Just got a used 99 GTXRFI with only 57 hours. Got a good deal and this thing was a garage queen. However, I have read on other forums and from Bombi itself, that I MUST use their synthetic oil. This is a two stroke. Is this for real? That stuff is EXPENSIVE. Any body got any experience with this?
any truth in "MUST" use synthetics in SeaDoo?
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We had a 99 RFI like that for a few years. Pretty good on gas, and very quiet. Watch out for failing voltage regulators...
I wouldn't mess around with the oil spec. TCW-3 is absolutely the wrong stuff for it. There are a few dealers here and there who sell SD oil in bulk for cheaper. One dealer is PPG in florida [perry performance group]. They're on the web at sea-doo.net
There is something about the "rave" equipped motors not being able to use ashless 2 cycle oil-- I forget the technicalities. That motor in your SD has a good reputation, just keep the driveshaft lubed, pump oiled, plugs changed, and wear ring replaced now and then. Whatever you do, don't hop on someone else's '00-'01 GTX-DI, cause you will want to trade...
I wouldn't mess around with the oil spec. TCW-3 is absolutely the wrong stuff for it. There are a few dealers here and there who sell SD oil in bulk for cheaper. One dealer is PPG in florida [perry performance group]. They're on the web at sea-doo.net
There is something about the "rave" equipped motors not being able to use ashless 2 cycle oil-- I forget the technicalities. That motor in your SD has a good reputation, just keep the driveshaft lubed, pump oiled, plugs changed, and wear ring replaced now and then. Whatever you do, don't hop on someone else's '00-'01 GTX-DI, cause you will want to trade...
It is a lot less expensive than a new engine!!
10-4 on the voltage regulator, or the rectifier. Owner before me replaced it last year so should be good to go for a couple of seasons. I know the newer GTX's will smoke this one, but for what I paid, they can pass me up, I don't care. Got it for the daughter and wife. Thing will hit 60 mph, plenty as fast as I will ever want to go over water.
Appreciate the maintenance tips. Never did get a owners manual, got any suggestions where I can get one or something similar over the internet??
Appreciate the maintenance tips. Never did get a owners manual, got any suggestions where I can get one or something similar over the internet??
I like the hull style of yours and my parents' 01 GTX-DI's better than the new ones anyway. They're getting heavier and bigger with each evolution, which is why they have to keep hopping up the motors...
Good thing about the rectifier on yours. Put us out of commission for a month [we were "early adopters" at our dealer-- no one knew what to do]. If you're mechanically inclined and have tools and a place to work, you can probably do all the regular maintenance on that Sea Doo. Try calling PPG [I left the link in my previous post] about the service manual while you're checking into the oil prices. In my unscientific estimation, you'll go through a gallon of oil every 3 tanks. Maybe less if you're hammering the throttle all the time.
Good thing about the rectifier on yours. Put us out of commission for a month [we were "early adopters" at our dealer-- no one knew what to do]. If you're mechanically inclined and have tools and a place to work, you can probably do all the regular maintenance on that Sea Doo. Try calling PPG [I left the link in my previous post] about the service manual while you're checking into the oil prices. In my unscientific estimation, you'll go through a gallon of oil every 3 tanks. Maybe less if you're hammering the throttle all the time.
Quaker State has a new 2 cycle oil that is Rotax approved.
Rotax has historically had two different oils that were approved for different engines-- their "regular" oil [for the 657 and 717 series engines], and their "synthetic" oil [for the 787 and 947 series engines]. For a while they even had a specific oil for the "DI" direct injection engines. I would suspect that the QS stuff is in the first category of those oils, but I have no specific knowledge.
I don't mean to tow the company line here-- if there's REALLY a suitable, good quality replacement for XPS-II, I'd gladly use and recommend it. My parents' Sea Doos have 225 hours on their Direct Injected 947's each, with no mechanical failures of any kind, so it's hard to recommend anything but the genuine Rotax oil. And these skiis spend months at a time sitting in the water without being hauled out!
I don't mean to tow the company line here-- if there's REALLY a suitable, good quality replacement for XPS-II, I'd gladly use and recommend it. My parents' Sea Doos have 225 hours on their Direct Injected 947's each, with no mechanical failures of any kind, so it's hard to recommend anything but the genuine Rotax oil. And these skiis spend months at a time sitting in the water without being hauled out!
IMO the syn mandate had it's roots in things other than the motors life or longevity. Our dealer has been fine with reg bombi or yamalube (the two oils he stocks) since they hit the market. In his own words the XPS is way overpriced and takes some fun out of it for his customers.
Just use what they recommend, or an equivalent spec'd oil.
My brother and I use Yamalube 2-W SynBlend with YamaLube Ring Free Add on his Yama '01 GP1200R.
Why?
Cause Yama told us too.
Even at $18 a gallon, it's cheap insurance!
