Modified Air Intake Rollcall ! ! !

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Greenville, TX
I would like to take out my OEM airbox and install a modified air intake using a big rig style canister filter.

I'd like to hear from anyone who has done this, AND
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please, please post pics.

The two vehicles I want to do this to is my 92 Honda civic and 02 Dodge Ram 1500 3.9L.

Thanks.
 
Thanks

Where did you guys get the filters?

Where did you get the parts to modify them?

Could you give a discription of how you put it all together?

I'll do this on both my vehicles, but I'd like to know how you guys did it.

Thanks
 
quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
This is the air filter on my 95 PSD. For reference to the size, that is a Group 29 battery.

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Holy Mother load @#$@#$@#$..

thats huge.. why no airbox?? And why so big? Didn't know a bigger filter would be better...
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Bigger is always better in an air cleaner. As it fills with debris, you still have open areas. Plus this on a Turbo Diesel, so the air intake is huge compared to a gas engine. The reason for no Air Box is because none would fit. Also the temp is only about 5-10 degrees hotter if the vehicle is moving. And I don't care below 35 mph because I am not under extreme power.

To make one, get the filter and you can use exhaust pipe and reducers. (I have seen PVC Pipe work also with 0 problems). I only use Constant Torque Clamps.

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Here's my stock airbox modified to work in conjunction with my ram air hood.

I had a SLP cold air intake before which consisted of a 7" K&N cone in a fiberglass box, but the dirt that passed thru it paired with the horrendous noise it made at WOT prompted me to design this setup.

It works great, performance is equal, and it's QUIET!
 
I have an Airaid Intake/Cool Air Dam installed on my 2004 6.0L PSD. I got a piece of plexiglass and cut it to match the contours on the top of the Airaid box and fastened it up. Here is the pic:
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My previous setup. It's a windshield sun screen.
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How to make it;
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My current system. I did not notice much of a gain, if any, from this, but it looks good and sounds better.
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I still wrap the pipe when it's hot. The filter is an ITG Maxogen. The box and pipe are Team SS, as designed by Mark Michna

[ May 16, 2005, 04:41 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
VaderSS

That's what I like to see, a whole brakedown of parts used. Thanks!

On that ITG setup, do you have to oil that filter? Where in TX can I see or purchase one?

Thanks, Guys!

[ May 17, 2005, 09:08 AM: Message edited by: CQUG4R ]
 
VaderSS

Did your first setup give good performance?

I have a 92 Honda civic, and I'm all about more MPG.

I'm very glad you posted your first setup, because I didn't think about using a sunscreen. That's an excellent idea! I don't care what it looks like, as long as it functions well.

If you don't mind, can you reply with any info on increased throttle response or increased MPG?

I would like to make some kind of cold air induction system for my car, so I'm open to all idea's from all posters.

Thanks again for all pics posted, the more the better.
 
With the first setup, it lowered intake temps, in stop and go, to ambient. I don't remember the exact figures, but say on a 80F day, the intake temp was 80, rather than 140.

Fuel economy? Did nothing, either way.

Throttle response and power? Much better in stop and go. Little difference on the highway.

Keep in mind that most "cold air" systems are not. If you hang a cone filter out in the heat of the engine bay, you are, likely as not, reducing power, except at highway speeds, when the air stays cool under the hood. My "Poor Mans Cold Air System" or PMCASS, actually delivers cold air to the engine.

Opening up the bottom of the airbox and "porting" the top, allows more airflow through the system.

If you want to monitor your Intake temps, and don't have scanning software, just get a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer at walmart in the automotive section. Open up the intake system, slip the sensor inside, and route the wire to avoid hot spots and belts.

[ May 17, 2005, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
I have a CAI from Intense Performance. It uses the S&B cone filter. You cannot see holes in it and it is much thicker that a K&N.
 
quote:

Originally posted by CQUG4R:
VaderSS

Did your first setup give good performance?

I have a 92 Honda civic, and I'm all about more MPG.

I'm very glad you posted your first setup, because I didn't think about using a sunscreen. That's an excellent idea! I don't care what it looks like, as long as it functions well.

If you don't mind, can you reply with any info on increased throttle response or increased MPG?

I would like to make some kind of cold air induction system for my car, so I'm open to all idea's from all posters.

Thanks again for all pics posted, the more the better.


One other very important factor for Civics and other smaller displacement 4 bangers is bigger is not always better. 3 inch intake pipes kill air velocity and consequently power. Just to let you know, most racing teams in SCCA/Grand Am that run VTEC engines (not the new RSXs) use the factory setup but slightly modified. They usually go with a Type R intake setup or convert the stock setup to a Type R as there is 1/4 the bends in the piping and no gigantic resonator at the end. Most claim this makes the most power for them, so an intake pipe is essentially an underhood beauty trinket.
 
I recently put an AEM V2 cold air intake on my '00 Acura 3.2TL with an S&B PowerStack filter and a K&N DryCharger wrap:

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This setup lightened the front end by about 10 lb and works beautifully.

When I removed the resonator, about a cup of SeaFoam poured out of it from when I had done an intake cleaning about 2 months ago!
 
Mazda 6s MTX with CP-E Intake and Mafci System
http://www.cp-e.com

+20 whp, +20 ft/lbs of torque

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Using a 7 inch S&B filter from http://www.intenseperformance.com

IAT temps are about 10-12F above ambient consistently. The intake is shielded pretty well from engine heat because of the coating.

The primary gains are from adjusting the fuel mixture from the factory 9.7:1, to a more normal 12:1. This intake also corrects the maf signal to prevent throwing idle and closedfuelloop lean check engine lights, which are a common occurance with many of the new vehicles on the market.
 
Just upgraded mine with some Lowes duct insulation. Max temps are now +20 over ambient, down from +50 with the uninsulated setup and down from +70F with the stock intake.

That is in stop and go after a 20 minute run on the highway. Few seconds of WOT, or any steady movement, and it's down to ambient. This was also true with the uninsulated CAI, but with the stocker, it took several minutes of highway speed to get it back down.

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