How often do you replace distributor cap....

[Amkeer]

and rotor? I was working on my 4-runner this weekend and for the first time since buying the truck 3 years ago I pulled the cap. Its the original cap with over 80,000 miles!

The contacts were pitted and some of them had chips. You could see that the rotor was oxidized!

I am amazed the vehicle is running as smooth as it is.

I cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the cap since the dealership isn't open Sundays. I will replace the parts this week.

It amazes me that the distributor caps are not more of an issue with the vehicles that have them. I understand the newer vehicles don't have them but wouldn't the dealership recommend replacement before 80,000 miles? Is it an often overlooked part that doesn't get replaced when it should and leads to more parts being purchased to solve issues such as gas economy, idle, etc.?

Just curious on what others thought about this.


Daily Drives
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30.
ODO 5300 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 82300 Miles.

 

[DJStillman]

Most auto manufacturers suggest that a full tuneup be performed every 2 years or 30k miles. That includes replacing the cap, rotor, plugs, usually wires, and nowadays, more often the O2 sensor. For most cars, that would end up costing around $100 if you use the good brands.

I have found that lack of tuneup will lead to poor idle, crappy mileage, and less power when you need it, or delay in getting the power.

Also remember to get some fuel injector cleaner, and some throttle body cleaner, and run that through. That really helps.

 

[Amkeer]

I already replaced the plugs at 60,000 and again at 75,000 because I wanted to put the oem NGK back in. The throttle body was cleaned prior to my last oil change at 81,000 by me. It was pretty gummed up and took a can and a half of cleaner plus numerous rags to clean. The injectors were cleaned at 75,000 at the dealer and I have also done maintenance doses of fuel adds..When this injector cleaning was done I mentioned the cap to the dealer and they said its only replaced when its needed.

The same thing with o2 sensors, only when you get check engine light.

 

[DJStillman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Amkeer:
When this injector cleaning was done I mentioned the cap to the dealer and they said its only replaced when its needed.

The same thing with o2 sensors, only when you get check engine light.

---

95% of the time, a failing O2 sensor will not give you a check engine light. The only way you will know is with an ODB reader to see the error codes, or if your gas mileage declines.

With as bad as most dealerships are these days, I would not ask them how to set my clock, much less if something goes wrong elsewhere in the car. For example, your fluid is old, and it is causing you to shift hard. They will try to sell you a $4000 tranny.

They do not train as hard as they used to, and they care even less.

 

[Amkeer]

I would have to agree DJ!

I am trying to troubleshoot a gas MPG issue. I get great mileage on the highway 21-23 MPG but in the city its 12! My mpg in the city was normally 15.

 

[Amkeer]

Hehehehehe,just found out I get free replacement of o2 sensor, labor & parts at 80,000 according to my manual and since its a misprint.

Thanks toyota

As far as the cap and rotor no mention of replacement. Spark plugs every 30,000 miles or 3 years.

 

[got boost?]

I've usually just cleaned the contacts and rotor with a small wire brush every year. I've had a cap last up to 100k miles before I decided to change it just because. getting the corrosion off is the biggest thing, though a new new set never hurts.

 

[Robbie Alexander]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Amkeer:
and rotor? I was working on my 4-runner this weekend and for the first time since buying the truck 3 years ago I pulled the cap. Its the original cap with over 80,000 miles! *-*-*--*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-

---

I've gone very well into the 100K's
But you don't wanna do this, it can degrade other things and help cause the O2 and the Cat to go out sooner.
The thing to do is change them every 30K or less and better at 20-25K IMHO, Best is every 10-12K but the cost may not justify.
As far as plug wires, I suggest MSD; super people and super product, Although I had to get use to the towers, and I dont like them, I think they are worth it in my application in the long run,
I had one come loose and dangle (lay on) my Exhaust manifold and it is still in use with a little discoloration.

 

[Robbie Alexander]

quote:

---

Originally posted by DJStillman:
*-*-*-QUOTE]95% of the time, a failing O2 sensor will not give you a check engine light. The only way you will know is with an ODB reader to see the error codes, or if your gas mileage declines. *-*-*-

---

You can still check Voltage. And I think how it flutters on Start-up too. But the Check Engine Light will usually go off, but even with the reader, this does not mean it is the sole reason, or even the reason, there are still other things that coulda triggered it. But you are right, better to trust the reader and not the dealer.

 

[Robbie Alexander]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Amkeer:
I would have to agree DJ!

I am trying to troubleshoot a gas MPG issue. I get great mileage on the highway 21-23 MPG but in the city its 12! My mpg in the city was normally 15.

---

Ahhh haaaa, this did happen to me.
A couple times.
Once at 80,000 and it was the CAT and the O2s1.
After this (years) the dealer told me they had a lot of problems with my year and model.
Later on it was the O2s1 and then 24K later the CAT again.
Then later the CAT again.
Then Just last few days, the CAT again, although the OBII reader said the O2s1.

Each time my milage started the same way. That's just how it starts for me. Sometimes last a long time and others only 5-10 fill-ups.

 

[cousincletus]

I change my cap & rotor at 60,000 just to be safe since the parts are cheap and easy to reach. The owners manual (1999 Jeep Cherokee) says to change plugs at 30,000, wires at 60,000 but says nothing about the cap & rotor. I also change the belt and hoses at 60,000. Just not worth the possible damage to the engine if they break on the road as the parts are cheap.

