2-stroke oil for my Kawasaki Ultra 150 Jet Ski (Amsoil, Redline, or what?)

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Guys,

I really need some good info and help here. I just bought a 2000 Kawasaki Ultra 150 jet ski, 1200cc, 3-cylinder, oil injected, 145hp. I love this thing, it is a monster. Requires TWC-3 oil, I add it to the oil tank and it injects (not a premixer)

Anyway I need to get some oil here real soon. I bought it used had no idea what oil was in it. I have been using the Pennzoil Premium 2-stroke synthetic blend. Walmart didn't have the full synthetic or I would have got it. Now it is time to order some REAL two stroke oil.

I am looking at the Redline Watercraft oil, the Amsoil HP Injector, and I have heard good things about the Royal purple.

Redline is going to run me 22 a gallon plus shipping and the Amsoil HP Injector is going to be about $18/gal + shipping. No idea on what Royal purple costs.

****I was told the amsoil HP Injector was inferior because "Redline uses only polyol ester basestocks, Amsoil does NOT. That alone makes Redline oils superior to Amsoil each and everytime in my mind. I guess Amsoil just wants to make more profit by using less expensive, and lower quality base stocks."

Please help explain to me the pros and cons of each of these oils and what I should be on the look out for.

I was really hoping to go with the Amsoil but if it isn't as good or better than a closely priced oil (such as Redline)I will get the other brand that is better.


PLEASE HELP RECOMMEND AN OIL,
Thanks,
Seth
 
Also guys if there is another oil that is CLEARY superior and I could get it for a reasonably close price please let me know. I know other oils are good like Maxima and Klotz but they are like 35/gallon which is just crazy. I ride hard but don't need a racing oil.

I just want something that will be good to the ski and keep it lubed up nice, burn clean.

Like i've been told when I was trying to choose between the Interceptor or the HP Injector. I was told to go with the HP Injector because #1) the Injector is the TWC-3 recommeded oil and if the Interceptor was actually any better it really wouldn't give me any benefit in my application, in other words the Ultra 150 isn't going to know the difference!
 
Redline has been said to cause rusting with extended use. If I were you I would run the Kawasaki Kawa-Chem oil. It is supposed to be very good.
 
Slov???

If I was not still under warranty, I would be using the Amsoil HP Injector oil, mainly because I like amsoil oils, and I have also heard about Red Line rusting. I know almost nothing about Royal Purple, so I have not really considered it.

In my 2004 Ultra, I am running Kawi oil, so if there is any question for warranty, I can have receipts showing that I not only used a TCW3 registered oil, but the manufacturer's. I have also heard that Kawi oil is good, their site states it is a semi-syn even though no jug of it has been marked so far. I have been running it for 12 hours so far, and no problems to speak of. Appears to burn clean since the extra oil for breakin is done. Since Amsoil is not a registered oil, there may be some dispute if the failure looks even remotely oil-related. Since I put over 150 hours per year on my last JetSki and I plan on purchasing the extra 4 years of warranty, I don't want any unnecessary hassles when something inevitably goes wrong.
 
quote:

Originally posted by grcmptrnrd:
Slov???

If I was not still under warranty, I would be using the Amsoil HP Injector oil, mainly because I like amsoil oils, and I have also heard about Red Line rusting. I know almost nothing about Royal Purple, so I have not really considered it.

In my 2004 Ultra, I am running Kawi oil, so if there is any question for warranty, I can have receipts showing that I not only used a TCW3 registered oil, but the manufacturer's. I have also heard that Kawi oil is good, their site states it is a semi-syn even though no jug of it has been marked so far. I have been running it for 12 hours so far, and no problems to speak of. Appears to burn clean since the extra oil for breakin is done. Since Amsoil is not a registered oil, there may be some dispute if the failure looks even remotely oil-related. Since I put over 150 hours per year on my last JetSki and I plan on purchasing the extra 4 years of warranty, I don't want any unnecessary hassles when something inevitably goes wrong.


