So my ZX-6E has basically set for the last 8 months, with minimal riding, and therefore, even with stabil, has some gummy carbs. Here is my question. Do I need to take it somewhere and have the carbs cleaned and synced, or do I just start ripping stuff out and spraying it with brake cleaner, following the manual and instructions, or do I start throwing additives in the gas and ride the crap out of it?
Gummy carbs
- Thread starter Shaman
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Carbs can be a pain. Fuel stabilizer helps keep the gas fresh inside the tank but does not do much for the carbs.
Your best bet is to drain the carbs completely everytime you store your bike. This will help but is still not full proof.
I would remove the carbs and clean them up good. Compressed air used along with starting fluid (ether) or brake clean is good.
Make sure to remove all jets, orifices, and needles. Remove the float, needle and seat assembly. Be sure to use a proper sized screwdriver or risk buggering the brass. Pipe cleaners are handy. Be very careful regarding carb cleaning chemicals. They can eat aluminum, brass, seals, and orings.
Reassemble carbs making sure to check float levels. Do not over tighten the brass orifices or seat!
It is rare to need a carb kit unless you find something buggered.
Get her running and give it a fresh sync. You can do that yourself too with an inexpensive mercury vacuum gauge.
You will save yourself a good hundred bucks even after buying the sync tool.
Your best bet is to drain the carbs completely everytime you store your bike. This will help but is still not full proof.
I would remove the carbs and clean them up good. Compressed air used along with starting fluid (ether) or brake clean is good.
Make sure to remove all jets, orifices, and needles. Remove the float, needle and seat assembly. Be sure to use a proper sized screwdriver or risk buggering the brass. Pipe cleaners are handy. Be very careful regarding carb cleaning chemicals. They can eat aluminum, brass, seals, and orings.
Reassemble carbs making sure to check float levels. Do not over tighten the brass orifices or seat!
It is rare to need a carb kit unless you find something buggered.
Get her running and give it a fresh sync. You can do that yourself too with an inexpensive mercury vacuum gauge.
You will save yourself a good hundred bucks even after buying the sync tool.
I would start with draining the tank and the float bowls. Then I would run some straight carb cleaner into the carbs and let it sit for a day or two, then put fresh gas in and see what happens.
I just got my race bike started after it sat for at least a year and a half, and the carbs were clean as a whistle! I drained the tank and put fresh gas in but it sat all that time with race gas in there, I think its purer and doesn't have as much garbage as regular gas.
I just got my race bike started after it sat for at least a year and a half, and the carbs were clean as a whistle! I drained the tank and put fresh gas in but it sat all that time with race gas in there, I think its purer and doesn't have as much garbage as regular gas.
And I thought Gummy Carbs was some post about candy!
Would all this be unneccessary if you ran stabil through the tank and into the carbs before shutting it down for storage? I do that with lawn mowers, but, I don't know if it is a good thing to do for a motorcycle.
Would all this be unneccessary if you ran stabil through the tank and into the carbs before shutting it down for storage? I do that with lawn mowers, but, I don't know if it is a good thing to do for a motorcycle.
I posted on ZX6E.com and was told to check the fuel for water first. WIll be "draining" the tank(riding 1431 at high RPMS), then pulling it off and see what is going on.
Running a few ounces of MMO in the tank will stop varnishing in the carbs.
8 months with stabil isn't too extreme IMO? have you seen that the carbs are gunked or just assume?
pilot jets on a 600- 4 are real tiny, 1st thing that'd clog. If it starts and idles fine after choke is off and warmed up, 99% the pilots are clear and your good to go. Wouldnt hurt to drain the tank and bowls though as a preventive? But as much tupperware as needs to be removed, I'd try running it 1st for sure.
pilot jets on a 600- 4 are real tiny, 1st thing that'd clog. If it starts and idles fine after choke is off and warmed up, 99% the pilots are clear and your good to go. Wouldnt hurt to drain the tank and bowls though as a preventive? But as much tupperware as needs to be removed, I'd try running it 1st for sure.
Hey,
I know this is an old post , but for gummy carbs me and a few friends do this :
before you fill your gas tank, put in 10% mineral oil, 4 liter tank = 400mls of mineral oil
then go for a long highway trip, 2-3 hours.
fill up with gas and be done,
if your carbs are really gummed up, then do this on your second fill up, and go for another rip...
also using MMO or a very light solvent every other fill up, will help to prevent gumming in the future.,
peace and safe riding.,
oh and for your next bike maybe go with FI,
I prefer it 10x more than carbs., and much easier to maintain.,
nik
I know this is an old post , but for gummy carbs me and a few friends do this :
before you fill your gas tank, put in 10% mineral oil, 4 liter tank = 400mls of mineral oil
then go for a long highway trip, 2-3 hours.
fill up with gas and be done,
if your carbs are really gummed up, then do this on your second fill up, and go for another rip...
also using MMO or a very light solvent every other fill up, will help to prevent gumming in the future.,
peace and safe riding.,
oh and for your next bike maybe go with FI,
I prefer it 10x more than carbs., and much easier to maintain.,
nik
The next bike will be sometime. The bike got sold while I was home.
I know the thread's main point has passed, but...
Yes, leaving fuel in the float bowls for more than a few months will cause jets and emulsion tubes to become clogged. Fuel stabilizer will add a little time to that, but eventually the fuel AND the stabilizer forms serious deposits. I used Berryman's fuel stabilizer, and after 6 months in the carbs, everything was coated with what appeared to be blue lacquer!
In my experience, there is no in-tank or spray cleaner that can remove such deposits in a meaningful way. The only thing that's ever worked for me is Berryman's Chem-Dip, and ONLY for metal parts (anything plastic or rubber will dissolve in the tank!). Don't get any on your hands; the carcinogenic warnings take up more of the label than the product name!
I generally just replace pilot jets. They are so hard to get thoroughly clean, and getting carbs in and out is such a pain, that replacing them for around $10 in a four-cylinder is cheap insurance. If I can get them easily, I'll replace main jets as well. I usually dip-tank air jets, idle mixture screws, and emulsion tubes. Are removing them from the dip, I spray with spray carb cleaner (Gumout is my favorite), and reassemble. Check for warped or sunken floats while you have everything apart, and check for consistent float height.
Such is my experience from ten years of rebuilding motorcycle carbs professionally.
Yes, leaving fuel in the float bowls for more than a few months will cause jets and emulsion tubes to become clogged. Fuel stabilizer will add a little time to that, but eventually the fuel AND the stabilizer forms serious deposits. I used Berryman's fuel stabilizer, and after 6 months in the carbs, everything was coated with what appeared to be blue lacquer!
In my experience, there is no in-tank or spray cleaner that can remove such deposits in a meaningful way. The only thing that's ever worked for me is Berryman's Chem-Dip, and ONLY for metal parts (anything plastic or rubber will dissolve in the tank!). Don't get any on your hands; the carcinogenic warnings take up more of the label than the product name!
I generally just replace pilot jets. They are so hard to get thoroughly clean, and getting carbs in and out is such a pain, that replacing them for around $10 in a four-cylinder is cheap insurance. If I can get them easily, I'll replace main jets as well. I usually dip-tank air jets, idle mixture screws, and emulsion tubes. Are removing them from the dip, I spray with spray carb cleaner (Gumout is my favorite), and reassemble. Check for warped or sunken floats while you have everything apart, and check for consistent float height.
Such is my experience from ten years of rebuilding motorcycle carbs professionally.
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