 

[got boost?]

cats are killed they don't die, something else is/was wrong with the car. either severe misfires or bad injector. for somereason it's running too rich and overheating the cat. you'll continue to replace cats unless you fix the root cause.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Robbie Alexander:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Amkeer:
I would have to agree DJ!

I am trying to troubleshoot a gas MPG issue. I get great mileage on the highway 21-23 MPG but in the city its 12! My mpg in the city was normally 15.

---

Ahhh haaaa, this did happen to me.
A couple times.
Once at 80,000 and it was the CAT and the O2s1.
After this (years) the dealer told me they had a lot of problems with my year and model.
Later on it was the O2s1 and then 24K later the CAT again.
Then later the CAT again.
Then Just last few days, the CAT again, although the OBII reader said the O2s1.

Each time my milage started the same way. That's just how it starts for me. Sometimes last a long time and others only 5-10 fill-ups.

---

 

[JohnnyO]

Back when I used to own cars that had distributors

, I'd change the plugs yearly and the cap and rotor every other year. I ended up buying NAPA parts because they had brass fittings instead of the OE aluminum stuff.

 

[Drew99GT]

I have the original cap and rotor on my 94 Corolla. The resistance was within Haynes manual spec. so I just cleaned off the carbon tracks etc. Changing cap and rotor too often is a complete waste of time and money. Check the resistance, clean, and call it good. Same with wires. Why buy new ones if the factory ones are still good. That was the case with my Corolla as well. I spent 70 bucks at the dealer for new ones, checked the resistance of them compared to the old ones, and they were the same.

 

[Amkeer]

Thanks for the response guys!

I agree with all the responses. I will normally pull cap and clean contacts every 20-30k miles. It also allows me to visually inspect for burning. I think the best thing is to replace the rotor and cap at 50000 miles but it wouldn't hurt to replace sooner.

I think my o2 sensor is bad too!

I will contact the dealer about my free replacement.

I will check on the cost of wires while there.

Anyone ever clean and check the charcoal canister?

 

[Amkeer]

Robbie what make vehicle did you have the issues with?

 

[Robbie Alexander]

TO ::Amkeer :
Toyota TACO 2.4 Std. Reg Cab 1997.
--------------------------------------
The o2 and cat were operating under the threshold or whatever and I use a whole bunch of fuel cleaner and got along for a long long long while. Not cost effective, But I had to try.
Then they fried. Then replaced, and the replacement CAT was !@#$ (not good), and the one after that the same. The guy told me on about the third one that this was a problem he said from my year truck with usually 80K, and I mentioned it started at 80K, anyway he put a "diesel" on one and it held til my Thermos dies, but does not show on the guage. After replacing the thermos and re welding the cat about 7 times it held another 40 or so K (total about 60K)... The new guy, the only one knew how to weld here in Houston which I found, said he could replace it with a little bettr than what I had for about the same money or one Much better for 25-30 more, I opted for the better, and after looking at it, it looked more like the OEM maybe more HD (welded all over from the factory and thick steel), instead of the Mickey Mouse one That everyone else had. His was from CATCO I think, I got the number someplace, and all the other shops I forgot but they all had the same cats worth about 20.00 each.

Originally posted by got boost?:
[QB] cats are killed they don't die, something else is/was wrong with the car. either severe misfires or bad injector. for somereason it's running too rich and overheating the cat. you'll continue to replace cats unless you fix the root cause.
Well I'm of the opinion that its both.
They do WEAR out, just like anything else.
You put Miles, and they do wear out. Some are better than others. They are like a filter in a way and absorb waste gas and such and thus will eventually "get full" and need replacement. Anyone have proof otherwise?
Yes, you are correct and saying that they just don't keep going out, but they do just age. Yes, I'd agree usually something causes them to suddenly go out, but they AGE and get Full of waste and need to be changed... NO engine is 100.00 perfect, and unless one is, and even if one is, it's got to wear out just from the fact that it burns like a light bulb (the Catalyst) and must wear out - ie from use.
I have been told and it has been said, that the factory Toyota Cats have much more CAT material than the aftermarket ones, and usually last longer. Bla Bla Bla. The fact is, that Toyota told me that my truck etc has a history of doing what mine does and I think at 1-2 years later they went to DUAL cats, and that solved the DESIGN flaw... just what I been told.

 

[Amkeer]

The caps do last a while. I will have to agree with Kestas that the gap will widen with cleaning and mileage.

Robbie thats a drag about the cat issue. Knock on wood I have yet to have one go bad. I don't use additives that much and maybe that contributes to cats extended life.

 

[Kestas]

When caps were $3-4, I didn't think twice about replacing them at specified intervals. But now that they cost $20-30, I can see why it has become an issue.

 

[Kestas]

It's not the deposits that requires a cap/rotor change, it's the gap. As the parts rack up the miles the cap/rotor gap increases, leaving less spark at the spark plug. This weakness won't mean much on an otherwise well-tuned automobile. But if another problem should crop up (i.e., fouled plugs, bad fuel mixture, old ignition wires), the additive effect of these weaknesses may result in a sick running engine.