Yep this is Slov... Who is this?

The KawaChem oil is probably pretty good. I find it HARD to belive that Redline causes rust? What is the reasoning behind this or the cause behind it?

Just a rumor of that is enough to steer me away. I was just concerned with Amsoil using a cheaper base stock. But in the end even with the lower quality base stock it is still probably better than the Pennzoil i'm using now by far and better than the Pennzoil full syn too. Like I said its more than the Ultra would ever need and it won't be able to tell the differnce.

In your case i'd definately stick with the Kawachem oil. That 4 year warranty is going to be nice especially with 150 hours per year on that thing, that is A LOT!!!!
 
Also where are you buying the KawaChem at? I'll take a look at it price wise. I think i'm going to be going straight Amsoil though. I'll wait for some more feedback before I order. I have about 1/2 gallon of Pennzoil synth blend left and the Ultra's tank is full
 
grcmptrnrd--Same on every forum I post on since it's never taken. I rarely post, so I'd have been surprised if you recognized me. (PWCToday, PWCCentral, JetSki.com, Ultra150.com, CandlePowerForums, BobIsTheOilGuy, and many more one-timers that I've forgotten about...)

I also find it very hard to believe that RedLine would release an oil that caused rusting, but if it was designed for racing as has been suggested, a little less corrosion resistance could be acceptable. If I remember correctly, somewhere here it was also suggested that a non-destructive reaction with iron was causing elevated iron levels in UOAs imitating rust or excessive wear. Don't remember many details of that thread though, and I could have it completely wrong.

A year or so ago, I read an old informal test of synthetic 2 stroke oils in outboard engines in commercial use, and all fared well except Royal Purple, which caused excessive smoke and irritation to crew members. Can't find the link again though.

I forgot to mention in my previous post that I was strongly considering Pennzoil full synthetic too, since it is a registered TCW3 oil and full synthetic. Pennzoil claims that it has ester base stock--full or partial not mentioned--, and I have heard that it is only a little over $20 per gallon at Walmart. I am paying $19 for the Kawi oil at the dealer, so a couple more dollars for full synthetic would not hurt.

In my 1100 Zxi, I ran almost anything I could find cheap, and most of it ran fine. 6 gallons of Pennzoil Premium Plus ran well, plain old Valvoline Outboard oil ran the best, though I don't dare put that in the Ultra with its leaner oil pump calibration. I had run 2 gallons of Amsoil Series 2000 when I first bought the Zxi, and I couldn't tell any difference from the Kawi oil that was in the tank when I picked it up. The only oil I ever had that didn't run well was Citgo TCW3. Was very hard to start, would stall when giving it gas from idle, and could not run between idle and 3500 RPM. Back to Valvoline, problems gone...it's a wonder that Citgo appears to make Kawi's oil and it works so well...

Like I said before, I would go with the Amsoil if I didn't have the warranty; I was almost ready to order a couple of 12-quart packs for my 1100 Zxi before I traded it in on the ultra a couple of weeks ago.

Not sure if I'll be able to put as many hours on the Ultra as I put on the Zxi; back then I didn't have a jetski payment, so I had a lot more gas money. I haven't decided for sure on the extra 4 years of warranty yet. It is about $800 and I have until next July when my 1 year runs out to decide. Going to call Kawasaki and see if it covers pump bearings; if it does, I will definitely buy it.

wow, this has to be my longest post ever!
 
The Redline causing rust/corrosion issue was in regards to their racing 2-stroke cart oil. I haven't heard anything similar about the Watercraft or Allsport products, of which I use both.

I've used Redline Watercraft Oil in a small, old outboard and have been 100% pleased. This is by no means a performance application, but I still prefer to use high quality oil. The engine runs as well as can be expected and there is almost no visible smoke. Last time I had the spark plug out there was no visible rust/corrosion in the cylinder which I was pleased with from an engine that probably gets used
Matt
 
Glad to hear that the rust issue was confined to a single product. I now vaguely remember the cart oil discussion, but still fuzzy in my mind.

