torque for spark plugs
- Thread starter nicholas
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My old 93 Civic called for between 11~14 lb.ft.
Just my 2cents but when ever I put spark plugs in a aluminum head I always coat the threads with graphite anti-seize,believe me it will make your life alot easier next time.As for the torque I agree with JAKEBRAKE 1/8 past snug........keval85
Yup. Use a high temperature anti-seize. Good point for those that might not be familiar with this, because it's not a joyous occasion when your threads come out with the spark plug the next time you try to change them. ALWAYS use anti-seize (or grease is OK for low temps) on aluminum threads.
I personally like to use a torque wrench on spark plugs. 12 lb-ft sounds pretty good.
Aluminum head, tapered seat...try 1/8 turn past the point of firm contact between the seat and the head. If they have a gasket then try about 10 to 12 lb/ft.
nicholas
My Honda V-6 specifies 13 ft-lbs. Honda included most of the routine torque specs in my Owner's Manual.
Stay safe.
My Honda V-6 specifies 13 ft-lbs. Honda included most of the routine torque specs in my Owner's Manual.
Stay safe.
I've always heard 13lb-ft for a Honda.
But you have to use a little discretion. Unless you own a really high end torque wrench, it might not be that accurate.
For example, I have a Husky wrench, 10-100lb-ft. But the specs say something like it's accurate to within about 1 lb-ft, but at the ends of the range, it's like +/- 3 lb-ft. So Basically, setting it at 13, could give me 10-16.
Not to mention I've abused my wrench by using it as a breaker bar once, so who knows!
Too tight, and you'll strip the head, too loose, and it'll back out, and your engine will start missing....but at least you can retighten it then.
--Peter
But you have to use a little discretion. Unless you own a really high end torque wrench, it might not be that accurate.
For example, I have a Husky wrench, 10-100lb-ft. But the specs say something like it's accurate to within about 1 lb-ft, but at the ends of the range, it's like +/- 3 lb-ft. So Basically, setting it at 13, could give me 10-16.
Not to mention I've abused my wrench by using it as a breaker bar once, so who knows!
Too tight, and you'll strip the head, too loose, and it'll back out, and your engine will start missing....but at least you can retighten it then.
--Peter
nicholas,
What is your Civic's trim level? I am going to check my owner's manual when I get home.
What is your Civic's trim level? I am going to check my owner's manual when I get home.
You don't need a really high end torque wrench, just a couple that are decent quality and cover the ranges you need. I think my little 3/8" drive is 10-250lb-in, while my 1/2" drive is 10-250lb-ft. They're both Mastercraft Pro series, and were both under $100 each.
According to my owner's manual (97 DX hatch), the torque should be 13lb-ft. All 96-00 Civic CX, DX, LX should be the same because they have the same engine (D16Y7).
Tightening torque:
13lb-ft
Specifications:
NGK: ZFR5F-11
Denso: KJ16CR-L11
Spark plug gap:
1.1mm (0.04 in) +0/ -0.1mm
The information is in the maintenance section of your owner's manual.
[ July 23, 2004, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: Babaloo ]
Tightening torque:
13lb-ft
Specifications:
NGK: ZFR5F-11
Denso: KJ16CR-L11
Spark plug gap:
1.1mm (0.04 in) +0/ -0.1mm
The information is in the maintenance section of your owner's manual.
[ July 23, 2004, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: Babaloo ]
RPN, you are correct. And, don't forget the obvious: you can use your inch/lb wrench in this application by multiplying the 13 lbs. x 12 = 156 inch lbs.. This puts you in the middle of the wrench scale, which gives better accuracy.
Some people reduce the torque value 10% +/- when using a lubricant such as anti-seize.
Finally, this application isn't as finicky as head bolts. I'm sure that many gorilla armed mechanics over torque plugs all the time. You just have to be a bit careful with aluminum blocks.
Some people reduce the torque value 10% +/- when using a lubricant such as anti-seize.
Finally, this application isn't as finicky as head bolts. I'm sure that many gorilla armed mechanics over torque plugs all the time. You just have to be a bit careful with aluminum blocks.
My '03 Civic manual calls for 13 lbs. Anti-seize is a must.
Why is this so hard for people? If it is a gasket seat plug, 1/8 turn past hand tight is not nearly enough to crush the gasket. Just put the plug in by hand, thread it in until it doesn't turn any more. Hook up your ratchet and tighten it lightly until it won't turn any more with light to moderate force. That way, you know that the gasket is crushed all the way and the plug can then remove heat from the combustion chamber. You can easily feel this procedure when installing plugs. No torque wrench, no turn angle BS to mess with.
Good advice. I'm going to change in this week-end
The spark plug manuf. usually has instructions of something like 'turn 1/16 of a turn after seating' if no gasket style. Read the factory manual or Haynes or Chiltons manual for a ft-lb spec. Your local library will have copys in the reference section, if y9u don't want to purchase them.
from what i have been taught you should use the lower or upper 10% of the torque wrenches settings. if you have ever dropped your torque wrench it is out of calibration (if you dropped a micrometer would you think it is still accurate?)
on spark plugs i always use anti-sieze and go 1/8 to 1/4 past contact.
You should definitely use it, but you could also verify whether the torque specification is for dry or lubricated threads. I've always done them with anti-seize. Maybe I'm overtorquing them? It probably wouldn't matter since it's such low torque given the thread size though. I've never had any problems, but it's something I'll check for next time I'm doing plugs.quote:
Originally posted by sxg6:
suprised so many people here recommend anti seize. i know a lot of people that dont use it because it acts as a lubricant and can cause you to over-torque the plugs. i dont know whether or not to use it next time i change mine
The other concern with it is that you are placing it between the plug and the head, and it will interfere with heat transfer away from the plug.quote:
Originally posted by sxg6:
suprised so many people here recommend anti seize. ..... can cause you to over-torque the plugs.
It will act as a lubricant on the threads and you will need to lower the torque applied.
I have always used it and always will. Almost any fastener you may ever want to loosen should get anti-sieze.
Same debate with lug nuts. I use it there too. For them, I torque to the lower value given for the range. I have seen more of them break from rusting than I have seen loosen from Anti-sieze.
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RIGHT! The bigger mess a seized or galled thread, the more important the antiseize is. There may be a worse place to have trouble than a spark plug in an aluminum head, but I can't think of one right now.
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