What kind/weight of oil should I use on an '86 Volvo TurboDiesel?

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JTM

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I have a 1986 740GLE Turbo Diesel wagon and need to change the oil as it has around 107,000 miles. I'm not sure what kind of oil the Volvo dealership used when I had it changed 4,000 miles ago. Since it has over 100,000 miles and is a diesel, would it be best to use 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, or Redline 15W-40 diesel engine oil (which is made specifically for diesel engines)?

I was thinking of going with Mobil 1 Synthetic, but I read where someone said they started having leaks when they switched since they had a car with high miles. Would it be best to go with synthetic or regular Castrol dino oil?

Also, I ordered some Mann oil filters but I don't have any crush washers. How can I tell what size crush washer I need? I read that other Volvos use 23.5mm (15/16") X 18mm (23/32") X 1.2mm (.05") thick, but since mine is a diesel and is 17 years old, it may be different.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Jeff
 
Jeff,

This is classified as a light duty, indirect injection "IDI" diesel. Primary oil spec is VW 502/505.00, although ACEA B3 or B4 is also acceptable. If oil consumption is good and you want to try a synthetic, the Mobil 1, 15w-50 meets the above specs. It's pretty thick stuff at operating temp, so it should minimize oil burning and leaking. I've seen some good analysis results in older Mercedes diesels with the 15w-50. The Mobil 1 will clean up any sludge/varnish/carbon deposits, so I'd do a couple of short, 3k-4k change intervals. Following that, I'd go with a 6000 mile/6 month change interval, unless you do some oil analysis testing.

The main issue I've seen with high mileage VW engines and synthetic lubes is some seepage from the cork valve cover gaskets. There are improved rubber gaskets available for most of these engines. If this is like other VW/Audi engines it will use a flat copper, drainplug washer and not the Volvo crush washer ....Drainplug should be a 19mm hex design.
 
What do you guys mean by VW? What does it stand for?

I'm not really that concerned about price, I'd just like to go with something that is best for the car.

Do you think the 15w-50 Mobil 1 is too high? How come you recommend this over 15w-40?

If I did start getting leaks going with synthetic, should I re-do the oil and add dino oil? If not, what would I need to replace and is it difficult to do myself?

You think it just uses a regular flat washer. Do you think I just shouldn't bother with trying to get a crush washer and hope that it does use a flat washer? Then if it doesn't, just use the washer that's on there now again?

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it!
 
VW, you know Volkswagon. Volvo didn't make the engine they just bought it from VW.

It's basically a good engine, you have the best of the breed, a turbo. The actually one of "fastest" diesel cars produced for that era. But do the maintenance.

TooSlick knows his stuff and is basing his recommendation on used oil analysis' he's seen.

I also have seen good ones on 15W-40, so that's where I'm coming from. I don't think there's a need for XW-50, but it will work fine.

I say just get a new correct washer - which indeed is a VW washer.

Lastly - I think you should do a double AutoRx treatment and use Chevton Delo 400 15W-40 for this, and the first change. Then change to the Amsoil 15W-40. It's not likely it will leak at this point, but if so you can change back to the Delo or find and fix the cover gasket or seal that is leaking.
 
I'm surprised to hear that the inside my Volvo was made by VW. Is it just with the Volvo diesels or did they make all their engines in the mid 80s? It's pretty quick once it's going but for being a "Turbo Diesel" that thing is VERY slow when pulling out into traffic.

The Delo oil is not sythentic, correct? Just out of curiosity, how come you think it's beter to go with the Chevron/Amsoil oil over Mobil 1?

Do you have any idea what size washer I should get? Can I get one at any AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, etc. or do I need to go to the Volvo or VW dealer?

Thanks again for the advice and help!

[ October 01, 2003, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: JTM ]
 
Volvo made their own gas engines. Well with the exception of the PRV V6, but that's another story.

Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 is not synthetic.

I have nothing against Mobil. I just know the Delo and I sell Amsoil. The combination is matchless, as far as I can tell for high mile engines/diesels that like 15W-40.
 
Your Volvo has a VW engine in it. I use Amsoil 15w-40 in my 1991 VW Jetta 1.6 Diesel with 240k miles and in my 2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI with 89k miles.
 
Common sense tells me that since the car is 18 years old forget the synthetics that may cause more grief than good.
It appears that you put on about 6-8,000 miles per year.
All of the CI-4 engine oils are so good it would be hard to pick one over the other.
The best advice I could give is to use 10W30 from November 1st to April 1st, and 15W40 from April to November.
Any brand of the above "Diesel " engine oils will do just fine.
Jelly likes his Penz long life, I have never found fault with Chevron's Delo, Shell's Rotella, Esso/Exxon XD-3, Pet-Can's Duron, and so on.
 
UF,

Have you tried the Duron XL, 15w-40 synthetic blend diesel oil? It is supposed to be an excellent product and you could run it well into the colder weather. I've seen some trucking companies running 90,000 km drains with this oil ....