Just to add some fuel to the fire, here is Mobil's take on the PAO vs Ester base stocks:


Red Line Oil claims to have 100 percent polyolester base stocks. Are these different or better than the base stocks used in Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™?
We are very familiar with polyolesters. In fact, we manufacture them and use them in our aviation jet engine oils such as Mobil Jet Oil II® and Mobil Jet Oil 254® and in our refrigeration compressor lubricants, where the polyolesters are utilized for their compatibility with new HFC refrigerants. Polyolesters are indeed excellent at high-temperature oxidation stability and low volatility.

However, our work on automobile engines and jet engine designs has shown that polyalphaolefins (PAOs) offer the best all-around performance for gasoline engines due to their:

Being completely compatible with conventional oils and gasoline engine seals.
Providing both low- and high-temperature performance.
Providing a stable oil in the presence of water and moisture.
Having anti-rust capabilities.

[ July 12, 2004, 11:57 PM: Message edited by: grcmptrnrd ]
 
This is a link to the 2004 Certified oils:

http://www.nmma.org/certification/programs/oils/registeredoil.asp?y=2004


I am running Royal Purple 2-Cycle Synthetic without any smoke or smell problems. And in our heat/humid weather I would notice in a microsecond. 103-108 Heat Indexs lately.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=13;t=000109


cheers.gif
 
I Don’t think I would ever run a ester based syn oil in a marine application and **** would freeze over before I put Redline oil in anything of mine again.
Smoke is a symptom of a poorly tuned motor. Motors that are operating properly do not smoke when running a quality tcw3 oil at a 50:1 ratio. I should know as I personally maintain a large number of outboards for the fishing lodge I am part owner in.
 
Blano seems to know more abour 2 strokes than anyone I have ever came in contact with. I do listen to most of what he posts and would trust what he says. We agree on most things, but not everything.

I just recently changed the oil over in two 750 Kawasaki Jetski`s that were running the kawasaki oil last year and forever sence new, They are 93`s. They both had severe spark plug fouling issues every year. I changed them to the Amsoil Interceptor oil and they have ran flawlessly this year with no fouling issues at all and do not seem to be building up any residuall oil deposits or unburned oil. Everything looks clean.
 
quote:

They both had severe spark plug fouling issues every year

I would bet that your low speed and possibly high speed carb tuning is off. 9 times out of 10 plug fouling is caused by carb tuning and is not oil related.
 
So I am taking it that I should go with the Amsoil HP Injector oil and that fact that it isn't a polyol ester is ok? (Ultra won't know the difference right?)

Seems the HP Injector is more than enough for this machine correct?
 
From what I have seen of amsoil AIO I dont think it is any better than a quality tcw3 oil.
Doyou have a Phillips 66 jobber in your area?
 
Here is a good cut & paste read you might want to read.

I copied this article from another forum. There is a raging debate in the SEA-DOO world over them requiring their own oil at $35 per gallon.
Rotax specifically prohibits the use of TCW3 oils in their motors.

By Robert Verret

There are very few subjects that stir the emotions of PWC performance enthusiasts more than to ask, what 2 stroke oil do you use and why? This site has dedicated more ‘bandwidth’ to this subject than just about any other topic. Most of the discussions end up in heated debate with no one really changing anyone else’s mind on what oil is the best anyway. We tend to vehemently defend our choice as if our very reputation depended on it. I sometimes think we are more loyal to our favorite brands of oil than to our favorite brand of ski (hopefully Sea-Doo). Well, maybe we’re not quite that loyal to our oils, but close to it. If it’s any consolation, PWC performance enthusiasts are not the only group of “motorheads” that staunchly defends their choice of oil. I belong to several other performance oriented motorsport discussion groups (Ford-Diesel and Racetech-KTM) and they do it also. With all this said, let’s all take a deep breath and put our emotions and biases in a closet somewhere and try to look at this magic miracle ‘brew’ we call 2-stroke engine oil.

