Noisy Dana 35C rear axle

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It has been my experience, that RP max-gear works very well at quieting down noisy transmissions.......I really can't say about diffs. The max-gear works great in my 2 GM 8.5 10 bolts, but they were always quiet. Have you checked your fluid level?
 
Many faulty carrier bearings where installed on Jeep Grand Cherokees with the Dana 35c between 1996-1997. I had to have it rebuilt in 1999. I’m currently running Schaeffer’s 267 80W-90 in mine right now with apparent success.
 
If it is indeed the carrier bearings you should be able to.

1: Remove the axles.
2: Remove the carrier taking note of any shims
3: Have the old bearings pressed off and new ones pressed back on.
4: Replace the races too.

You shouldn't have to reset the gears if you only do the carrier bearings.

No oil can replace a worn part.
 
I just got back from a road trip to LSU. My Grand Cherokee did great. My only complaint is the noisy rear axle. It is time for it to be serviced and the whining from the gears is normal but is there any fluid that I could use that would quiet the gears down? I was thinking about using RP MaxGear (75w90) since its easy to find.
 
darrenc and Chris142(are you the same one on JU?), my ZJ is a 95 so the carrier bearings are ok. I am acutally running 80w-90. My dad had that put in. I believe he used Valvoline Durablend. I cringed. It is due for fluid change really really soon. The 75w-140 isn't recommended for Dana 35s without the Trac-loc limited slip.

Maybe the fluid is actually low. Could it be the type of gasket that I am using? I'm using the Fel-Pro gasket from Autozone. It does look kinda moist now that I read the link (thanks MolaKule). If I check the fluid, would it be ok if I add some 75w-90 in the mean time? I have a quart of that sitting around in my garage. Its never been opened and I've had it for about a 9 months.

This Dana 35 has always made noise but it just got louder on the trip. It felt louder than usual.
 
"The 75w-140 isn't recommended for Dana 35s without the Trac-loc limited slip. "

you can still use the thicker stuff nevertheless

alot of people run it front and rear in the D30 as well

I use (red) RTV for a gasket
 
Yeah, I know. But, for some reason, if I fill shortly after bolting on the cover, I get seepage (not leaks). When I fill after the RTV has cured, I get zero seepage. Just my personal preference. There is no problem doing it your way.
 
Yes, I’m occasionally on JU. You are right about the D-35c being somewhat noisy. Mine has always had some gear whine, even after the rebuild. At least the whoa whoa whoa went away. Anyway, I change my gear lube out every year because I pull a heavy boat. I have used Royal Purple 85W-140, Amsoil 75W-140, and Schaeffer’s #267 80W-90 (my most recent fill). By far, the Schaeffer’s gear lube is the quietest of the bunch (and it’s not even the right grade! - - should be using synthetic 75W-140 with the limited slip tow package). So, based on my ear-o-meter, I’d have to recommend the Schaeffer lube. You can check out its specs on the schaeffersoil.com web site. Check your yellow pages under oil to see if you have a local jobber, or buy off Schaeffer dealer on this board.

Here is my procedure.

1. Pull cover off and drain.
2. Scrape off gasket material and completely clean gasket surfaces (sometimes I have to use emery cloth).
3. Spray out differential with a full can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner (Berryman’s B-12 works great). Wipe out with clean cloth or good paper towels. Allow to completely evaporate (about 15 min).
4. Make a new gasket by running a bead of RTV Black (hi temp stuff) on differential cover.
5. Mount cover and gradually tighten the cover bolts, each one a little at a time. Once they are snug, tighten to spec using a torque wrench (use a star pattern).
6. Allow RTV to dry overnight before filling.
7. Next day, pump fresh lube into diff til full.

Good luck.
 
cool, alot of people like to let the RTV fully setup like you do. It probably is better to do it that way, but for people w/ time constraints, they can do it the fast way if necessary.
 
Well, I'm going to the mechanic next weekend. I'll still use a gasket but I'll make sure that the RTV he uses sets before he puts the fluid. He's a smart mechanic and his prices are extremely reasonable. (20 bucks to change the fluid). The rear end of my Jeep is usually semi oily a few thousand miles after it gets changed. I'm going to use Royal Purple since its easy to find.
 
The mechanic is gonna look at it next week. I have my list of parts and fluids for the tranny and differential. thanks for the help!
 
I recently kept a 2001 JEEP Cherokee for a day to see about buying. Low miles, but found more problems than I liked. Especially the axle carrier bearing noise after 20-miles on the highway at 65-70 mph.

I've run MOBIL ONE and now REDLINE gear oil in the open differential on our Jeep. Annual change, work performed as per excellent directions above; used "The Right Stuff" aerosol product for gasket (from NAPA). Super easy to use. (I also use ARX for the appropriate mileage/amount prior to change).

As to heavier oils masking noise, it is important to try to determine WHAT is making the noise. I would come up with a detailed description of when the noise occurs; under EXACTLY what conditions?

While a minor rebuild of a rear end seems a lot of $$-work, the consequences of a lock-up rear end aren't minor. It is a safety issue and deserves a careful investigation.

Good luck
 
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