What,s the best undercoating

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This is where Texaco rustproofing shines. It is not thin like BlazerT reports with his Krown treatment. Plus Texaco rustproofing seeps into the rust scale, helping to protect the car from further corrosion. I've usaed it on cars that already started corroding and it does help. It doesn't trap corrosive environment to cause poultice corrosion as do rubberized coatings.

I was under the hood of my car the other day and played with the cosmoline on the engine. It was brittle and peeled off cleanly where I picked at it. I do not recommend it for long-term rustproofing.
 
What about using the bed liner stuff?
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Any thing bad using this stuff on the under carriage / wheel wells?
 
I had the inside of a Suburban coated with this stuff (About 6 to 8 inches up from the floor. Not the doors.) after I had patched up extensive rust. After several years rust started again under the coating. It was/is quiet though. Got rid of a lot of annoying body squeaks.
Terry
 
Whatever they put under the Jeep Cherokee. Have you ever paid attention to one? To me it appears that this stuff is probably for sound but it holds up for years and you never see a Cherokee rust (from underneath). I haven't paid much attention under my current vehicles to see what the factory put on but from what I remember it didn't look like much, just paint.
 
If you want to rust proof the underside correctly, dont screw around.

wash/degrease the underside and buy Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. Paint the whole underside of the car/truck. Then topcoat with Chasis black epoxy paint. The encpsulator will adhere to anything and coat/neutralize any rust. The Chasis black is a hard chip resistant epoxy paint. You can use aerosol or better paint them on with a brush.

I do all my cars when new. Dont use undercoating, that stuff will fail and you will have water trapped under it when it does.

another trick it so use 3M seam seal on all theoverlapping surfaces/seams.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/
 
Painted on rustproofing does not last in colder salt laden climates and more often then not seals oil from getting to the rust.
 
I have ziebart do both of my cars, seems pretty good bottom side looks like they hit everything, very thick stuff, they also drill all the body panels and spray the inside with something, The reason I went with them is because of the warranty, if it rusts from the inside out they will pay for the repair. I try to keep my car touched up very well on the outside so rust from the outside in shouldnt be a problem. I guess its just a piece of mind also. Anyone have any experience with ziebart on a car they had done and owned for a very long time?
 
I live in the rust belt. I ran my last 2 Pontiacs 10 years as is from the factory, not kept washed, and no rust at all.
 
I wonder how many other people dont wash their cars in the winter and have no rust? I thought that was funny when a lady at work said she doesnt wash her car in the winter and never had rust problems! lol. I thought no way, she must not keep her car long enough. Anyone else do follow this theory?
 
I don't think washing a car is the big deal people make it out to be in the rust belt. The car is clean for maybe a day or so, then it gets wet again, and stays wet for a week or so until it gets washed again. If the car stays dry - whether it's washed or not - it's not the salt per se, but the moisture in presence of the salt that corrodes a car, so either way the car will not corrode on dry days.

For a few years I took a survey of how many days my car got wet by driving through salt, even if it was just a single puddle. I averaged 40-50 days a year. The point I took from that survey is that it doesn't take a whole lot of exposure to salt to corrode a car. If you can avoid those few days of salt your car body could last much longer.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 2003TRD:
I have ziebart do both of my cars, seems pretty good bottom side looks like they hit everything, very thick stuff, they also drill all the body panels and spray the inside with something, The reason I went with them is because of the warranty, if it rusts from the inside out they will pay for the repair. I try to keep my car touched up very well on the outside so rust from the outside in shouldnt be a problem. I guess its just a piece of mind also. Anyone have any experience with ziebart on a car they had done and owned for a very long time?

I had Ziebart to undercoat a new Suburban in 1985. They drilles holes and sprayed a coating inside the doors. My doors rusted from the inside out because the holes were plugged.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Kestas:
I don't think washing a car is the big deal people make it out to be in the rust belt. The car is clean for maybe a day or so, then it gets wet again, and stays wet for a week or so until it gets washed again. If the car stays dry - whether it's washed or not - it's not the salt per se, but the moisture in presence of the salt that corrodes a car, so either way the car will not corrode on dry days.

For a few years I took a survey of how many days my car got wet by driving through salt, even if it was just a single puddle. I averaged 40-50 days a year. The point I took from that survey is that it doesn't take a whole lot of exposure to salt to corrode a car. If you can avoid those few days of salt your car body could last much longer.


But I don't know of a single person that can just not drive on those days. We all need to get to work and back whether it's snowing raining or whatever.

-T
 
Blazer, Krown is not an 'undercoating'. It is a rust-preventing chemical regimen which prevents rust from the inside out. Hence, it's liquid-like nature when applied. However, the tackiness of the substance provides it's lasting (12 months) effect. This allows for creep into all crevices.

The standard issue undercoating is usually the black tar-like stuff found at auto parts stores that serve as a surface-coating/rust preventative measure only.

I just had mine done yesterday....for the 8th year in a row.
 
Your mileage may vary but this is what I do with my Citroen 2CV, which is a toy and not a daily driver. The frame on a 2CV is like a box and has an inner hull that really is inaccessible and 2CVs are famous for rotting from the inside out. Every spring when I get the car out for the year and every fall I use a rustproofing gun I got from eastwood and fill the cavity as well as I can with Eureka Fluid Film (another lanolin product). As for the outside of the frame, I coated it with 3 coats of Por-15. I then painted the top (which is also the car of the car) Por-15 Chassis Coat Black and now I have a very durable floor coating. On the bottom, a friend of mine who puts in spray in bed liners did the bottom of the car. This solution might break down over time in a vehicle driven in all bad weather, but I think that it's a good way to try to fight rust.
 
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