What’s in the stuff anyway?

2-stroke engine oils, like most other engine and gear lubricants, are composed of base oil plus an additive package. The additive package can be as simple (only one or two components) or as complex (multiple components), depending on the requirements of the oil.

Base Oil Types

Base oils compose from 50% to 95% of the total weight of the 2-stroke engine oil. They fall into 2 general categories: synthetic and petroleum based. There is a third category, vegetable, I will discuss later. Since synthetic oils are manufactured from petroleum, there has been a lot of litigation flying around about what really constitutes a ‘true synthetic’ oil in the last several years. There is no universally accepted definition for synthetic oil. Each manufacturer is free to label their product ‘synthetic’ by whatever rules the manufacturer chooses. The API (American Petroleum Institute) has defined base oils into 5 different grades or groups rather than use the terms synthetic and conventional (petroleum). The groups are classified by quality of their VI (viscosity index). The VI is a relative measure of the base oil’s ability to not thicken at low temperatures and not thin out at high temperatures. The higher the VI number, the more resistant the oil to changes in viscosity as its temperature changes. Perfect base oil would have no viscosity change at all with temperature change. Some silicone-based oils have extremely high VI, but, unfortunately, they are terrible metal lubricants, so they can’t be considered for engine lubrication. The higher the API group number, the higher the VI number. Most, if not all, high performance 2-stroke oils are manufactured using API group III and IV and occasionally group V base oils. GroupIII (hydrocracked/hydro-treated petroleum oils) are used in non-synthetic and synthetic blends and Group IV (VHVI and PAO synthetic oils) are used in full synthetic and synthetic blends. Group V (Ester synthetic base oils) is rarely used because of their expense and they do not mix easily with gasoline and they are not compatible with some other oils. There are a number of advantages to using synthetic base oil in addition to the better VI. Synthetics have a much higher flash point than petroleum base oils.

Synthetics will not decompose as easily at high engine temperatures as petroleum. The engine stays cleaner because less varnish deposits on the power valves, ring lands and piston crown. They also transfer heat better than petroleum-based oils. In summary, it’s fair to say synthetic based oils (with the correct additive package) will out perform their petroleum-based cousins at extreme loads/temperatures. I mentioned a third category of base oils earlier, vegetable or Castor (not Castrol, that’s a manufacturer) bean oil. This oil is derived from pressing oil out of castor beans and distilling it. ‘Bean Oil’ as it is often referred to, has some very unique characteristics; some very good, others not so good. The good is that it is an excellent lubricant. It seeks out hot spots in the engine and clings to those hot surfaces much better than petroleum type oils. The bad is that it does not mix with gasoline easily and it burns ‘dirty’ (excessive carbon/varnish deposits). In the early 70s, before power valves were used, castor bean oil was very popular in racing 2-strokes. Now that power valves are common and we have improved petroleum and synthetic oils, castor bean oil is seldom used anymore. Several companies still market it in the form of a degummed castor oil for racing applications only. It should be avoided for recreational use unless you enjoy tearing your engine down for a top end cleanup fairly often. Several manufacturers formulate their oil with castor bean oil as an additive (antiwear agent) rather than base oil. They blend it with their petroleum and synthetic base oils. When castor bean oil burns, it has an unmistakable ‘sweet’ smell.


