I've decided I'm going to start running synthetic in all my small 4 cycle engines, ranging from 3.5 to 7hp. I can get Amsoil locally for $5.89/quart, or Mobile 1 for $5/quart. Which do you think would be better in a small engine? Amsoil doesn't have moly does it? Also do you think I should use a 30 weight or a 40?
Small engine synthetic - Mobile 1 or Amsoil?
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MolaKule
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B&S recommends that in running multigrades, use a synthetic 10W30. Amsoil ATM or Mobil SS 10W30 are good choices.
ZmOz,quote:
Originally posted by ZmOz:
I know they're both good choices...but which should I choose?
You're gonna be treating your engine better than 99% of the other low-horsepower, small 4-cycle engine consumer owners out there that it really doesn't matter!
Either one will work great!
Which makes me wonder........why is B&S synthetic oil, a 5w30????
"Which makes me wonder ... why is B&S synthetic oil, a 5w30?"
That's really funny!
I've said it before that they should stick to engines and leave the oil business to other experts.
--- Bror Jace
That's really funny!
I've said it before that they should stick to engines and leave the oil business to other experts.
--- Bror Jace
A very good question. Both the M1 5W-30 & 10W-30 are very close at 100C (low 10's) and grade wise, this may be sufficient at the high engine temps.
The thin grade synthetics may actually aide heat dissipation by giving up heat faster than a SAE 30 HD.
From my experience working for a supplier of molded rubber seals, Briggs won't approve anything without extensive testing. The Briggs 5W-30 syn oil approval no doubt is supported by many documented test hours.
[ April 17, 2004, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: Blue99 ]
I had a Ariens 11hp snow thrower with a B&S engine. I ran it for 10 yrs using Amsoil 10W-40 synthetic (got a case with machine was new) and in all that time it never used a drop of oil. We get over 200-300 inches of snow annually and it saw a lot of use. It was not uncommon for it to be run for 30 or more days in a row. I sold it to my neighbor back in 1996. He used it till 2002. He died and his wife sold it along with all his other toys. He never once had any problems with it and continued to change oil once a year using Amsoil 10W-40.
I have used Amsoil synthetic in all my small engines since the 1970's. I currently have it in my Ariens 13hp snow thrower, Honda Lawn-mower and use the 2 cycle in the weedwackers and chain saw.
[ April 18, 2004, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: Mike ]
I have used Amsoil synthetic in all my small engines since the 1970's. I currently have it in my Ariens 13hp snow thrower, Honda Lawn-mower and use the 2 cycle in the weedwackers and chain saw.
[ April 18, 2004, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: Mike ]
DJ - Here is the link to the Briggs & stratton oil recommendations:
Briggs Oil Chart
Zmmer - Motorcycle oils with an SH, SJ rating will have higher levels of zinc for anti-wear. However, if all Amsoil has available is a 40 weight multi- viscosity oil, you probably want to pass for small engine use. Stick with the 30 weights for better engine cooling.
Briggs Oil Chart
Zmmer - Motorcycle oils with an SH, SJ rating will have higher levels of zinc for anti-wear. However, if all Amsoil has available is a 40 weight multi- viscosity oil, you probably want to pass for small engine use. Stick with the 30 weights for better engine cooling.
I think it's pretty much overkill using a synthetic In a small engine IF it doesn't have an oil filter.
Even using dino, with proper maintenance, the engine will most likely outlast the equipment it mounted on.
On non filtered engines, I think one is better off doing more frequent oil changes with dino, than going to the "recommended" interval with syn.
It's the DIRT that kills.
I can see cases where syn would be a good choice, such as snow blowers or in EXTREME high heat conditions.
Even using dino, with proper maintenance, the engine will most likely outlast the equipment it mounted on.
On non filtered engines, I think one is better off doing more frequent oil changes with dino, than going to the "recommended" interval with syn.
It's the DIRT that kills.
I can see cases where syn would be a good choice, such as snow blowers or in EXTREME high heat conditions.
Overkill...yes. But since the lawnmower only holds half a quart it's so cheap I don't see any reason why not. I used to pay lik4 $4/quart anyway for Briggs and Stratton branded oil before I found this site. And yeah, I'll still change it more often than recommended. What kind of oil freak would I be if I didn't?
i believe that amsoil's motorcyle oil is exactly the same as thier auto oil, just a different label for those who worry about "motorcycle oil only" in thier bikes. i think both are MA and JASO rated.
Thank you Blue99. I should have been bright enough to look for that myself
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I see you are in WI, any chance you are near me or might frequent WIR or GLDW? PM if you like.
I see you are in WI, any chance you are near me or might frequent WIR or GLDW? PM if you like.
Yes, most small engines will outlast the equipment they are installed in/on but there are two (2) very good reasons to use a synthetic oil in small equipmentz:
1) As Too Slick points out, using a thinner (but better) oil frees up a significant horsepower. So, if you have a mower struggling to get through heavy grass, this might be important to you.
2) The cost. As ZmOz points out, with some sumps being less than 1 quart and oil changes only coming up once per year, the extra cost of using a synthetic oil is insignificant. Pennies per month.
I have standardized almost all my lawn & garden equipment on Schaeffer 15W40 synthetic blend because the engines seem to like the stuff (Honda tractor confirmed by UOA) and I have no need for any additional marginal horsepower in any application I can think of.
--- Bror Jace
1) As Too Slick points out, using a thinner (but better) oil frees up a significant horsepower. So, if you have a mower struggling to get through heavy grass, this might be important to you.
2) The cost. As ZmOz points out, with some sumps being less than 1 quart and oil changes only coming up once per year, the extra cost of using a synthetic oil is insignificant. Pennies per month.
I have standardized almost all my lawn & garden equipment on Schaeffer 15W40 synthetic blend because the engines seem to like the stuff (Honda tractor confirmed by UOA) and I have no need for any additional marginal horsepower in any application I can think of.
--- Bror Jace
I have a Toro lawnmower(Briggs 6hp?) due for it's before first use of the season oil change. I belive it calls for straight 30wt. Selection was very sparse, judging from Molakule's post it would be OK for me to run 10w30?
Probably pointless for me to even worry since my yard is so small, but this mower has treated me great and I want to return the favor.
Probably pointless for me to even worry since my yard is so small, but this mower has treated me great and I want to return the favor.
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