I have the most current engine before lawnboy called it quits with the two-stroke, the silverpro series mower with the 2stroke 6.5hp duraforce engine. Without buying a service manual, does anyone know the correct number of winds for the governor spring?
Lawnboy 2 stroke, how do I wind the governor spring?
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Just figured it out
, you have a wheel on the bottom of the air deflector of the air vane govorner you can adjust to tighten or loosen it. I'll play around with it till it runs at high and low throttle good.
If I remember right the more tension that is on the governor spring, the higher the rpms. Turn the wheel on the bottom of the vane to set rpms. Pull up on the wheel and turn it a few clicks at a time. Then start it and see how it runs. I always set it by ear as I have another Lawn-Boy I can compare it to. BTW it's a shame the two cycle engines are discontinued. I plan on keeping mine running forever as the parts should be available at least for the next 20 years or so. Both of mine have F engines.
I just tore down my "F" series self-propelled lawnboy and found these things out. The lower crankshaft engine seal was in two pieces so it was sucking air real bad. This was one of the reasons that the engine was so hard to start. The second piston ring was froze in the ring groove on the exhust port side and had some scuffing on the piston. This was proabably brought about by the bad seal causing a lean contition type sizure. The crankshaft has about .005" to .010" TIR on the lower part of the shaft. This conditiion may of caused the seal failure. However the area where the seal operates has no visual runout. The cylinder looks good with no scratches or gouges and the needle bearings seem to be all right, The crank jounals all mike to the high side of the specs without damage to them. I mowed with this mower weekly for 12 years with no problems other than the drive wheel replacement I always used lawnboy oil. Here is what I am thinking I might do: De-
carbon the cylinder and hone it, intall new piston, rings, piston pin, and new seals and gaskets and let her run! All the while keeping an eye out for another crank or short block. I really like the mower for it lightness and I have some steap angles that I need to keep mowed and don't like to whip them. What do you guys think? Am I nuts? I hate to toss it in the scrap heap, it was my favourite mower.
That's exactly what I would do too. Parts are cheap enough I would add new bearings and reed valve to the list. Don't forget to rebuild the carb either. You'll have less than 100 bucks into a mower that will last another 10 years minimum.quote:
Originally posted by mtgrs737:
I just tore down my "F" series self-propelled lawnboy and found these things out. The lower crankshaft engine seal was in two pieces so it was sucking air real bad. This was one of the reasons that the engine was so hard to start. The second piston ring was froze in the ring groove on the exhust port side and had some scuffing on the piston. This was proabably brought about by the bad seal causing a lean contition type sizure. The crankshaft has about .005" to .010" TIR on the lower part of the shaft. This conditiion may of caused the seal failure. However the area where the seal operates has no visual runout. The cylinder looks good with no scratches or gouges and the needle bearings seem to be all right, The crank jounals all mike to the high side of the specs without damage to them. I mowed with this mower weekly for 12 years with no problems other than the drive wheel replacement I always used lawnboy oil. Here is what I am thinking I might do: De-carbon the cylinder and hone it, intall new piston, rings, piston pin, and new seals and gaskets and let her run! All the while keeping an eye out for another crank or short block. I really like the mower for it lightness and I have some steap angles that I need to keep mowed and don't like to whip them. What do you guys think? Am I nuts? I hate to toss it in the scrap heap, it was my favourite mower.
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