Additives

If science could develop a base oil that would not thermally decompose (burn) until 1600 deg/f and not change in viscosity for –40 to 600 deg/f and not pollute the water or air, we would not need any additives in the base oil. Wouldn’t it be nice if all the oil collected in the expansion chamber body stayed in the same pristine state it went into the engine? We could simply recycle it. Well this isn’t going to happen in our lifetime (sorry, not even you younger guys will ever see this). Lubrication science is just not there yet. Additives are combined with the base oil to fix certain faults with the base oil or stretch the limits of the base oil in some cases. Additives are complex chemicals that account for most of the cost of a bottle of 2-stroke oil. Additives for 2-stroke oils fall into several general categories: Detergent/Dispersants, Antiwear agents, Biodegradability components, and antioxidants. Since the lubricating oil must burn as part of the combustion process in a 2-stroke engine, the residue resulting from this combustion process must be swept away after each firing stroke. If not, the residue (varnish, lacquer and other heavy hydrocarbon compounds) would build up and plug the exhaust port and stick the rings and power valve(s). Detergents/dispersants must be added to the oil to prevent this problem. The two types of detergents/dispersants most commonly used in 2-stoke oil formations are Ashless and Low Ash. Medium Ash and High Ash detergents are not used in 2-stoke oils. Ashless detergents are used in low temperature applications such as TCW3 oils where the ring land temperature is held below 300 deg/f. These detergents work well in engines where an excess of cooling capacity is available and power valves are not used. Ashless detergents are manufactured form organic nitrogen compounds (Hydrazine) instead of heavy metal compounds; therefore, they produce no ash as they are burned away. This is where the name “Ashless” comes from. Oils containing this type detergent have a characteristic Ammonia odor. Ashless detergents were used in the first generation of Bombardier XPS engine oil. The formulation was later changed to a low ash type detergent because of the higher temperatures generated by the 787 engines. Low Ash type detergent/dispersants are used in most API-TC, Jasco FC and ISO GC certified 2-stroke oils. These oils are designed for air-cooled high performance engines that operate under severe load/temperature conditions. Low Ash detergents can keep the deposits to a minimum at ring land temperatures as high as 400 deg/f. These detergents are manufactured from compounds of Calcium and Magnesium (heavy metals). After these compounds (Calcium Phenate or Magnesium Phenate) do their job, they burn away, forming a heavy metal salt (ash) that is swept away during the normal combustion process. Hence, this is where the name Ash-type detergent comes from. Ash type detergents depend on the higher combustion temperatures (787 and 951 engines) to keep the resulting ash swept out. Therefore, the use of these high performance oils in outboard or other mildly tuned 2-stroke engines is not recommended. Some manufacturers are using a combination of detergent types (Ashless and Low Ash) to provide a broader range of uses for their oil. It is important to note that oil designed to meet TCW3 specs. only (Ashless) will not protect an engine requiring API-TC (Low Ash) type oil. The converse is also true. Using a Low Ash oil in an engine designed for an Ashless type oil only could result in fouled plugs and gummy combustion chambers. When 2-stroke oil is kept in its temperature limits, it provides an adequate protective film between all moving parts. When that maximum temperature is exceeded, the oil film breaks down and usually seizure occurs unless another line of defense is added to the oil mixture. These are the Antiwear agents. These Zinc compounds (Zinc Dithiophoshate) flow in with the oil and are never used unless the base oil breaks down. If the base oil breaks down, they form a protective barrier between the moving parts (usually piston skirts and cylinder walls).

Since all 2-stroke engines partially burn and expel their lubricant in the exhaust, the resulting exhaust residue must be rendered harmless to the environment (air, water and land). All 2-stroke oil intended for marine use and many intended for land recreational use contain Biodegrading agents. These complex chemical compounds allow the microbes found in water and in the soil to consume the hazardous chemicals and oil from the exhaust as they fall in the water or on the ground. These Biodegrading agents do nothing for the performance of the oil (sometimes they even hinder it), but they help assure us that 2-stroke engines will be around for a while. As you can see, 2-stroke oils are a mixture of many different complex chemicals with base oil. Each specialty chemical has a job to do. Care must be taken to assure that these different chemicals detergents/dispersants, Antiwear agents, and Biodegrade agents) do not react or interfere with each other or otherwise impair the function of any other additive. Antioxidants are chemicals that reduce the chance of reaction between the various additives in the oil mixture. They effectively extend the ‘shelf life’ of 2-stroke oils.


