I added some "Trans X" leak sealer to my 2000 Montero Sport 2WD tranny and now I have shifting problems when the tranny is cold. I realize I made a mistake, now I am looking for a fix other than a rebuild. I've drained the pan 5 times since I put in the additive but I still have "morning sickness" when the tranny is cold. Any ideas? thx
Montero tranny problems
- Thread starter cstarr
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I've driven many miles between each drain in an effort to remove the "sealer". I've been using Mitsubishi fluid. I thought there was a leak but I couldn't see it. The underside of the tranny was always wet.
You need to take the Montero to an oil change shop and have the fluid EXCHANGED with 18 quarts of new fluid to flush out all of the sealer.
The multiple pan drains technique works, but will still leave some behind.
If you take it to a shop with a T-Tech Machine, and run 18 quarts through it (i.e. Jiffy Lube), then it'll remove all of the old fluid.
I think Jiffy Lube runs through 18 quarts of the Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle for $99.
[ June 29, 2006, 11:38 AM: Message edited by: The Critic ]
The multiple pan drains technique works, but will still leave some behind.
If you take it to a shop with a T-Tech Machine, and run 18 quarts through it (i.e. Jiffy Lube), then it'll remove all of the old fluid.
I think Jiffy Lube runs through 18 quarts of the Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle for $99.
[ June 29, 2006, 11:38 AM: Message edited by: The Critic ]
Thanks for the reply. A tranny shop said not to do that because the way it's done could cause more problems than it helps. Does this process involve more of a "flush" additive or does it involve new tranny fluid as the flush agent? Is Pennzoil compatible with my Mitsubishi? I asked around when I did a drain last year and no one could tell me if there was an off the shelf brand that would work. I didn't want to take any chances so I stuck with the factory stuff.
5 drain/refill is equivalent to a flush in most trannies.
Use one ounce of lubegard or smartblend red or platinum/titanium for each quart of ATF capacity. Add it now, but drain a little ATF to prevent overfilling.
Then, add an ounce of lubegard to every bottle of new OEM ATF used for all future drain/refills. I would drive minimally 5-7.5k miles on each drain refill.
And, depending on the mileage, I'd consider a pan drop and inspection. This will allow you to inspect the pan for any buildup, clean it and the pan magnet if equipped, and service the filter.
Hopefully the leak is a pan gasket leak and not a front or rear tranny seal leak. You should also inpsect the cooler lines for leakage. The only fix for a damaged seal is replacement.
I also will assume that you are checking your ATF level correctly. Incorrect level will cause shift issues. Reference your owners manual of factory service manual. Typically, hot transmission, vehicle running, level surface, run shifter lever through all gears, then check dipstick, if equipped, in park.
Use one ounce of lubegard or smartblend red or platinum/titanium for each quart of ATF capacity. Add it now, but drain a little ATF to prevent overfilling.
Then, add an ounce of lubegard to every bottle of new OEM ATF used for all future drain/refills. I would drive minimally 5-7.5k miles on each drain refill.
And, depending on the mileage, I'd consider a pan drop and inspection. This will allow you to inspect the pan for any buildup, clean it and the pan magnet if equipped, and service the filter.
Hopefully the leak is a pan gasket leak and not a front or rear tranny seal leak. You should also inpsect the cooler lines for leakage. The only fix for a damaged seal is replacement.
I also will assume that you are checking your ATF level correctly. Incorrect level will cause shift issues. Reference your owners manual of factory service manual. Typically, hot transmission, vehicle running, level surface, run shifter lever through all gears, then check dipstick, if equipped, in park.
A T-Tech fluid exchange will remove ALL of the old fluid if enough new fluid is used.
Your transmission shop is confusing neglected transmissions with yours.
If your transmission filter was full of sludge, and the fluid had never been changed, then I could see how a complete fluid exchange with new fluid can cause problems, as the new fluid would break down deposits (and sludge) from parts and clog up the filter.
This isn't the case. Your filter is clean, I assume. You've done four or five pan drops, so the fluid is already quite clean. While 4-5 drain/fills may dilute MOST of the old fluid, if one runs enough (18 quarts) of new fluid through all at once with a machine, you can remove all of it.
There are many different types of transmission fluid exchange services.
One is by BG. It uses a cleaner and conditioner, followed by a flush. It has the capability of breaking down deposits. Some claim it's a backflush, I don't know.
Then there's the T-Tech, which is probably the most popular. It uses nothing but new fluid, and puts no pressure on the transmission. In fact, the machine runs entirely off the transmission pump, so no "extra" pressure is put on the unit. This is the machine Jiffy Lubes use, so I really cannot see how a problem can occur.
Then Wynn makes another one that uses cleaners and conditioners. Don't know much about it other than that.
The Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle is compatible with SP-III applications, at least according to the data sheet and their technical support department.
Amsoil also makes a good product that'll work in SP-III, and our sponsorer Specialty Formulations also makes one.
If your transmission is already experiencing shifting problems, I'd have the T-Tech done and reset the TCM and hope for the best. It won't cause any additional problems, at best, it may buy you additional time if it doesn't solve the problem.
FazerZ on this forum is in Matthews and could rebuild your transmission if you ever need it done. (Hopefully not)
Your transmission shop is confusing neglected transmissions with yours.
