brake fluid change interval
- Thread starter Cutehumor
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Kestas
Staff member
This is one maintenence item ignored by most manufacturers, except VW, Mercedes, and maybe a few others. Mercedes recommends a brake fluid change every 2 years for all their cars. Practically speaking, this rule should be applied to every car, regardless of mileage. Not only will it keep the brakes working properly, it'll save on premature replacement of calipers.
There is a pretty long and informative post here on brake fluid.
The ABS actuator on my car lists for $1700 and is available with a discount for $1200.
Personally, I feel an annual brake fluid flush is darn cheap insurance.
The ABS actuator on my car lists for $1700 and is available with a discount for $1200.
Personally, I feel an annual brake fluid flush is darn cheap insurance.
Take a look at the master cylinder in a new car. Nice and clean & clear: no goop or gunk, etc.
That's how the brake fluid is SUPPOSED to look.
If you let it get brown, then black, it will cost you a lot more, eventually.
It is a bit of a hassle (for MOST people) to get underneath the car every couple of years, but it is probably worth it if you want to depend upon your car to stop EVERY TIME...
A related question would be "When is it time for a brake hose replacement?"
That's how the brake fluid is SUPPOSED to look.
If you let it get brown, then black, it will cost you a lot more, eventually.
It is a bit of a hassle (for MOST people) to get underneath the car every couple of years, but it is probably worth it if you want to depend upon your car to stop EVERY TIME...
A related question would be "When is it time for a brake hose replacement?"
For most of us, brake hoses will last a *lot* longer than we should run our brake fluid.
If you live in a humid climate, as I do, Castrol LMA fluid is tough to beat for the average daily driver. Changed every 1-2 years , plain old Dot 3 works fine too.
For all the DIY'rs out there- just in case you haven't heard of them, Speedbleeders are your friend.
If you live in a humid climate, as I do, Castrol LMA fluid is tough to beat for the average daily driver. Changed every 1-2 years , plain old Dot 3 works fine too.
For all the DIY'rs out there- just in case you haven't heard of them, Speedbleeders are your friend.
Since most of my life has been spent driving junk I had a lot of horrible problems with bleed nipples and line fittings. My final solution to the problem was to suction out the fluid from the master cylinder every year and replace it with new fluid. This works like a charm since the fluid is constantly being flushed back and forth. If I saw it get dark again soon, I would repeat as necessary.
It it ain't broke, don't fix it. Replacing clear, light brake fluid is as
likely to cause problems as prevent them. Any time you loosen a
bleed screw, remove it, clean it, and coat it with a silicone grease
before replacing. If the bleed screw doesn't turn with reasonable
effort using a 6 point socket, quit before you twist it off. Often they
can be broken loose by tapping with a hammer. It is better to distort
the outlet, than to twist it off. If a hammer doesn't do it, try heating
it with a torch and quenching it. Also works on line nuts too. In
some cases you may as well cut the old, rusty line off to give you a
good shot with the hammer.
I would leave the fluid in until you afraid the lines are rusted badly
enough the safest thing is to replace them. With the new lines,
again coat all the threads with silicone grease before assembling.
Brake fluid does need to be replaced eventually. I have seen old
stuff that the fluid turned to solid granules, but that may take 20
years or more. I would let it go at least 10 years.
Motive Products makes a killer bleeder for about $45 that makes flushing your brake lines almost fun. www.motiveproducts.com .
My Volvo calls for a flush every two years. I service the Volv and my Jeep at this interval using ATE Super Blue DOT 4+ . The Castrol LMA and the Valvoline SysPower are also good DOT 4 fluids.
My Volvo calls for a flush every two years. I service the Volv and my Jeep at this interval using ATE Super Blue DOT 4+ . The Castrol LMA and the Valvoline SysPower are also good DOT 4 fluids.
I do not believe that there is enough fluid transfer going on between the master cylinder and the caliper or slave cylinders to get clean fluid out to them. You are talking about a pretty long run very little actual volume being moved.
Brake fluid is very attracted to water and will absorb water from the air over time. That time varies among fluids and systems, but 2 years is a good interval. The absorbed water is what causes the problems.
I did a search for the old discussion on this and it is gone. It had a lot of good info.
Brake fluid is very attracted to water and will absorb water from the air over time. That time varies among fluids and systems, but 2 years is a good interval. The absorbed water is what causes the problems.
I did a search for the old discussion on this and it is gone. It had a lot of good info.