What does ATP-TC and TCW3 mean?

Specifications for 2-stroke oils are developed from the design of the engine and its intended use (no surprise). Since this type engine has a wide variety of applications its no surprise that the specifications for the oils might vary also. For marine and PWC application there are 2 widely accepted standards for certifying 2-stroke engine oils. These are, by no means, not the only standards for 2-stroke engine oils. The European (ISO) and the Japanese (JASCO) standards have been developed, but these standards are not widely accepted in the country (yet). The standards most used in this country are the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMATCW3) standard and the American Petroleum Institute (API API-TC) standard. Both of these standards address the oil ability to prevent wear, keep the engine clean and biodegradability. Since these standards were written for different types of 2-stroke engines it stands to reason these standards would be different. Hence, the oils developed from these standards would also be different. The NMMA TCW3 standard was designed by the various manufacturers of outboard motors (Mercury, OMC, Yamaha etc.). These manufacturers so not utilize power valves, limit their max rpms to about 6800 and have excessive cooking capacity. They also must be able to operate at lower rpms for long periods of time without oil fouling the spark plugs. Although it’s true the performance of this type engine has increased in the last several years, the peak engine temperatures are still relatively low. The use of synthetic base oil in TCW# formulations has extended the useful range of these oils; their detergent system (Ashless) is designed for lower operating conditions. This is one of the reasons Bombardier specifically prohibits the use of these oils in their Rotax engines. The API API-TC standard was developed for Air-cooled, high rpm, high output 2-stroke engines operating under severe load conditions. Although this standard is no longer reviewed and updated since 1993 b the API, it still is in effect today. This standard most accurately addresses the condition Rotax and 2-stroke racing motorcycles and snowmobiles operate under. Almost all these oils are formulated with synthetic or synthetic blend base oils and all use a low ash type detergent. If you walk into a store that handles a variety of 2-stroke oils, it is relatively easy to find TCW3 certified oil. The manufacturer proudly displays that certification on each container. API-TC certified oils, on the other hand, are very difficult to find. There are two main reasons for this. First, many small API-TC oil manufacturers can’t or won’t spend the money (about $75,000) for the testing and certification process. Second, most engines requiring API-TC oils are for racing applications (Motocrossers and Crosscountry motorcycles) and don’t offer warranties with their engines anyway. The owner/operators of these machines know what oils work and don’t work. They do not need the API-TC certification on the bottle to help them decide what oil to use. There are many really good API-TC type oils on the market that have never been certified as such. Bombardier/Rotax is the only manufacturer that API-TC certified oils. The TCW3 market is about 10 times the size of the API-TC market. Outboard motor manufacturers require the use of TCW3 certified oils to maintain their warranty. With this great volume in oil sales at stake, it’s easy to see why TCW3 manufacturers can afford to certify their oils.


Rotax’s Position on What Oil to use
As we all know, Bombardier requires that an API-TC oil be used in their engines. Most other PWC manufacturers allow the use of TCW3 in their engines. So, what’s the difference? A PWC is a PWC, right? No, it’s not! Rotax marine engines evolved from their very successful snowmobile and motorcycle racing designs. These engines produce more power/cc than any other PWC manufacturer’s engine. Rotax designs these engines to work harder and run hotter than other brands. They simply need more protection than TCW3 oils can give. Those that use TCW3 oils are risking high temp. Seizure if the engine cooling system plugs or and internal fuel filter plugs (lean condition). These things may not happen very often, but when they do, it’s better to have a little extra protection that only a API-TC oil can give.


