Mobil 1 application in small engines

btanchors · Jun 11, 2005

I have a small landscaping business and have much equipment with small gasoline engines ranging from 5 to 17 horsepower. The manuals for most of this equipment seem to recommend 10W-30, SG, SH, or SJ oil. I've begun using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30, but I am wondering if perhaps Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 might be a better choice. My reasoning:

1) MX4T has a higher flash point - 253 vs. 224 degrees Centigrade, which might be beneficial in small air-cooled engines

2) The Mobil1 web site implies the MX4T has a higher level of zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives.

Interestingly, MX4T is only SG/SH rated....

Comments?

westex39 · Jun 11, 2005

I have a John Deere mower with a 4hp B&S. I bought it new in 1979. It has mowed a lot of grass (big yard) in those years. All I have ever done to this mower is overhaul the carb and change the sparkplug. It will still pull the rope out of your hand sometimes due to good compression. I've used Mobil 1 10W-30.
I use the same oil in my riding mower, a 10 hp B&S on a Snapper mower. This mower is about 6 years old.

416Rigby · Jun 11, 2005

MX4T is good stuff. But, you can get Mobil Delvac 1 for less money, and in 1 gallon containers. Which is good if you have alot of equipment to service.

btanchors · Jun 11, 2005

westex39,

I have no doubt that using Mobil 1 of any grade is probably overkill and is better treatment than 99.9% of what all small engines get. Your experience is proof of this (Actually, I've heard similar statements from people that have actually been negligent with oil changes on small engines) But, this being bobistheoilguy.com, I'm curious as much from the theoretical standpoint as I am from what actually works in practice.

TallPaul · Jun 11, 2005

That's my concern. My mower says use an SF or SG oil and I am thinking that an SL would not have enough zddp. As it is, I soon will be running 10w30 Redline in it! Just got it two weeks ago and am running a Neutra purge with some Ace Hardware SAE 30HD mower oil.

Bror Jace · Jun 11, 2005

I think these are a lot of good routes to the same destination of superb air-cooled engine protection:

I had not thought of the MX4T before ... but in 10W-40 it should be a great pick. Even if it shears some, you will still be in solid 30 weight territory.

Of course the additive package is designed for dual duty inside cycle gearboxes as well as engines so it should be up to the task of protecting these motors even under severe, high-heat conditions.

And yes, many people here use Mobil 1 10W-30 in lawn & garden (power) equipment. This should give the best all around service in hot as well as cold weather. For warmer weather and slightly harsher duty, it can be fortified with some 15W-50.

"That's my concern. My mower says use an SF or SG oil and I am thinking that an SL would not have enough ZDDP."

I think the moly and/or boron in most SL/SM formulas make up for the greatly reduced levels of ZDDP.

--- Bror Jace

mike1qaz · Jun 15, 2005

I don't see the need for synth in small, low RPM Briggs engines if you change at least once, preferrably twice (middle and end of season) a year.

My Briggs 5.5 OHV on my LawnBoy SP rear bagger is 10 years old and still starts on the first pull and runs strongly with the dino HD30 or 15w40 I've used.

Having said that, if I used this mower as a commercial unit, I would probably go the synth route.

Bror Jace · Jun 15, 2005

"I don't see the need for synth in small, low RPM Briggs engines ..."

It's because of the high heat in air-cooled engines. Heat can break down lesser oils, thin them out and/or being to form sludge in a short amount of time.

Having said that, I don't use a 100% synthetic oil in any of my power equipment. They get either Schaeffer oils (synthetic blends) or 15W-40 HDEOs.

--- Bror Jace

msparks · Jun 15, 2005

I think the perfect lube would be a full synthetic SAE 30 Straight weight. That would be very shear stable and have pretty good pumpability in cooler weather. You don't have to worry much about cold starts since you won't be mowing in winter.

The other thing about an SAE 30 is it would have a really high flash point as well. Does mobil make something like this?

btanchors · Jun 16, 2005

msparks,

Mobil does not make a synthetic SAE 30 weight oil, at least, not one that is marketed that way. They could very well market their Mobil 1 10W-30 as a straight 30 weight oil. I do not believe any of the Mobil 1 10W-30 formulations have any VI improver additive in them, so all that would matter is whether their viscosity measurement when hot falls into the SAE 30 range.