Ted
 
I think I plug Pet-Canuck too much.
Duron shows XL synthetic blends in 15W40, 10W40, and 0W30. The 15W40 blend is ACEA E3 and E5 certified where the regular 15W40 is not.
But the regular Duron 15W40 is VW 501/505 and DD CF-2, which is unusual for a multi-grade.
Interesting enough, Pet-Can paid the Nippon piper and had all the Duron's JASO MA, and some DH-1 licenced.
Anything is possible wilst using taxpayer's money.
What the heck does "blend" mean?
Everyone knows that the stuff is hydroprocessed G3s and GTLs.
They all sell for about $3.40/L or about $2.50/US/qt at the bulk place.
I would imagine the bulk sales place makes at least 35% or he wouldn't still be in business.
So you wanna make some money on a Canadian product?
I bought some 0W30 Duron last winter in Brandon Manitoba when it was F******* cold out.
The 5W40 is only aboutabuck more, I found a 20L pail of Delo 5W40 I forgot I had so I'm set for another couple of seasons.
 
quote:
Originally posted by userfriendly:
Common sense tells me that since the car is 18 years old forget the synthetics that may cause more grief than good.
Click to expand...
An old wives tale is hardly common sence.

My 12 year old VW 1.6 Diesel with 240k miles has no problems using full synthetic Amsoil 15w-40. No infamous oil leaks either.

Another good choice is Amsoil 15w-40 Synthetic Blend. It's even API certified.
tongue.gif
 
"Its even API certified"
Thanks.
I guess that would give credibility to any lubricant.

Switching to a synthetic after 17 years and 107,000 miles especially in a diesel engine may cause more harm than good.

A spreader of old wives tails is called a GYN.
 
I just went to start up the Volvo tonight and it wouldn't start after about 5 tries. It was driven less than 24 hours ago so it hasn't been sitting a while without being driven. A ton of smoke came out of the exhaust after trying to start it. I checked the oil and it was a little below the minimum mark. Could the low oil be causing it not to start? It has a full tank of gas and the lights/radio/fan came on so I'm sure the battery is probably OK. It's been really cold here lately (currently 30 degrees F) so that may have something to do with it.

I don't have anymore Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 which is what I put in about 3 months ago. If I put a quart of 10w-40 of Castrol in would it be OK or should I wait and get more Chevron Delo 400 15W-40?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Jeff
 
Try going through two glow cycles before engaging the starter. Then when you engage the starter spin the engine a little till it catches.

Don't worry about the puff of blue or gray smoke. They all smoke a little when started in cold weather.

You can't just tap the starter like you can in a spark engine.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Neil Womack:
Try going through two glow cycles before engaging the starter. Then when you engage the starter spin the engine a little till it catches.
Click to expand...
Neil,

Thanks for your response. I'm afraid you lost me a little with what you recommended. Do you mean that I should try holding the key down for about 6 seconds or so after the coils warm up? What do you mean by glow cycles and sping the engine a little til it catches?


Jeff
 
JTM, here's what I do/did with my 1982 Rabbit diesel: I'd run a 15W-40 mineral oil during the summer time and in the winter I'd use a 5W-40 synthetic oil. I did this because the 15W-40 caused my little Rabbit much grief when the outside temperatures were near or below freezing.

I just sold my Rabbit this past week but our temperatures here in Georgia were dipping down to 20ºF at night. I'd heat the glow plugs twice in the morning and the little thing would fire up with minimal complaint. It had a hard time cranking the 15W-40 when it was 20ºF outside.

So try using a lighter grade diesel oil during the months of November through March and then use the 15W-40 during the summer. Oh, don't forget to use a diesel anti-gel additive such as Shell's DFA or PowerService's white bottle - both sold at WAl-Mart. It might be a good idea to change your fuel filter at the beginning of winter too.
 
quote:
Originally posted by FowVay:
JTM, here's what I do/did with my 1982 Rabbit diesel: I'd run a 15W-40 mineral oil during the summer time and in the winter I'd use a 5W-40 synthetic oil. I did this because the 15W-40 caused my little Rabbit much grief when the outside temperatures were near or below freezing.

I just sold my Rabbit this past week but our temperatures here in Georgia were dipping down to 20ºF at night. I'd heat the glow plugs twice in the morning and the little thing would fire up with minimal complaint. It had a hard time cranking the 15W-40 when it was 20ºF outside.

So try using a lighter grade diesel oil during the months of November through March and then use the 15W-40 during the summer. Oh, don't forget to use a diesel anti-gel additive such as Shell's DFA or PowerService's white bottle - both sold at WAl-Mart. It might be a good idea to change your fuel filter at the beginning of winter too.
Click to expand...
Which 15w-40 were you using?
 
FowWay,

Thanks for your help. Where do I find the glow plugs and how should I go about heating them? Are they the same thing as the coils (the things that have to warm up when turning the key and waiting about 10 seconds)?

The oil that I used last time was Chevron Delo 10w-40. Is this good?

What brand of oil did you use for the 5w-40? I noticed Chevron doesn't make this level of synthetic. I use Mobil synthetic for my Xterra, but I'm not sure if they make it this high in that either. What brands do you recommend?

How much of the gel should I put in when changing the oil?

Where would I find the fuel filter? My wife's had the Volvo for over 3 years (since my grandfather passed away) so I guess it's about time to go ahead and change it anyway.

Thanks again for all of the help. It is much appreciated!


Jeff
 
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