NEO Synth 10W-30 VOA

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I dont think anyone has done a VOA on a NEO oil yet, so here ya go! This is NEO's 10W30, their site states that it is a 100% diester based oil, and here are their stats for it:
VI= 185
Viscosity @ 100 deg C= 11.75
TBN= 8
ASH= 1.03
Flash= 470 deg
Pour= -49

Here is Blackstones report:
We don't know what type of oil this is, but it certainly uses a lot of lead as an additive. We
are glad you sent this in, so when we see a sample from your engine we can attribute the high lead we will find to your oil, and not your bearings. Silicon read high in this oil too, so make a note of that as well when you send in an engine oil sample. The TBN of this oil read 15.8. No moisture or insolubles were present in the sample.

ALUMINUM- 1
CHROMIUM- 0
IRON- 2
COPPER- 0
LEAD- 170
TIN- 0
MOLYBDENUM- 0
NICKEL- 0
MANGANESE- 0
SILVER- 0
TITANIUM- 0
POTASSIUM- 0
BORON- 59
SILICON- 12
SODIUM- 2
CALCIUM- 3563
MAGNESIUM- 422
PHOSPHORUS- 1704
ZINC- 1916
BARIUM- 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210 = 60.2
Flash = 390
TBN = 15.8

So, is this oil worth $10 a quart? Im new to this site, so I have no idea what all of this means yet, so if the experts here could translate I would appreciate it.
 
Well, that oil sure ain't API approved.
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I wonder what all the lead is for?
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More ZDDP then Redline!
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TBN of 15.8? Not familiar with this brand.
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The lead has to be either Lead Dialkyldithiocarbamate (PbDTC) or lead oleate. These are EP and oxidation inhibiting additives.

The sulfur reading would most likely be around 0.55% or higher for this additive to function properly.

This stuff is usually used in heavy industrial oils and greases. Never saw this stuff in a modern PCMO until now.

Primary AW add is ZDDP.

Good dose of calcium as a secondary AW additive, DD, and high TBN maker.

Primary friction modifier is diester base fluid and alkylamines.

Appears to be more of a SF-SH rated oil.

I would think this oil would create more ash deposits than most oils.

[ November 11, 2003, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
neosyntheticoil.com

Thats their site, and they do rate the oil as an SH oil (I just thought the site was out of date), and nope-there are no API ratings for this stuff. Their claim to fame is that its a racing oil, but its more expensive than Red Line and is harder to get. So this is not a good oil for a new vehicle?

[ December 10, 2003, 04:20 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
Almost none of the boutique oil are API certified. Most have too much Zink or other AW/EP to be certified with API. It would probably hold up well being diester based. THe only way to know for sure is to run it and do a UOA. I have to say that the price would stop me. I draw the line at $7 a quart!!

I do wounder why it is so expensive. I was under the impression that diester base stocks were rather reasonable today.
 
quote:

I draw the line at $7 a quart!!

Yeah, me too. Redline and Delvac 1 are my top end. It is tough to justify paying that much. When something costs 9 dollars a quart MORE than Chevron Supreme it had better be the mother of all oils.

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patriot.gif
 
Good summary Molacule.

Jason8691 => Thanks for posting this VOA. Many of us were eagerly awaiting a VOA on NEO.
I would not use this oil is a new car. Why? Comes to mind. If there is an oil that's a candidate to violate all known new car warranties, this is it. I can debate P poisoning of cats, but Pb at 170 ppm to start - what about hazardous material? And that's not even mentioning the ash issue.

Love to see a UOA on this, though
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Thanks Molakule ,
Why do you say it might create more deposits? High Ca and ZDDP? Yet the ash % is much lower than even M1. Isn't the ash % accurate?

Jason8691 , awesome! Thanks for posting. I assume you will do a UOA also. Can't wait. I would not worry about it in a new vehicle. I am using Red Line in a GTP under warranty. And from hearing peoples' warranty experiences, it seems 99.9% of the time oil is not even considered. I would only worry about losing warranty when you go physically modifying engine and tranny parts.
 
"Thanks Molakule , Why do you say it might create more deposits? High Ca and ZDDP? Yet the ash % is much lower than even M1. Isn't the ash % accurate?"

They are only reporting the "sulfated" ash, not the total ash deposits from all of the metallic additives.

[ November 12, 2003, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
I dont know if Im going to spend $50 for oil plus shipping and another $10 for a filter! I did this to see if this oil was worth the money and would be a good idea to to put im my truck. From what Im reading it doesnt look like its worth the expense plus the shipping-plus a UOA. If I could drive down the street and get like I can Red Line I might do it. So someome else will have to do that UOA!

[ November 12, 2003, 01:21 PM: Message edited by: Jason8691 ]
 
I think its worth $10 a quart if you can get at least 15k miles without a bad UOA.
 
Thanks for the analysis Jason8691. I think the oil is a good candidate for motorcycles. NEO is very close-mouthed about their oils. They don't tell much on their website and they don't say much more if you call, so it was good that someone has finally done a VOA.
 
Actually about the ash...I suppose that % could be wrong. There is no date on the website, but I believe it is pretty old. Could have reformulated since then.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jason8691:
I dont think anyone has done a VOA on a NEO oil yet-*-*-*

I don't think so as well.
Thanks for the post... Been wondering about this stuff.
That's a chunk of change for the cost per quart....
Wonder how long does it take to pay for itself?
 
I dont think it could pay for itself. The cost of 5 qts of oil plus shipping totals over $60, it just doesnt make sense when you can get quality oils just down the street for half the price. And if you add in a good filter and regular UOAs, your talking serious money! **** this VOA cost me $50, that was 1qt of oil and shipping plus the cost of the test. My truck would have to get 5 miles per gallon better to make it worth while! Im really glad this site exists or I probably would have gone ahead and experimented!

[ November 13, 2003, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: Jason8691 ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jason8691:
-*-* Im really glad this site exists or I probably would have gone ahead and experimented!

You probably still will, least a little Hugh?
As far as not paying for itself... we've all been there.

Frankly I think it's great that someone has posted this oil here. I wish someone would do a BG. Anyway, it's only by sharing on our information or "TESTS" hehehehe that we do, that
we can benefit. The thing is that there should be a section devoted to "The Mad Science of Oil Experiments - He He He Heeee !!!!) and where we can HASH out an EXPERIMENT that at least a couple are willing to try, and see how this random mess we call order really computes.
 
The price is just insane! I think I would take that quart you have and either mix it in with you next OCI or use it to top off between changes. One way I got rid of oil was in my GEO Metro. Each time I di an oil change on any of my family members vechiles I would drain each bottle into a 5 quart jug. I would also drain 1/4 and 1/2 quart bottles into the jug. Usualy between 6 months to a year down the road that 5 quart M1 jug was full. I would use this mix match brew of oils to do oil change on my GEO adn to make home made gun oil.
 
I will probably use it to top off. Or I may put it in my lawnmower and see what happens! I do agree though, that price is ridiculous, and thats the main reason Im not willing to experiment with it.
 
Here's an idea what it can be used in,
how about marine engine use (carb'd, no cat's)?
say... a 3.0L GM inline-4 cylinder, that turns 4000 rpms all the time?
 
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