Automobile Oil for Motorcycle Oil

[oua]

Hello everyone. This is my first post. Please try to be unbias with your replies. Thanks.


A little history about my oil usage. Base on the facts that: (1)I keep my change interval short and (2)I don't race and (3)the climate I live in is coldest -10 F to hottest 90 F --- I don't find a need for synthetic oil. The benefits that synthetic oil offer I am unable to harvest.

I use Mobil Clean 5000 ($1.17 a quart) and OEM filters for both my automobiles.

2005 Toyota Sienna w/ 8000 miles.
2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder w/ 1400 miles.

My automobile change interval is very 3000 miles or 4 months which ever comes first.


I have a 2003 Honda CBR600F4i w/ 900 miles. Due for it's second oil change at 1000 miles soon. I want to consider other alternate engine oil beside "Genuine Honda MotorCycle Oil."

Price per quart of oil is not the issue here. I can afford $10 per quart of Mobil MX4T Synthetic if "NECCESSARY."

I just don't want to be the "IDIOT" that paid extra for a repackaged oil with a new motorcycle label on the bottle when I can get as good, or perhaps better, in automobile oil.

The manual for the Honda CBR600F4i say I need "SG/SJ" or "JASO MA" w/ "NO Energy Conserving" w/ "SAE 10w-40"

I plan to have a change interval of 1500 miles or 4 months which ever comes first for my motorcycle.


The question:
Would it make sense to use the oils below?

(1st choice) Mobil Clean 5000 SAE 10w-40 API SM/CF No Energy Conserving
(2nd choice) Shell Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5w-40 API SL/CI-4 No Energy Conserving

Please share your expert unbias facts.

If there are better alternative - I am open to suggestions too.


Thanks

[ April 21, 2005, 11:31 PM: Message edited by: oua ]

 

[LVHospiceRN]

First of all

You should get a pretty good range of responses with this question. In reality, i am not really sure it matters. If the bike is in warranty, by all means follow the owners manual recommendations. If not, change the oil and filter regularly and just enjoy the bike. The oils you mentioned were fine.

I run Mobil 1 15W-50 in my harley simply because i am convinced it offers better high temp. protection and i ride stop and go here in vegas, at times 115 degrees....again, while i am convinced it gives me a bit better protection, not really sure it matters in the long run.

Just IMHO
darrell
sin city

 

[road_rascal]

I also have been using Mobil 1 (red cap) 15w/50 in my '97 Honda air/oil cooled 750 Nighthawk. I have run it up to 6,000 miles between oil changes w/o problems and the TBN still read 8.6. The 'red cap' stuff is getting harder to find so then I'm going to switch over to Mobil 1 5w/40 Truck and SUV oil, which doesn't contain any friction modifiers, isn't energy conserving and has a base TBN of 12.

 

[fastbear]

Don't want to pay to much for a good oil then try 5-40 SYN. Rotella. I run it in motorcycle engines after 2K miles. Rotella was available at walley world for about 13$ a gallon. 15W40 Rotella is half the price. I change at 5K miles. We are running water cooled v-twins, singles, and 4 cylinders to 165 h.p. Absolutely no issues. Have 14 late model motorcycles so oil quality, price, and availability are top concerns. Lots of good oils available, at reasonable prices.

 

[Baveux]

Castrol Grand-Prix 4 stroke is an SG avalaible in 10w40 and 20w50 , thats all you need.People worry too much about their oil and not enough about their diet....

 

[RJCorazza]

I ran Amsoil 10w40 AMO (synthetic) in my BMW last winter. I currently run Amsoil 20w50, which is the viscosity spec'ed by BMW.

I understand your position that synthetic oils are best suited for extremes, however, most consider bikes to be "extreme". Your CBR is certainly capable of being run hard!

Go with a top shelf synthetic and double (or triple) your 1500m OCI and enjoy more riding time.

 

[honus402]

The newer "car" oils don't contain enough Zink/Phos for a M/C engine, especially air-cooled M/Cs.
The good news is that HDEOs contain more than enough. If your M/C specifies a 40 wt., then you couldn't beat Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella 15W-40s. At $6-$7 per gallon, they offer the most bang for your buck.

 

[Reg# 43897]

I have been using Shell RTS in my FJR to good effect. You cannot beat the value of the stuff and it has a great track record in bikes. D1 would be a great oil as well, but it can get expensive (same as M1 TSUV it seems). Nothing at all wrong with the mentioned HDEO's - I've used regular RT and it was fine. In my opinion, if you choose to use a mineral oil, use Delo, RT, etc.

I am assuming that your machine is off-warranty. If it ain't, you had better run all of this past your service manager.

John.

 

[LVHospiceRN]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Baveux:
Castrol Grand-Prix 4 stroke is an SG avalaible in 10w40 and 20w50 , thats all you need.People worry too much about their oil and not enough about their diet....

---

Hey, i resemble that! Changing my oil is alot easier than changing my diet...

darrell
sin city

 

[oua]

The bike still have 3 year 11 month warranty left on it as of today.

Both
(1st choice - automotible oil) Mobil Clean 5000 SAE 10w-40 API SM/CF No Energy Conserving
and
(2nd choice - diesel oil) Shell Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5w-40 API SL/CI-4 No Energy Conserving

"EXCEEDS" the "SG/SJ" or "JASO MA" w/ "NO Energy Conserving" w/ "SAE 10w-40" requirements by Honda.

I doubt these oil will VOID the warranty. If so - it will be API's fault.


I keep my interval short because less contaminant/sludge and less acid and less breakdown = happy engine. The time interval usually comes before the milage interval. I just don't ride my bike as much as i like to.

The TRUTH is - if you can afford a $7500 bike a $20 on oil change won't kill you.

