Hello all. I don't post very often, but I find this board extremely informative. I own a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder with the 3.5 liter VQ engine. It has 28k miles on it with M1 5-30 for it's oil since 7k. Seems to like it just fine as the dealer does the changes for free for the first 12 changes and I take in the oil. I have never serviced the tranny and feel like I should either flush and fill or drain and fill. What are your opinions on what a should do and with what fluid. SUV sees no towing or what I would consider hard use. Any other Pathfinder owners out there? Thanks for your replies.
2002 Nissan Pathfinder
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MolaKule
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I have a 2003 PathFinder with the DOHC V6.
I drain tranny fluid (pan only) and refill Dexron III/Mercon type every 10k miles. Since the Nissans have drain plugs on everything, they are very convienient to change.
It takes exactly 4.5 liters of refill fluid for my automatic.
I drain tranny fluid (pan only) and refill Dexron III/Mercon type every 10k miles. Since the Nissans have drain plugs on everything, they are very convienient to change.
It takes exactly 4.5 liters of refill fluid for my automatic.
I replaced OEM fluid with Valvoline Dexron III ATF on my 2K Maxima and I have seen good results so far. The ATF temperature is way less that the OEM fluid and the car runs like a gem.
I think the any Dexron III ATF would be definetly better that the OEM fluid -- that's what I feel and if you have the big bucks go for the synthetics, though I did drain and fill with Mobil 1 syn ATF and found my tranny getting real hot very fast. It all depends on what you want to put into the tranny but remember some trannies don't like synthetics (atleast mine).
I think the any Dexron III ATF would be definetly better that the OEM fluid -- that's what I feel and if you have the big bucks go for the synthetics, though I did drain and fill with Mobil 1 syn ATF and found my tranny getting real hot very fast. It all depends on what you want to put into the tranny but remember some trannies don't like synthetics (atleast mine).
I did change my ATF with amsoil. first tranny slipped but it was becuase of overfill. Make sure you read your owner manual how to check ATF.......
Now my van runs smooth with amsoil.
Now my van runs smooth with amsoil.
Would like to do a drain and fill in the next few weeks. Will probably use Castrol ATF. Is all I have to do is loosen the drain plug, drain, and refill through the transmission dipstick? I'm not sure witch drain plug is the right one, could someone point it out to me or direct me to a site for help. Thanks.
MolaKule
Staff member
Identify the transmission unit. The drain plug is on the driver's side at the rear of the tranny pan.
Refill through dipstick with the type of funnel that has a flexible hose.
After draining, put in three quarts and run engine until hot. Check dipstick, then add as necessary, 1/2 pint at a time. As I said, mine takes 4.5 Liters or almost 5 quarts. Your's may vary a little.
[ September 21, 2004, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Refill through dipstick with the type of funnel that has a flexible hose.
After draining, put in three quarts and run engine until hot. Check dipstick, then add as necessary, 1/2 pint at a time. As I said, mine takes 4.5 Liters or almost 5 quarts. Your's may vary a little.
[ September 21, 2004, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
Nissans are tough on tranny fluid. Look at the weight and HP of that vehicle. Normal driving can be abusive.
You're definitely overdue. Start practicing regular drain/refills. With regular drain/refilles, you'll never need an overpriced flush.
Stick with the Nissan OEM fluid, an equivalent, or a good synthetic. If shifting isn't as smooth as before the change and not using the OEM fluid, use an HFM additive.
You're definitely overdue. Start practicing regular drain/refills. With regular drain/refilles, you'll never need an overpriced flush.
Stick with the Nissan OEM fluid, an equivalent, or a good synthetic. If shifting isn't as smooth as before the change and not using the OEM fluid, use an HFM additive.
Iam told MT90 is a good HFM -- can an expert on this forum confirm.
If yes, which stores carry them and how much needs to be added for a 10Q tranny.
If yes, which stores carry them and how much needs to be added for a 10Q tranny.
MolaKule
Staff member
Redline's MT90 is a 75W90 GL4 rated Manual Transmission Lube.
What's a 10Q?
If this is a manual tranny, try a 50/50 mix of MTL and MT90.
I don't see a site sponsor for Redline. It says "you have searched for a topic that does not exist."
What's a 10Q?
If this is a manual tranny, try a 50/50 mix of MTL and MT90.
I don't see a site sponsor for Redline. It says "you have searched for a topic that does not exist."
I don't think they renewed sponsorship. Too bad. But I will still continue to buy from them, did before and will after.
Even for powersteering? That would be sweet.
MolaKule
Staff member
Jason,
I haven't found a drain plug for PS. I just use the Turkey Baster method and change fluid at the same time I change tranny fluid.
I haven't found a drain plug for PS. I just use the Turkey Baster method and change fluid at the same time I change tranny fluid.
MolaKule : My max in auto-transmission and 10Q meant the capacity of the tranny 10 Quarts
MolaKule
Staff member
Maximaguy,
Believe me, I am not a Nissan expert, I just drive them, which is why I asked what type of transmission it was.
I wouldn't put anything in there except ATF and maybe Lubeguard Black.
The MT90 has too strong an EP package for AT fluids. You don't need EP adds, you need AW additives in an AT. The Redline MT series has friction modifiers for brass and sintered synchronizers, not wet clutch plate material. Stick with D4 or an equivalent Dexron III.
Hope that helps.
Believe me, I am not a Nissan expert, I just drive them, which is why I asked what type of transmission it was.
I wouldn't put anything in there except ATF and maybe Lubeguard Black.
The MT90 has too strong an EP package for AT fluids. You don't need EP adds, you need AW additives in an AT. The Redline MT series has friction modifiers for brass and sintered synchronizers, not wet clutch plate material. Stick with D4 or an equivalent Dexron III.
Hope that helps.
MolaKule : I shall refrain from putting anything into my tranny. Thx for your detailed reply. Later..
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