Note that this would hold true for almost any 10W-30 synthetic - they could probably all be marketed as a straight 30 weight. Not sure about non-synthetic - they may well have some VI improver in them....

Incidentally, I emailed Mobil asking which would be better - the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 or the MX4T 10W-40. They sent a very short response indicating Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 would be an excellent choice....

Bror Jace · Jun 16, 2005

msparks, I agree with btanchors. Synthetic oils are naturally "multi-viscosity" because of the stable physical properties of the fluids in a wide range of temperatures. Take a look as to how Red Line labels their straight-weight racing oils:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?subcatID=15

--- Bror Jace

trooper99 · Jun 17, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by mike1qaz:
I don't see the need for synth in small, low RPM Briggs engines if you change at least once, preferrably twice (middle and end of season) a year.

I just bought a power washer from Sears. Haven't opened the box yet, so I'm not sure what oil it comes with, but noticed on the shelf of accessories, all the little bottles of oil were full synth from some company. It said compatible w/ all power washers. Didn't have a weight on the bottle thou. I'll check the manual to see what weight is recommended. I plan on using synth after a short break-in.

Blue99 · Jun 17, 2005

Trooper, take a few minutes to review the info in your owner's manual.

A pressure washer generally requires a manufacturer spec'd oil for the pressure pump that is formulated to withstand moisture contamination from the pump.

If it is a gasoline powered washer, an API rated motor oil will also be required for the air cooled engine oil sump.

Good luck & clean-up a storm with your new purchase!

mike1qaz · Jun 17, 2005

tropper99...I should have qualified my statement for push lawnmowers. I might put a synth in other applications.

1sttruck · Jun 18, 2005

Since I already have a bunch laying around, I'm using Mobil 1 T&S 5w-40 in my mower, which is an older Murray 3.5hp. From what I've seen PCMOs are giving up too much for petty mileage improvements and emmissions.

TooSlick · Jun 18, 2005

Use Mobil Delvac 1, 5w-40 - easily their best and most cost effective product for these applications.

You DON'T want to spend $8.00+/qt for their excellent MC oil for these motors.

TS

Islandvic · Jun 19, 2005

The pressure washer I bought with Honda 5.5hp engine states the following in the Honda manual.

"Use 4stroke motor oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API Service SH, SJ, or equivalent. SAE 10w-30 is recommended for general use."

I was going to use ValMaxLifeSyn 10/30, but discovered that I depleted the 10/30 stash and only have 5-30 left.

I will be using my M1 10/30 API SL after (2) 5 hour OCI's w/ the OEM Honda 10/30 it came with.

M1 10/30 is in my 15 year old Murray Mower w/ 3.5hp B&S and it doesn't even smoke.

Locomotive · Jul 4, 2005

I put mobil 1 in a few of my machines just for the fact that i wont have to change it for a long time. My generator with a 7.5 robin engine seems to like that stuff and since it only gets maybe 20 hours of use a year i dont have to sweat it.

Bror Jace · Jul 6, 2005

Synthetics and HDMOs also have the benefit of higher TBN retention which is advantageous when the piece of equipment is stored for extended periods ... such as an emergency generator.

--- Bror Jace

TheTanSedan · Jul 6, 2005

Speaking only to 4-stroke mowers/edgers, I've been using RL 10W-30 the past year or two becuase I had it around.

On an engine w/o a filter, one still has to change oil based on conditions/time. 25-hrs was the old max, and less in dusty conditions.

I think any quality oil will do for application I've cited. I just make sure I run FUEL POWER FP60 in gas, and LUBE CONTROL LC20 in engine oil.

Stick-on engine hour meters are, I think, still available. I simply calculate based on weekly average and season change.

I don't know how often you guys in, say, Michigan should change, but our "season" is a full seven months long. I find I change oil, air filter, sparkplug at least twice. Cheap enough, and gives me the opportunity to do an LC cylinder soak.

Interestingly, the RL has hardly darkened at all, a new thing in a 4-stroke in my experience.

Mobil 1 application in small engines

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