Amsoil 100:1 in Lawn Boy Mower

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Ron,

I have some customers running it in older Lawnboys that call for a 25:1 mix ratio. I'd have to check, but I believe they were mixing @ 50:1 in these motors.

I'd actually recommend the Series 2000, two cycle racing oil in this application, mixed @ 50:1. You aren't going to use much oil in this application and the S2000 will provide better protection and burn even cleaner.

What does lawnboy call for as a mix ratio with their OEM two stroke oil?

TooSlick
 
Thanks TooSlick,
I haven't actually bought the mower yet, but I believe that that recommended ratio for the newer engine is 32:1.
 
Have had a few run AMSOIL for years at 100:1 with no problems. Others have had problems--but with non-synthetic as well as AMSOIL.
For a while, the attitude was that Lawn-Boys quality wasn't good enough to run AMSOIL in them. Friends kid worked for landscaper, and two Lawn-Boys lunched within 15 minutes, right out of the box (and Lawn-Boy oil).
For a while, the cylinder bores were not properly aligned.
Not sure if the new owners improved anything.
 
My son does lawns for summer employment and does 6-8 yards per week...we have the LB you are referring to and consumer grade gas trimmers, edger, blower, etc. I have used the 100:1, but prefer AMSOIL Series 2000 racing oil mixed at 50:1. We have used this equipment very hard for the past 4 years without a single failure. Ed
 
Although I have no expierance with amsoil 100:1 I wouldnt touch the stuff with a ten foot pole. Amsoil two cycle oils are ester based. This makes them pooor canidates for use in a motor that sits for any length of time as esters attract water. I also find it comical that people even want to run 100:1 ratios as what is the advantage. There are high quality oils that burn clean and have no smoke at 32:1 ratios.
 
Ben,

I've been using the 100:1 for 10 years in my chainsaw and trimmers. You can let the engine sit for months and there is NO rust or corrosion at all. This stuff has been around since 1973 and these problems were solved decades ago. They use some very effective rust/corrosion inhibitors. I haven't tried the BP "Indopol Polybutene" basestocks, but I would be surprised if they could do better than this - of course I'm always willing to listen to the voice of experience
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I looked at a disassembled, 1993 Ryobi trimmer last week that has been running the 100:1 since new. There was almost no carbon at all on the piston crown or in the ring grooves and all the surfaces had a nice coating of oil. One of the local dealers decided to take it apart to have a look inside ....

TS
 
I beg to differ on the corrosion issue. I have delt with many ester based lubes such as Klotz, redline, maxima and they all had corrosion issues that verried in nature.
As far as the 100:1 thing goes. I just cant see the advantage. It is common knowledge that the more oil you pour into a two cycle the better the rings seal which produces higher the compression and more power. A engine run on 32:1 has to last longer than one ran on a epa mandated ratio of 50:1 let alone 100:1. BTW I have run mobil MX2T in my bikes and stihl power equipment with excellant results. Very clean, no smoke at a 32:1 ratio.
 
For one thing, when you run @ 100:1 you don't degrade the octane rating of the fuel, so you generate more power at the top end. The 100:1 burns so clean that I can and do run it in my four stroke lawn/garden equipement, to provide some additional top cylinder lubrication. I just mix up a 2.5 gallon can and run it in everything ....

I've run the Series 2000 racing oil at ratios as rich as 40:1 and it still burns really clean, but it's twice as expensive to use. I do like it better for oil injected motors than their regular 2 stroke synthetic injector oil.
 
Too slick, The octane thing is a non issue in most two stroke as they are not even close to the edge compression wise. Besides all high perfomance two stroke makers reccomend a higher oil ratio than 100:1. Most rec 32:1 or greater. As far as more power. No way. SAE papers have been written that prove in detail that a two stroke makes more power with higher oil to fuel ratios. I can also garauntee you that your motors run on amsoil 100:1 will not be any cleaner than mine run on Mobil mx2t at 32:1. most deposits in a two stroke run with quality oil actually are comeing from the low quality pump fuel we have in the us.