The CONTRADITION is - I just think motorcycle are over rated. I think they are automobile oil that been rebottled and extra Zinc Phos added. They are simply ripping off their customers.

If I am wrong. Please do educate me.

 

[RJCorazza]

If you are content with a 1500 mile OCI, then any 10w40 or 5w40 weight JASO MA oil will be fine. No sense in dumping a top-shelf synthetic every 1500 miles.
I am currently adjusting my OCI with Amsoil 20w50, and am looking at a minimum of 5000 miles to possibly 8-10k miles. This interval is with 1 micron off line filtration which keeps the oil cleaner particle wise than new oil in the bottle. I support long OCI's with oil analysis and am nearing 20k & 10k on my autos (both have bypass filtration).

 

[rg144]

I really liked how the Rotella-T syn performed all of the riding season last year. Then I ran some Havoline 10w40 before storage and rinse this spring. I would agree though that it is less than ideal to continue to run a PCMO. My Suzuki calls for a 10w40 so it seems like a good way to get some fresh oil in for the months sitting in the garage.

 

[fuel tanker man]

Regular Rotella, 15W40... much better than any car oil you'll find. Lots of zinc and phos, robust base.

I wouldn't change it at 1500 miles, though. Go to at least 2500 miles. We've actually gotten great reports on the Rotella 15W40 dino oil in our heavy trucks after 25,000 miles--the zinc and phos were still very much intact. Those are ten gallon sumps, true. But I think you can run 2500 mile OCI's of Rotella 15W40 and do just great in your Honda.

Dan

 

[ki-speed]

I've been using Mobil 1 MXT 10/40 and Mobil 1 V Twin 20/50. I would like to stay with Mobil 1 products. I would would prefer to stay with heavier weight oil. Since Mobil 1 V Twin is now a pain to find I'm looking at alternatives. If the choices are between the new Mobil 1 SUV 5W/40 and the new Mobil 1 EP 15W/50 gold cap (replaced red cap) which would you chose? Which would protect better? I live in Texas. It gets hot! I'm leaning towards M1 15W/50.

Thanks,

ki-speed Mark

 

[fuel tanker man]

Mark,

It would depend on what bike/engine you've got. If the manufacturer recommends 40 weight oil, go with the SUV stuff. If a 50 weight is specified, go with the 15W50 "goldcap" as it is now...

Dan

 

[Mackelroy]

(((1st choice) Mobil Clean 5000 SAE 10w-40 API SM/CF No Energy Conserving
(2nd choice) Shell Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5w-40 API SL/CI-4 No Energy Conserving)))

I only know 1 person who shredded a clutch shortly after installing mobil 10w40 car oil. The rotella T syn is very clutch friendly will work well for 1000 miles or so.

If running several thousand miles, I'd run the $8 stuff or higher. I've never seen any oil for my riding that doesn't contaminate by 1500 to 2000 miles.

 

[goldwing]

quote:

---

Originally posted by oua:
Hello everyone. This is my first post. Please try to be unbias with your replies. Thanks.


A little history about my oil usage. Base on the facts that: (1)I keep my change interval short and (2)I don't race and (3)the climate I live in is coldest -10 F to hottest 90 F --- I don't find a need for synthetic oil. The benefits that synthetic oil offer I am unable to harvest.

I use Mobil Clean 5000 ($1.17 a quart) and OEM filters for both my automobiles.

2005 Toyota Sienna w/ 8000 miles.
2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder w/ 1400 miles.

My automobile change interval is very 3000 miles or 4 months which ever comes first.


I have a 2003 Honda CBR600F4i w/ 900 miles. Due for it's second oil change at 1000 miles soon. I want to consider other alternate engine oil beside "Genuine Honda MotorCycle Oil."

Price per quart of oil is not the issue here. I can afford $10 per quart of Mobil MX4T Synthetic if "NECCESSARY."

I just don't want to be the "IDIOT" that paid extra for a repackaged oil with a new motorcycle label on the bottle when I can get as good, or perhaps better, in automobile oil.

The manual for the Honda CBR600F4i say I need "SG/SJ" or "JASO MA" w/ "NO Energy Conserving" w/ "SAE 10w-40"

I plan to have a change interval of 1500 miles or 4 months which ever comes first for my motorcycle.


The question:
Would it make sense to use the oils below?

(1st choice) Mobil Clean 5000 SAE 10w-40 API SM/CF No Energy Conserving
(2nd choice) Shell Rotella T Synthetic SAE 5w-40 API SL/CI-4 No Energy Conserving

Please share your expert unbias facts.

If there are better alternative - I am open to suggestions too.


Thanks

---

I ride a 2002 Honda Goldwing. I ran 15W40 Mobil 1 Delvac 1300 Dino for the first 31,500 miles. Finally sent of an analysis with 5,000 mile on the oil. Wear metals were extremely high. Switched to 5W40 Mobil 1 Syn Truck and SUV. Bike shifts much smoother. Will send off analysis at 5,000 mile and see if wear metals have improved.

 

[DNS]

[/qb][/QUOTE]I ride a 2002 Honda Goldwing. I ran 15W40 Mobil 1 Delvac 1300 Dino for the first 31,500 miles. Finally sent of an analysis with 5,000 mile on the oil. Wear metals were extremely high. Switched to 5W40 Mobil 1 Syn Truck and SUV. Bike shifts much smoother. Will send off analysis at 5,000 mile and see if wear metals have improved. [/QB][/QUOTE]

Although I believe the Delvac 1300 probably does as well as a motorcycle specific oil, I've always thought the oil change intervals specified by most of the manufacturers were too long for maximum engine life. I run a full synthetic with changes at about 5k miles or every 4-6 months.