My brother and I use Yamalube 2-W SynBlend with YamaLube Ring Free Add on his Yama '01 GP1200R.
Why?
Cause Yama told us too.
Even at $18 a gallon, it's cheap insurance!
Ive used XPSII syn oil in sleds in the past. I stopped using it just because I couldnt stand the smell. Ask your servicing dealer what they recomend usually they will recomend the oil they stock in adition to the Bombi oil.
Any idea what the last guy was running?
What does the owners manual recomend for specs when Bombi oil isnt available
Any idea what the last guy was running?
What does the owners manual recomend for specs when Bombi oil isnt available
I'm no expert, but I have owned many PWC and several SEA-DOOs including a 99 GTXRFI.
The Non RAVE equipped motors used the dino oil. Your motor and the 951 that I have use SYN. There is a great deal of controversy about these oils, specifically the SEA-DOO XPSII which is approved for thier injected motors also.
BTW be acreful with recomendatiuons for "injetor" oil just because your motor has injection in the title. Rotax has actually had two types of 'injection' the type you have "RFI or Rotax Fuel Injection" by Bosch is more like a throttle body, much like GM v8's and is no longer used.
The newer "DI" or Direct injection by Orbital has injectors mounted in the head and the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber.
the lubing requirements are actually quite diffrent and have to do with the oil atomizing in air vs air fuel mixture, etc. The DI motors also have a third piston that has to be lubed.
Bottom line.
I will give you my opinion. Based on the fact that you have the very strong very reliable 800 motor and it is stock I would say that you can use a less expensive oil. Not a less expensive type of oil. It is critical that the use an oil sepcifically designed and formulated for your application. TWC3 oils are designed for outboards, not PWC.
I will rank my choices by price.
#1 And most expensive is the XPSII $37 gal
#2 Mobil MX2T which is now called 2R or R2, I can't remember. It is slightly less than the XPS at around $30 gal.
#3 Amsoil, Interceptor. Not Dominator racing oil(dirty) and not the Injector oil. Around $20 a gal.
I have a Stock 951 Injected Rotax. I got a good deal on 15 gallons of XPS so I run that exclusively.
I also have a slightly modded 951 that run the Interceptor in.
That motor with good oil and clean fuel will run for a very long time.
There are several good threads on this forum about this topic. I started one about the API rating and good some very good info.
Do some more research and you will come to an educated decision that you can feel confident about.
[ July 01, 2005, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: Gypsy ]
The Non RAVE equipped motors used the dino oil. Your motor and the 951 that I have use SYN. There is a great deal of controversy about these oils, specifically the SEA-DOO XPSII which is approved for thier injected motors also.
BTW be acreful with recomendatiuons for "injetor" oil just because your motor has injection in the title. Rotax has actually had two types of 'injection' the type you have "RFI or Rotax Fuel Injection" by Bosch is more like a throttle body, much like GM v8's and is no longer used.
The newer "DI" or Direct injection by Orbital has injectors mounted in the head and the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber.
the lubing requirements are actually quite diffrent and have to do with the oil atomizing in air vs air fuel mixture, etc. The DI motors also have a third piston that has to be lubed.
Bottom line.
I will give you my opinion. Based on the fact that you have the very strong very reliable 800 motor and it is stock I would say that you can use a less expensive oil. Not a less expensive type of oil. It is critical that the use an oil sepcifically designed and formulated for your application. TWC3 oils are designed for outboards, not PWC.
I will rank my choices by price.
#1 And most expensive is the XPSII $37 gal
#2 Mobil MX2T which is now called 2R or R2, I can't remember. It is slightly less than the XPS at around $30 gal.
#3 Amsoil, Interceptor. Not Dominator racing oil(dirty) and not the Injector oil. Around $20 a gal.
I have a Stock 951 Injected Rotax. I got a good deal on 15 gallons of XPS so I run that exclusively.
I also have a slightly modded 951 that run the Interceptor in.
That motor with good oil and clean fuel will run for a very long time.
There are several good threads on this forum about this topic. I started one about the API rating and good some very good info.
Do some more research and you will come to an educated decision that you can feel confident about.
[ July 01, 2005, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: Gypsy ]
****, a miracle has occured I agree with you .
"but many people like the $10 cheaper price tag, instead of buying a product that is closley priced to the Bombardier OEM oil. "
Most people are totaly ignorant of what oil their engine requires. A Rotax should only be ran on a low ash, api tc, jaso fc, or iso egd oil. Notice I said any Rotax. Its not just a exhaust valve issue. It also has to do with exhaust port and ring land deposit issues.
Most people are totaly ignorant of what oil their engine requires. A Rotax should only be ran on a low ash, api tc, jaso fc, or iso egd oil. Notice I said any Rotax. Its not just a exhaust valve issue. It also has to do with exhaust port and ring land deposit issues.
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