Thumper considerations?

[Blake Sobiloff]

Hi y'all!

I'm looking forward to picking up a new-to-me 1999 KLR650 in a couple of weeks, and so I'm wondering if there are any significantly different lubrication needs for a single cylinder engine. Are big thumpers harder on engine oil than inline fours? Would certain additives be more beneficial than others? The KLR650 still uses a choke (really a fuel enrichener), so I know I'll have to be careful in its use so that I don't get a lot of extra fuel in the oil. Anything else to look out for?

In case you aren't psychic, the KLR650 is a single cylinder engine w/ 4 valves, 651cc, 9.5:1 compression ratio, water-cooled, four stroke, carburated dual sport motorcycle. It makes about 40 HP on a good day, revs to less than 8,000 RPM, and the specified oil pressure is only 14-23 PSI at 4,000 RPM, so its not a very stressed engine. In fact, the entire bike is pretty well known for its durability. The manufacturer calls for filter changes every 3,000 miles and oil changes every 6,000 miles, using 10W-40 to 20W-50. The engine is substantially unchanged in the 18 years this model has been made. I'll probably have it on roads of one sort or another for 99% of the time; I don't have any plans for serious off-roading with it.

Thanks!

 

[Reg# 43897]

I really doubt that your machine is gonna beat up it's oil very badly. As you indicated, it is a pretty low-stress outfit. Most importantly it is liquid cooled. I have a Yamaha SRX-600 single that is air cooled. It would likely be harder on it's oil versus yours on the virtue of it's cooling. I have run M1 15w-50 and various sythetic 20w-50's. What I have not tried in it is HDEO 15w-40's or 5w-40's which would likely work well. Perhaps RTS would serve well.

John.

 

[KW]

One of the HDEO's would work well for you. One of my favorites it Rotella T 5W40. For a "fancier" oil Amsoil AMO/AMF 10W40 is a good deal.

 

[wileyE]

Blake, my 92 KLR has been very happy with 15/40 delo or rotella. When you do the filter pay attention the washer and spring parts get put back in in the correct order. Kawasaki filters don't come with a new o ring for the cover (not really needed every change) Frams usually include it and are fine for this application (lot of fram bashing here). The filter cover is a snug fit, DO NOT try and pry them off, pull it straight out while tapping on it if its' stubborn. To get ALL the oil out you need to pull a plug that is right under the filter housing, not really needed but it gets that last bit out if you worry about stuff like that. One rumor is the sight glass was positioned for original klr500 and 600 motors that had centerstand, on our sidestand bike filling only to mid sightglass with the bike balanced level is the correct amount. If you get it a little more no worries, done it many times. I've done a bunch of stuff with my 650 and another 600 so any questions just ask before you spend money. Great bikes! I ride mine every year in a 1000 mile 2day charity ride just to be different, though I have other bikes I could take.

 

[Blake Sobiloff]

Thanks, guys!

Changing oil's a bother, so I'd like to find an oil that could last a year/10,000 miles in the bike. I'll probably use up the Mobil 1 red cap and Rotella T (synth) I have first, see which viscosity the bike likes better, then look at other oils.

wileyE, I've heard the same generally positive comments about Fram's cartridge-style filter for the KLR650, but I think I'm going to get a K&N filter and see if its really made of semi-synthetic media. If so, that's probably the filter I'd prefer to use.

Lastly, Carl Elden agrees that the oil sight glass is too low and he believes that underfilling the bike leads to oil starvation in some of the splash lubricated bearings at the top end. See Carl's oil change page for more info, and his technique for filling to the correct level. (Great site for dual sport bikes in general, too.)

 

[Vstrom]

quote:

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Changing oil's a bother, so I'd like to find an oil that could last a year/10,000 miles in the bike. [/QB]

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HOLY CRAP

I'd never leave ANY oil for 10,000 miles in a bike, but that's just me

How much of a bother is an engine rebuild

 

[Blake Sobiloff]

quote:

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Originally posted by Vstrom:
HOLY CRAP

I'd never leave ANY oil for 10,000 miles in a bike, but that's just me

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I said I'd like to find an oil that could go that distance. Wouldn't anybody? Whether I will find it or not, who knows?

I'm thinking of doing UOAs and checking the TBN at 3K intervals for the first 6K, and then 1K UOAs after that. Does that sound reasonable?

 

[Mackelroy]

I agree with Carl on KLR 2000 miles. IMO a water cooled bike that has seperate tranny may go 10k but, I haven't had one of those type bikes to test.

From my perspective any water cooled bike that rountinally hovers around 8 to 10,000 rpm and shares tranny oil, if you want to keep it MINT condition for the longest period of time, 1500 to 2,000 miles.

Klr isn't water cooled but the last oil analysis I saw on one at 4k mile oil change, showed alot of oil detioration and contamination. That was with Rotella T synthetic, which I think is a very usuable oil in an MC.

 

[srivett]

I don't think such an oil would be available. The average 10 year old bike has about 10K miles on it in total.

Steve

 

[Blake Sobiloff]

quote:

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From my perspective any water cooled bike that rountinally hovers around 8 to 10,000 rpm and shares tranny oil, if you want to keep it MINT condition for the longest period of time, 1500 to 2,000 miles.

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Highway RPMs will be in low to mid 5K range. There's not much point in wringing it out because it doesn't make a whole lot more power on top.

Also, I know a fellow who's maintained a 6,000 mile OCI on his KLR650 using Mobil red cap with great success. He has over 60,000 miles with this regimen, including a lot of off-road miles, and the bike still runs perfectly. So, at least anecdotally, it seems like its possible to have extended drain intervals. I guess my UOAs will tell the tale!

quote:

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Klr isn't water cooled but the last oil analysis I saw on one at 4k mile oil change, showed alot of oil detioration and contamination. That was with Rotella T synthetic, which I think is a very usuable oil in an MC.

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Actually, the KLR is water-cooled, but thanks for the tip on the UOA; I'll hunt around for it. I, too, admire the Rotella T synthetic.

 

[TooSlick]

I have a long time customer in Florida who owns a couple of fairly large displacement KTM's, including a KTM 520 model. He's been running 5k-6k service intervals with the Amsoil 10w-40/AMO formulation with no deterioration in shift quality. I'd expect you could do the same with the Mobil 1, MC oils in this type of application.

TS

 

[Mackelroy]

Actually, the KLR is water-cooled, but thanks for the tip on the UOA; I'll hunt around for it. I, too, admire the Rotella T synthetic.
_________________

OOphs my boo boo>G< your right . Had DR650 on the mind.

That posting wasn't on this site, it was from the shell site forum. Probably been a year since seen, it was a KLR650 though and Tested at a 20weight oil at 4k miles.

 

[jarmstrong]

my dad has a klr 650. its a great bike. i run amsoil 10w40 in his and it works great. he lowered it a little during the winter, added a center stand, and lowered the gearing a tooth. can't wait to try it on the back roads now.
still doesn't look as good as the norton and bmw its stabled with.