I flush the brake fluid every two years in all my driver cars. Once one gets the bleeders free and lubricated, they will open OK if exercised every two years. I am currently using Valvoline Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid. If I was using a car in competition I would use the ATE product.
I have a seldom-driven collector car that has had DOT 5 silicon fluid in it for about 15 years. I have flushed it only once in that time span.
I have a seldom-driven collector car that has had DOT 5 silicon fluid in it for about 15 years. I have flushed it only once in that time span.
i made my own psuedo speed bleeder by placing a 1 way aquarium air valve on a hose connected to the stock bleed nipple.
it works GREAT, it works on any car, and it cost $1.50
for my hydraulic clutch, i cut a hole in the master cylinder resivor cap and installed a valve stem for a car tyre. this allows me to pressurize the master cylinder (to low volume, like 10psi) and crack open the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder. it works aewsome and is good for a 1 person job.
it works GREAT, it works on any car, and it cost $1.50
for my hydraulic clutch, i cut a hole in the master cylinder resivor cap and installed a valve stem for a car tyre. this allows me to pressurize the master cylinder (to low volume, like 10psi) and crack open the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder. it works aewsome and is good for a 1 person job.
Hi,
most European manufacturers use two years as the change limit - Porsche included
Being hygroscopic brake fluid old contaminated brake fluid can lead to the fluid boiling due to the moisture. It causes internal rust too
Many newer type brake fluids - synthetics too - are long life and only require changing at three/four year intervals
Regards
most European manufacturers use two years as the change limit - Porsche included
Being hygroscopic brake fluid old contaminated brake fluid can lead to the fluid boiling due to the moisture. It causes internal rust too
Many newer type brake fluids - synthetics too - are long life and only require changing at three/four year intervals
Regards
I use 2 years as a rule of thumb. Has worked for me for too many years.
I live in a relativly dry and somewhat cold climate. And on my regular north american vehicles dont't change the brake fluid unless I am doing a major brake job. However, on my 01 Golf GTI they call for a change every 2yrs. but then again, VW expects these cars to stop effectivly fom 135mph. I always keep an eye on this stuff -- checking it each spring on a day with low humidity making sure each time to reset the rubber bellows inside the master cylinder lid. I've had no problems with either brakes or hydro-clutch and my 80 Spitfire still has the factory fill. To be on the safe side change out your fluid based on a schedule of humidity and driving style -- or at least when you change the pads/shoes.
Annually and clutch fluid too. Cheap insurance. If you live in a very wet/humid area even more often can't hurt IMO.
Brake systems are not sealed. They are vented at the cap. Otherwise, how is air going to enter to replace the fluid drop due to pad wear at the caliper? The same bone-headed logic that tells you never to change ATF applies here.
The problem with do-it-yourself brake bleeding on modern cars is the ABS units. A special service tool is often needed to properly bleed ABS systems.
The problem with do-it-yourself brake bleeding on modern cars is the ABS units. A special service tool is often needed to properly bleed ABS systems.
On the cars and trucks I have at least, the brake system is sealed. Air does not enter the system to replace fluid as the pads wear. A rubber septum is placed over the top of the master cylinder before its cap is put in place. The septum has pleats in it and a section that can easily extend down as needed when more fluid is in the wheel cylinders. This includes both drum and disk type systems.
"On the cars and trucks I have at least, the brake system is sealed. Air does not enter the system to replace fluid as the pads wear. A rubber septum is placed over the top of the master cylinder before its cap is put in place. The septum has pleats in it and a section that can easily extend down as needed when more fluid is in the wheel cylinders. This includes both drum and disk type systems."
^^^ Thank you ^^^
It appears that Jimbo needs to take an auto mechanics class before freely giving out insults on subjects he OBVIOUSLY is not familiar with.
^^^ Thank you ^^^
It appears that Jimbo needs to take an auto mechanics class before freely giving out insults on subjects he OBVIOUSLY is not familiar with.
Sorry. Just realized I shouldn't have posted the link to Motive Products. The link has been posted to the Favorite Links section.
Darren
Darren
Moisture enters brake hydraulic systems that use DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 hygroscopic fluid through the rubber lines and right through that rubber diaphragm in the master cylinder. If you flush with fresh fluid you will immediately notice a firmer brake pedal. Also a look into a master cylinder reservoir with old fluid will reveal an obvious discoloration. One can often see this discoloration through the opaque reservoirs on the newer vehicles.
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