adding a drain plug to a 4L60E

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Win

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One of the great annoyances (to me) of GM cars is the lack of a drain plug on the transmission. I drain and fill the tranny pan when I change oil, and use of a hand pump, while much better than leaving old fluid in the trans pan, is a messy undertaking.

GM knows how to put a drain plug on transmissions, because the 4L80E in one of my Jaguars has a drain.

While the pan was off of my 96 S10 AWD Blazer, I purchased a Motormite transmission drain plug kit. A suitable place was located at the rear of the pan where it would clear all of the electrical bits, and the pan was drilled and the plug installled.

Unfortunately, it projected to high to clear the bits on the bottom of the tranny.

The plug kit was removed, the securing nut that went inside the pan was wire welded to the outside of the pan instead, and everything was reinstalled without further problem. An extra advantage to this arrangement is that the drain opening is now flush with the pan, facilitating a better drain. The disadvantage is that the drain hangs lower, however, I would have to tear a considerable portion of the vehicle away before the drain plug is in danger ....

Tranny pan drains are much easier with a plug. Shame on GM for not spending a few extra dollars to make service of their vehicles more straightforward.
 
I agree for those of us working on our own cars a drain plug is a good thing. But for the automakers it's a bad thing. More problems are caused by people screwing up a fluid change then just leaving the fluid in, at least for the first 100,000 miles.

-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by benjamming:
One point of clarification: Jaguar is Ford not GM.

Even subsequent to the purchase of Jaguar Cars, Ltd., by Ford Motor Co., many Jaguars continued to be built with GM transmissions. Just ask the owner of any Xj12, V12 XJS, or XJR.
 
For those with GM auto trans without a drain, you have some choices. One would be to install an aftermarket drain plug kit like the B & M kit for less than $9.00. Caution: when you unscrew the brass plug, be sure to use a wrench on the large bolt to keep it from unscrewing. Also, because of the height of the plug inside the pan, it does not allow all the fluid to drain out. Better solution for those with a GM 4L60E without a drain plug! Use a Silverado ATF pan! It has a plug and it holds about 1 qt more fluid. Caution: it requires a filter with a longer neck to reach the bottom of the deeper pan. Note also that the drain plugs come in two varieties- one is Torx and the other is a regular hex bolt. Both will work but the hex bolt is more convenient.
 
I was going to post about the Silverado pan for the 4L60E, but when I ran the part number I found a note stating that the pan no longer came with a drain plug. There is a chance I ran an old part number, so check with your parts counter person before committing. I ran #24215535.
 
My 2004 Silverado 4.8/auto tranny doesn't have the drain plug.

Since I revel in various lubricating fluids cascading down my arms and splashing into my hair and, since I'm gonna' remove the pan each ATF change to clean it out and replace the filter, I kinda' figger' that a drain plug may be more trouble than what it's worth.
 
One point of clarification: Jaguar is Ford not GM.
I agree with you on the drain plug. My 94 Grand Am of course doesn't have one. It would make it less messy when removing the pan to change the filter.
 
Reality to EARTH- you can still get a nice stream of ATF running down your forearm and dripping off your elbow EVEN with the drain installed. You just don't get the sudden water fall effect that you do when you remove the last few bolts from the full trans pan. To 9C1 above and others- remember there are several pans available. It may just be the one part number you checked that was dropped. GM had several pans- a deep pan, a deep pan with Torx drain bolt, and a deep pan with a hex style bolt. So check for multiple trans pans.
 
The 4L60E tranny pan in my 98 chevy truck didn't come with a drainplug. I ordered a tranny pan for a 99 and up chevy truck with this same trans that had a drain plug. I think I only paid about $50.00 for it. It was well worth it.

Wayne
 
Devils Advocate?

Perhaps thinks the addition of the drain plug will be incentive for those tooo cheap to replace there Pan Filter and Gasket at fluid change time?

After reading this board I find it infinetly amusing how many people neglect that little strainer
smile.gif
 
In reply to Parker Dean, I recently had my Reaction Sun Shell go out on my 02' Chevy Silverado, with only 62,000 miles on it,which totally ruined my trans. I was wanting to know if this could have been caused by a recent transmission fluid change only a week prior and if not, is there any way that GM could be held responsible. I could use any help you or anyone else could give me. Thanks
 
Outrun, the addition of a drain pan plug has never made me want to NOT change the filter screen on my 4L60E. However the seal that came on the screen that was 'epoxied' to the trans did make me not change the filter once. See the related post in this section, page 2, called 'Replacing the trans filter seal'. Outrun, has having a oil drain plug on the crankcase of your vehicle ever make you not change the oil filter?
 
I use a MitiVac hand pump with about 4 ft of plastic tubing, go down through the trans dipstick tube and pump out most all of what's in the pan. Then remove the pan. Beats the "oil down the elbow" routine anyway.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 9c1:
I was going to post about the Silverado pan for the 4L60E, but when I ran the part number I found a note stating that the pan no longer came with a drain plug. There is a chance I ran an old part number, so check with your parts counter person before committing. I ran #24215535.

B&M makes a cast aluminum pan for the 4L60E with a drain plug that increases oil capacity about 3 quarts (BMA70294). It's also available for the 4L80E and several other transmissions.
 
speaking of drain bolt- mine will not come off. even with a six sided socket, it is not striped. anyone know of any trick I can use to get the bolt out?
 
That is why the pan with the hex drain plug is no longer available. When they assembled it they tightened it too tight. So in typical corporate fashion, instead of applying less torque GM decided to eliminate the drain plug. No drain plug -- no problem.
Take the pan down the old fashioned way, and when it is off use the blue flame wrench. Heat the pan around the bolt and it will come out.
 
Drain bolt is a great idea. Much less messy. You can get the tiny amount of ATF remaining, out of the pan by removing it when you change the filter.
GM has some auto transmisions now that don't have a dipstick, or any method to check the level at all! You think they worry about a drain plug? A real inline filter like some Volvos have would be great, too.
 
TBULLOCK, Changeing out your fluid did not cause any damage to your tranny. Has changeing your engine oil ever caused it to fail? I work for GM and it has been my experince that most of the truck automatics 4L60E and 4L80E usualy fail like clock work for most users at 60,000-80,000 miles.

The models with sealed hub with bearing sealed into them also fail about the same time frame. The EGR and BCM Brake Control Module are also on the same life cycle.

Their are exceptions so no need for you die hard Cheby fan to chime in with how your transmission has 200,000 on it and has never been touched!

The cars with these transmissions seem to do much better. I think some issues are towing in OD and chevy's stupid 100,000 OCI for ATF. It is usualy something simple in the valve body or the TC that screw the works up!
 
Since my 98 now has a drain plug, I drop and refill the tranny fluid about every 6,000 miles so hopefully I can extend the life of this trans for awhile. I don't remember when I last changed the filter but I have changed the filter twice in 71,500 miles. My tranny still shifts good so I guess we will see.

Wayne
 
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