Bror, I havent run the redline two stroke all sport but I have run Klotz TCW3 snowmobile oil which is ester based. Tcw3 has a corrosion resistance test in the standard and I still had problems with the klotz rusting my snowmobile motors cylinders. As far as redline goes. The thing that pissed me off about them is that at first when I talked to the sales guy they denied they had a problem. I then talked to the head chemist and he admitted they had a problem but there was nothing he could do about it. He alluded to the fact that the issue was assoiciated with the ester base stock which is what I suspected. IMO the 100% ester based oils are good for nothing except all out racing and then only in very high load situations.

[ November 27, 2002, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: ben walker ]
 
you mention corrosion problems with redline oil. I have run thru 12 gallons of redline Allsport in the last five years, in chainsaws, weedeaters, blowers, motorcycles, and an ultralight and have never had a corrosion problem . Is your sled stored outdoors.I did an unscientific test of taking two wristpins and coated one with redline and one with Pennzoil aircooled twostroke oil and left them outside all winter neither one rusted.
 
I never used the all sport. It was redline two cycle raceing oil. The sled was stored in my garage.
 
Thanks ben & FLATTRACKER. I tend to believe that esters are inherently unstable in the presence of moisture but I'm not ruling out that Red Line hasn't come up with a corrosion inhibitor which can counteract this tendency.

As with their motor oils, I believe that they only put lubricant in their race oils (along with barrier additives and anti-foaming agents) which makes them unsuitable for anything other than full-race applications. For other, less bonzai applications, they can put in other additives such as detergents and corrosion inhibitors.

I'm looking for some evidence that All-Sport is similarly unsuitable for use in stock 2-cycle motors. I guess I'll keep looking.
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--- Bror Jace
 
ben, have you ever used an ester-based oil that was formulated for every day use?
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I remember you saying the Red Line 2-stroke oil you tried in your bike was their racing formula ... i.e., made for sustained high-RPM use only. I would expect that WOULD give up some useable attributes (long term stability, corrosion protection, etc ...) in the name of all-out performance. I have some Red Line All-Sport I have not yet mixed up and am curious if anyone has had corrosion problems with that (milder, everyday) formula.

I agree with TooSlick's statements about power. BUT, I'd still prefer to run things a little richer in anything I owned ... other than a competitve racer. I'll take greater durability over a smidgeon more power in almost every other application. If I foul a plug now and then, that's no big deal.
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Besides, I have yet to have a problem with plug fouling in anything I own.
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--- Bror Jace
 
" I tend to believe that esters are inherently unstable in the presence of moisture but I'm not ruling out that Red Line hasn't come up with a corrosion inhibitor which can counteract this tendency."
Maybe so, but the question is for how long. my fealing is why mess with esters when you dont need them in the first place. To many negatives in my book. Besides people proclaim them as having very high flame temps and burning very clean. This simply is not possible. The higher the flame temp the more difficult it is for the oil to combust and the more likely it is to partialy combust leaving sticky deposits.
 
Ben,

I really don't know exactly what basestock Amsoil is using for the two stroke oils ...for all I know it is also a PAO/Ester blend like the engine oils. But there are simply no issues with corrosion during off season storage ....

One thing to keep in mind is that the 100:1 contains no stoddard solvent and most other oils do, including synthetic injector oils. You need to get that pour point down in the -40F to -50F for sled use ....

happy holidays!

Ted
 
Ted, why dont you get a hold of your people at Amsoil and find out what base stock the use in it. I would be interested to know. BTW They also use toulene and other solvents as a diluant. Not all oils have them though. Mostly injector oils.

[ November 28, 2002, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: ben walker ]
 
Bror, I would also like to add to my post where I replied to you that all two cycle oils have detergants or else you would have ring sticking and port plugging problems galore.

[ November 28, 2002, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: ben walker ]
 
Ben,

The 100:1 has a flash point of 507F and a pour point of only -17F ...I really don't think this partucular oil has any solvent. The injector oils do have some and mix at richer rations of 50:1 ....

TS
 
Most two cycle oil that have diluentsonly use a small amount. I do no think that is the reason they reccomen a 100:1 ratio for there pre mix. Knowing amsoils phillosophy I would be they juiced it up with anti scuff additives to achieve the ability to run 100:1.
 
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