400S:
I dont know what a heat valve is
Since your car does run so cool,it should be of little or no concern to use a 192/195 thermostat in the winter and possibley even in the summer.
In the summer,you would want to keep an eye on the temp for a while just to see how warm the engine gets.
Considering how cool it runs,a 192/195 thermostat in the summer should not hurt anything.
The Tercel heater core is an itsy-bitsy tiny thing.
I'd put a 192 in and enjoy the benefits.
Do you really think a 10 degree or so increase in coolant temp will hurt your engine? It may help.
I'd put a 192 in and enjoy the benefits.
Do you really think a 10 degree or so increase in coolant temp will hurt your engine? It may help.
I went to PepBoys and a local shop and neither had a 192 thermostat in stock, nor did they have them listed for my car. Ill just order it from AutoZone I guess. The "PepBoy" told me that putting in a 192 will confuse the computer and make the car run poorly! HA! I just shook my head and went and got a gallon of Zerex G-05. This should be better than Peak in my car, right? It doesnt say anything about Toyota on the label, only Ford and Dodge.
You need to make sure as to what kind of antifreeze you can use in your car.The days of putting in the green are gone.
Your owners manual should state what kind of antifreeze you need.
Heating,cooling systems are made with varying components now and some are NOT compatible with certain coolants.
Check your owners manual.
Your owners manual should state what kind of antifreeze you need.
Heating,cooling systems are made with varying components now and some are NOT compatible with certain coolants.
Check your owners manual.
Just throw a box in front of the radiator.
The reason I brought up the coolant is because of the different types out there.Cooling systems that call for ethylene glycol may not be able to use the newer coolants.I personally would stay with the Peak or its equivalent.
Read the article below.
The full article can be found at the link provided.
http://popularmechanics.mondosearch...uery=coolant&hiword=COOLAND+coolant+COOLANTS+
Picking the right antifreeze
Most antifreeze is made with a base chemical called ethylene glycol. Green dye is used in most brands, except Toyota, which uses red. Extended-life antifreezes, also with green dye, were on the market until two years ago. But the newest entry is a superlong-life antifreeze with a totally new rust/corrosion inhibitor developed originally for heavy-duty use (such as trucks). The original, from Texaco (used as original equipment by GM), is called Dex-Cool. The latest is Prestone Long Life 5/100. These two are orange.
The rust/corrosion inhibitors vary, but if antifreeze is green, assume that its life in a car with a lot of aluminum components is two years or 30,000 miles–whichever comes first. You can push that to a third year if the engine is all cast-iron. "Toyota Red" is a specific formula, but if you drain it, you can replace it with any name-brand American formula. Here again, the replacement interval is two years or 30,000 miles.
The inhibitors in orange antifreeze are not chemically compatible with what's in green or red. However, if you have at least 5000 miles on the green, the chemical bond with the aluminum components is "solid." So if you want to get extended life with a coolant installation, just do a thorough drain-by-dilution, at least three times. The coolant you drain out should be virtually clear, like the color of water. If it's still green, you have to repeat the process until it's all out.
With the radiator and reservoir drained, pour in the amount of antifreeze necessary–there should be plenty of room–and then top up with water. Follow the procedures we've discussed to ensure a full system.
[ September 10, 2004, 01:53 AM: Message edited by: motorguy222 ]
Read the article below.
The full article can be found at the link provided.
http://popularmechanics.mondosearch...uery=coolant&hiword=COOLAND+coolant+COOLANTS+
Picking the right antifreeze
Most antifreeze is made with a base chemical called ethylene glycol. Green dye is used in most brands, except Toyota, which uses red. Extended-life antifreezes, also with green dye, were on the market until two years ago. But the newest entry is a superlong-life antifreeze with a totally new rust/corrosion inhibitor developed originally for heavy-duty use (such as trucks). The original, from Texaco (used as original equipment by GM), is called Dex-Cool. The latest is Prestone Long Life 5/100. These two are orange.
The rust/corrosion inhibitors vary, but if antifreeze is green, assume that its life in a car with a lot of aluminum components is two years or 30,000 miles–whichever comes first. You can push that to a third year if the engine is all cast-iron. "Toyota Red" is a specific formula, but if you drain it, you can replace it with any name-brand American formula. Here again, the replacement interval is two years or 30,000 miles.
The inhibitors in orange antifreeze are not chemically compatible with what's in green or red. However, if you have at least 5000 miles on the green, the chemical bond with the aluminum components is "solid." So if you want to get extended life with a coolant installation, just do a thorough drain-by-dilution, at least three times. The coolant you drain out should be virtually clear, like the color of water. If it's still green, you have to repeat the process until it's all out.
With the radiator and reservoir drained, pour in the amount of antifreeze necessary–there should be plenty of room–and then top up with water. Follow the procedures we've discussed to ensure a full system.
[ September 10, 2004, 01:53 AM: Message edited by: motorguy222 ]
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