best oil for a bike?

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I have an 05 zx6r... high compression high redline motor (15.5k rpm)...


Right now I'm trying the rotella-t full syn 5w40... anything you guys specifically recommend?
 
RP's Racing 41 or Racing 21
wink.gif
 
cheesy,
if you look in the motorcycle uoa section, you will see a LOT of info. sorting the wheat from the chaff is not to hard either.
basically it comes down to this:
regardless of the oil you choose, change it OFTEN!!!

but go read the cycle uoa section too.

rubber side down,
steve
 
quote:

Originally posted by Achilles:
RP's Racing 41 or Racing 21
wink.gif


Ho-no not racing oil, it usually doesn't have any long term properties added because it is changed so often. Not a good oil to use for every day use even in a high performance engine like a ZX6's.

I use Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive and change it at no more than 3K. Never a clutch slippage problem and over 100,000 miles on 3 different bikes with engines still pulling strong in each.
 
Cheesy, what viscosity does the owner's manual recommend? I'm guessing a 40- or 50-weight.

Unless you're doing short OCIs (1,500 miles) you have to get some UOAs to determine how much blow-by your particular motor generates and how well your oil and air filtration systems work. Some bikes have great filtration systems that will support longer OCIs, but many don't, so it's best to remain conservative with your OCIs until you can determine how good your bike is.

Also recognize that your transmission will shear the heck out of almost every oil in very short order, so you want to find an oil that uses the fewest viscosity index (VI) improvers. These oils have the smallest spread between the "W" rating and the API weight. For example, a 5W-40 has a 35 point spread and probably has a fair amount of VI improvers. A 20W-40 has only a 20 point spread and probably has very few VI improvers. Also, synthetic oils need fewer VI improvers than conventional oils, so if you can afford synth it'll stay in grade longer than conventional oils.

So, to start out with short OCIs (1,500 miles) I'd use a 15W-40 conventional oil (any of the HDEOs like Rotella, Delo, etc.). Note that the Rotella 5W-40 that you're using isn't a true synthetic (Group IV or V); it's a highly refined conventional motor oil (Group III).

If you start doing UOAs on this oil you should be able to safely increase your OCIs to the maximum your particular bike can achieve. You'll likely find that you'll need to switch to synth to keep the oil in grade, though, and Redline 10W-40 seems to be highly resistant to shearing.

Lastly, LubeControl (LC) is a good additive that will help prevent oxidation and prolong your oil's useful life. If you're willing to tolerate mucking around with additives, it's a good one.
 
hmm..

I stopped having a lot of faith in UOA when a coworker took 4 samples of the EXACT same oil from his truck..(I helped him take them.. cleaned the pan, rinsed it. removed the drain bolt and let it drain 10-15 seconds, then took one large sample and divided it into 4 smaller samples and sent them off) two to blackstone and two to a local company. ALL 4 samples were very different from one another... even from the same lab..

So.. anyhow.. I have read on the kawasaki forums that people recommend the 5w-40 full syn rotella.

owners manual states:
API SE, SF, or SG
API SH or SJ with
JASO MA

vicscosity varies with atmospheric conditions, but 10w40 is generally recommended.
32F and up 20w50
32F to 104F 20w40
14F and up 10w50
14F to 104F 10w40
14F to 86F 10w30

I typically don't ride when it's 25 and below.. let alone 14. It won't get up to 104F again this year, let alone 86F.
 
also... I am not worried at all about OCI's.. I change the oil every 1000-1500 miles. In all honesty.. the bike has about 3k and the oil has been changed at:
~100miles
250 miles
500 miles
900 miles
1400 miles
2000 miles
2600 miles
3100 miles


Mainly because I was trying different types of oils. At this point I am much more concerned about engine life/wear than HP or OCI's.
 
I'm a fan of Shell Rotella T 15W-40... the recommended oil for my bike is 20W-40.
 
Okay.. after spending much of my day off today looking at threads in this forum.. I think I'm going to go to mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 permanently.

Only downside is a completely unexplained reason for using lots of oil... i.e. having to add oil between changes. any ideas why?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Truck&Cycle:

quote:

Originally posted by Achilles:
RP's Racing 41 or Racing 21
wink.gif


Ho-no not racing oil, it usually doesn't have any long term properties added because it is changed so often. Not a good oil to use for every day use even in a high performance engine like a ZX6's.

I use Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive and change it at no more than 3K. Never a clutch slippage problem and over 100,000 miles on 3 different bikes with engines still pulling strong in each.


R you kidding me?? RP's Racing oils are the best oils offered on the market today, we've got film strength, 400% more than any other oil.
The Racing oils offered by RP will the ultimate protection as well as extending the oil drain intervals much longer than any other oil.
blush.gif


So what you actually saying is that RP's racing oils can't handle high RPM??
wink.gif


Record MPH

2004
AA / Fuel
Speed Week
Mike Nish
373.907 MPH

Nish Motorsports is installing a 673-cubic-inch Aries Big Block naturally aspirated Chevy engine. Tom Klein of Chandler, Ariz. built the new engine which is capable of 3000 horsepower.

"Racing 41 or 51 when we run gasoline. All of the engines are suitable to run both Fuel and Gas. The 5 speed air shift Liberty Transmission and rearend will use Max Gear - Gear Oils. We use Ultra Performance Grease NLGI #2 in the wheel bearings. We also use Purple Ice in the radiator."

Now you tell me there oils are not for high RPM and high speeds????
twak.gif
 
MX4T is like what...6-8 USD Qt.?
No thanks...I'll use M1 15w50 Gold Cap before I'd waste money on the 4T.

I saw Gold Cap on sale at NAPA for $4.59 qt.

Which brings me to another option...
NAPA labeled 15w50 full synthetic. $3-4 USD qt.
Basically a full synth Valvoline. (Ashland)
 
Cheesy, to maybe satisfy your curiosity about Shell 5w40 Syn being another great oil for the money and service life in your bike we have 12 Kaws and 1 FZ1 that all are running 5W40. Two of the bikes are wifes ZX-6r 03 and an 05 ZX-6R. Hard to beat Walley Worlds price of around 13D. None of the bikes use oil and all have at least two oil (seasonal) changes per year. At least here the Shell oils are cheaper than Mobil bike oils so easy dicision. All bike specific oils work well just had to go with the least expensive for this many motors to care for and the oil is working well.
 
quote:

Originally posted by cheesy:
Okay.. after spending much of my day off today looking at threads in this forum.. I think I'm going to go to mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 permanently.

Only downside is a completely unexplained reason for using lots of oil... i.e. having to add oil between changes. any ideas why?


I came to the same conclusion after doing a lot of research myself. It's a good oil and if you buy it at WalMart then it's really not that much more than the 15W-50 gold cap. BTW...my bike doesn't use a DROP of oil with the MX4T.
 
It is more $$... but I can deal with $30 more every couple k miles.... it's a brand new bike, and worth it. If it was a used bike w/ 20k miles then maybe not.
 
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