If your transmission filter was full of sludge, and the fluid had never been changed, then I could see how a complete fluid exchange with new fluid can cause problems, as the new fluid would break down deposits (and sludge) from parts and clog up the filter.
This isn't the case. Your filter is clean, I assume. You've done four or five pan drops, so the fluid is already quite clean. While 4-5 drain/fills may dilute MOST of the old fluid, if one runs enough (18 quarts) of new fluid through all at once with a machine, you can remove all of it.
There are many different types of transmission fluid exchange services.
One is by BG. It uses a cleaner and conditioner, followed by a flush. It has the capability of breaking down deposits. Some claim it's a backflush, I don't know.
Then there's the T-Tech, which is probably the most popular. It uses nothing but new fluid, and puts no pressure on the transmission. In fact, the machine runs entirely off the transmission pump, so no "extra" pressure is put on the unit. This is the machine Jiffy Lubes use, so I really cannot see how a problem can occur.
Then Wynn makes another one that uses cleaners and conditioners. Don't know much about it other than that.
The Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle is compatible with SP-III applications, at least according to the data sheet and their technical support department.
Amsoil also makes a good product that'll work in SP-III, and our sponsorer Specialty Formulations also makes one.
If your transmission is already experiencing shifting problems, I'd have the T-Tech done and reset the TCM and hope for the best. It won't cause any additional problems, at best, it may buy you additional time if it doesn't solve the problem.
FazerZ on this forum is in Matthews and could rebuild your transmission if you ever need it done. (Hopefully not)
It's a 2WD tranny with the 3.0L engine, not sure of the code though. I'll have to check the manual for total capacity but the drain capacity is about 2.5 quarts. It has 140K on it. Where can I find Lubegard or Smartblend? I don't recall seeing it at the typical places. I'm not worried about any leaks at this point, just getting rid of the "morning sickness". thx
A typical machine flush will remove most of the old ATF. And, because of old and new ATF mixing both in the TC and the sump, it can't and WILL NOT remove all the old ATF. ATF flush machines are simple overfill and dilute machines. Overflow enough and enough of the old ATF is gone. Don't overflow enough and more remains behind.
Typically, they'll remove 90% of the fluid, or LESS depending on shop competence. With the quicklube and dealer incompetence available, expect even less efficiency from a machine flush.
Cstarr, what transmission? total textbook capacity? total drain/refill capacity? mileage on unit?
Typically, they'll remove 90% of the fluid, or LESS depending on shop competence. With the quicklube and dealer incompetence available, expect even less efficiency from a machine flush.
Cstarr, what transmission? total textbook capacity? total drain/refill capacity? mileage on unit?
Lubegard or Smartblend can be found easily online with a google search. Most Napa's have lubegard and can order it. At one time, Pepboys and Autozone stocked Lubegard or the rebadged Aamco lubegard clone. You can also check with transmission rebuilders or tranny parts suppliers using your yellow pages.
Depending on previous maintenance, your transmission might just be tired. I doubt that TransX could've of done anthing.
This also might be the fix:
http://www.transgo.com/sk_mitsu.php
Depending on previous maintenance, your transmission might just be tired. I doubt that TransX could've of done anthing.
This also might be the fix:
http://www.transgo.com/sk_mitsu.php
Thanks unDummy. I was able to find LubeGard at NAPA and threw some in last night. I'll let you know how it works. I checked the link you provided. Don't shift kits require the tranny to be removed and partially rebuilt? I do have a 3-4 shift issue, but nothing that would push me to purchase a full rebuild.
Many VB mods can be done with just a pan drop and VB removal or disassembly.
You'll need to reference the kit directions and the transmission service manual for specifics.
Note that some shift kits include parts that can only be installed during a rebuild. But, in some kits, you don't have to install the entire package. Basically, intall as much as possible without transmission removal, usually a couple VB springs, seals, or other mods......
You'll need to reference the kit directions and the transmission service manual for specifics.
Note that some shift kits include parts that can only be installed during a rebuild. But, in some kits, you don't have to install the entire package. Basically, intall as much as possible without transmission removal, usually a couple VB springs, seals, or other mods......
I do not think he has ever dropped the pan. That pan has a drain plug. Tranny filter is just a screen. You can do a flush just like they do with the T-Tec machines by disconnecting the ATF cooler lines. Plus, if you drain the pan and refil prior to drainin from the cooler line you will do a better job than they would with the T-Tec machine.
I am curious what the shifting "problems" are. My '95 shifts much different when cold than when new, but that is because it is programmed to do that to reduce emissions.
I am curious what the shifting "problems" are. My '95 shifts much different when cold than when new, but that is because it is programmed to do that to reduce emissions.
The shifting problems occured only when the fluid was cold. It would not shift into drive or once it got going it would drop out of drive at the first stop sign in the neighborhood.
I dropped in some Lubegard and added some Pennzoil Multi-vehicle ATF and it seems to be much better now. I thought I had the proper fluid level but the **** dipstick is so hard to read on an auto tranny that it may have been too low. Thanks for all the replies.
I dropped in some Lubegard and added some Pennzoil Multi-vehicle ATF and it seems to be much better now. I thought I had the proper fluid level but the **** dipstick is so hard to read on an auto tranny that it may have been too low. Thanks for all the replies.
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