Jack points?

[Drew99GT]

Where are the best points on a unibody front wheel drive car (94 Toyota Corolla) to jack up the car and then put it on jack stands? Obviously behind each front wheel and in front of each rear wheel under the rocker panels where the factory scissor jack fits. But then where do you put the jack stands? I've heard mixed feelings about using all the suspension cross members under the front of the car.

Reason I ask is I just had the B*stard up in the air to work on it for the 1st time since I got it. I tried on one side using the exact spot for the scissor jack with my floor jack and then placed the stand a little behind the jack under the rocker panel. That clearly pushed my floor pan up!!! Doh. So on the other side I just put the jack a little further under the car next to the lip that your supposed to use for the scissor jack. That just bent the crap out of my floor pan

I bashed it back down with a rubber mallet so my floor is flat again in the passenger compartment. Man I'm pissed at myself, but the stupid haynes manual doesn't even tell you proper floor jack points, just the spots where the scissor jack goes for changing a flat. Everyone knows you can use those, but where else? Thanks guys.. just had to vent a bit. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Oh, and do you think I damaged the frame or anything by jacking where I did?

[ May 26, 2003, 06:20 PM: Message edited by: Drew99GT ]

 

[got boost?]

control arm, ctrl arm mount point, ball joint, subframe. basically any area that looks like it can support the weight. scissor jack points are the best places for the jack stands.

 

[9c1]

Some owner's manuals will show where to support the vehicle, beyond the jacking points. I am not sure about Toyota manuals though, but it might be worth a look.

 

[GSV]

This is one thing i hate about my wife's Subaru legacy. Same story, screwed up the rocker panels (you can't see it but it sucks).

It makes me love frames and slid axles!

 

[TheTanSedan]

Some unibodys are strong (old Chryslers for example), some are not.

Stop by and see service writer at dealer to copy the Chassis Service Manual page for you that details jacking/lift/towing strong points; just to be certain. These points may be different, and there may be instructions about doors or hood/trunk being closed.

 

[labman]

The Tan Sedan may have the quickest solution. I think I put a block of wood with a groove in it over the lip when I used another jack at the jacking point on my Grand Am. A board on the jack anywhere helps spread the load around a little. Usually around the engine mounts or a frame anchors is sturdy enough to support the car.

Your comments on the Haynes manual confirms my suspicion that they aren't much better than those useless Chiltons. You can get a real factory shop manual at http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/ for about what a Chilton or Hayes costs. Somebody here tipped me off to that last month. I recently got one for my old truck for $13. They have much more detail that you may need than the auto parts store books.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

a little off subject but my van has a jack point on the side of the car, now the side of that car where i jack it is dented.

as long as u have a solid surface, mainly the chassis, u can jack up on it. at least have some jack stands to be safe. i had my episodes of jacks failing on me, but the jack stands saved me.

in ur owners manual they have the reconmended jack points. have fun =) happy holiday.

 

[Drew99GT]

OK guys, I just talked to a guy at a Toyota parts department. He said to ONLY use the spots where the factory scissor jack fits, even for a hydraulic floor jack. He wouldn't specifically say to not use other sturdy spots like the front suspension subframe. So what do you guys think? Do any of you all use crossmembers/subframes on unibody vehicles for your floor jack? I tried to get both the floor jack and jack stands to fit at the factory recomended spots, but it just ain't happenin. And if your only supposed to use those spots, how do you get jack stands under there? I know I'm splitting hairs over this, but hey, I'm anal ( I am a memberr here

) I just don't want to bend my front subframe or something!! Thanks guys.

 

[labman]

I don't blame you for wanting a good answer on this. There are much worse things to bend than the floor pan.

Best I can do is say I put jacks and jack stands under anything that looked sturdy on my Phoenix, Grand AM, and my daughter's Baretta with no noticeable problems. Of course, there isn't too much down there that really does look sturdy.

In place of the Baretta, they have an Insight and a 78 Jeep Wagoneer now. No sense having 2 things the same. The Insight comes with an eyebolt you can screw into a hole for lack of anything else solid enough to hook on to.

 

[mph]

When I need to put one or both front corners on jackstands, I use a floor jack on the front center mounting point illustrated in my service manual. This appears to be a crossmember that serves as the lower mounting point for the radiator and condensor.
Then I put the jackstands on the reinforced side jacking points (where you would use the scissor jack).

Your car probably has a front center jacking point of some kind as well, although not necessarily in the same place as my Honda. As suggested above, a mechanic should be able to tell you where.

 

[Mike_dup1]

Each vehicle has its jack points and if you should happen to put the jack or stand in the incorrect location, damage of serious injury is possible.

Also some cars should not be jacked with the hood open (Corvette's for one) as the hood is part of the structure and lifting with the hood open weakens the structure and you may not get the hood closed again. I have heard of Camaro's and Firebird's getting damaged by incorrect lifting.

Another word about lifting and that is NEVER use concrete blocks to support a vehicle. The are designed to be part of a larger structural piece and be them selves are not all the strong. I have seen them crumble from the weight of a car.

 

[Drew99GT]

Thanks for the replies fellas. With Corvettes, I think you HAVE to have the hood open because the body and hood is fiberglass, and with it closed, it'll shatter. My buddy works at discount tire and he's told me horror stories of new guys throwing Vettes on the lift with everything shut, and then coblam, split fiberglass.