So, what’s the best oil to use?
I truly believe there are no bad oils anymore (well, maybe a few really cheap ones are not so good). Most problems with oils are the result of misuse. I had a friend once that insisted on mixing STP with his premix. He swore his motor made more bottom end with STP in the fuel. Well, it may have, but he invested considerably more $$ in spark plugs than just about anyone else on the planet. He was also responsible for single handedly stunting the growth of the entire mosquito population in southeast Texas (thank God he quit riding). I hear a lot of complaints about the high cost of some 2-stroke engine oils, mostly Bombardier XPS. Well, I have to agree, it isn’t cheap, but neither are any of the other API-TC oils compared to the TCW3 type oils. Unfortunately it just costs more to manufacture API-TC oils than TCW3 oils. Despite its relatively high cost, I cannot recall any Rotax engine failing because of XPS oil. XPS oil was a joint development of Castrol and Bombardier. Bombardier wanted a ‘universal’ high performance engine oil that they could use in all their recreational products. That meant oil would flow freely at –40 deg/f and still maintain sufficient film strength at 350 deg/f. The first generation of XPS (1995) was formulated using Ashless detergents; this allowed the Rave valves in the then new 787 motor to stick. The formula was later changed (1996) to a low ash detergent that eliminated the rave valve sticking problems. There have been several minor improvements in XPS since 1996. Castrol remains the only manufacturer of XPS. This is a proprietary blend sold only by Bombardier.

There are a number of good API-TC type oils out there if you chose not to use XPS. If the oil you want to use does not have the ATP-TC certification on the container, contact the manufacturer. Most of them will be more than glad to provide you with information on their products.


Decisions, Decisions!
Well, I hope I answered most of your questions concerning 2-stroke engine oils. I’ve tried to keep brand names and my personal biases out of it so far. However, I, like you, have an opinion. My opinion is based on my 30 years experience working with 2-stroke motors and my relationship with some very knowledgeable people involved in lubrication research. I work for the world’s largest manufacturer of oil additives. We make the additives for virtually all the oil retailers.

Now having said that, here are my recommendations. If you have a Sea-Doo PWC that is still in warranty: Stay with XPS or XPS-DI. Sure there are API-TC certified oils that should preserve your warranty, but in an engine failure the dealer could cause you grief getting your PWC warranted. In my opinion, it’s just not worth the hassle to do battle with them. Stay with the XPS at least until the warranty expires. After the warranty expires, select API-TC oil that carries the certification or confirm in writing the oil you want to use is designed for your PWC. Then find someone else that uses the oil you are considering and get his or her opinion. Do not use TCW3 in your SeaDoo PWC. I don’t care if it’s a full synthetic or your brother-in-law uses it; for the reasons stated above, it will not protect your motor when conditions get tough in your motor.
 
quote:

Originally posted by blano:
From what I have seen of amsoil AIO I dont think it is any better than a quality tcw3 oil.
Doyou have a Phillips 66 jobber in your area?


Blano,

Are you saying the HP Injector isn't worth it?
It has to be better than the Pennzoil oils doesn't it? It isn't going to be anymore expensive either.

The only other oil I can get locally is the Pennzoil premium synthetic blend (TCW-3 rated) but I hear it builds up in the engine with deposits. Also have heard Castrol 2-stroke oil mentioned I think but again nowhere to get it.

I really need some help deciding. I want something that will be great for the motor, not be stupid expensive or more than I need. I mean overkill is overkill in this case and I don't need something totally overkill.

I need more info/opinions/recommedations on what I should use.

[ July 13, 2004, 10:45 PM: Message edited by: Seth_TJ ]
 
quote:

Are you saying the HP Injector isn't worth it?

YES.
FWIW The article posted has quit a few errors in it. It does some what explain the differance between tcw3 and air cooled oils and why they do not interchange.
 
quote:

Originally posted by blano:

quote:

Are you saying the HP Injector isn't worth it?

YES.
FWIW The article posted has quit a few errors in it. It does some what explain the differance between tcw3 and air cooled oils and why they do not interchange.


Then you would recommend what for me? (so I can research it more)


And I mean is the Pennzoil better? (the full synthetic) I can order it online for a little bit more than the Amsoil HP Injector (yes the pennzoil is going to cost more).
 
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