BMW airhead w/ 16k miles oil choice

[Huhwhye]

This is my first post. I have been a lurking for a while.

I just purchased a 95 BMW R100GS with 16k miles on it. The bike is mint and I want to take care of it as best as I can. I bought this bike for long trips and plan to put 15k+ miles a year on it. So using the right oil is important to me.

1st - my airhead friends (who are not oil experts) tell me that these motors take a long while to break in due to a very hard nickel coating on the cylinder walls. And that synthetic is not advisable until 25-30k is on the motor or you risk glazing. What are you thoughts on that? I am a firm believer in using Syn and have been using it for years in my cars and bikes.

2nd - Being air cooled, temps get high when sitting still so I want to make sure I use an oil that can handle the heat and protect the motor. It's a dry clutch bike so I don't need any special MC oils made for wet clutch bikes. In fact wouldn't I want to take advantage of an oil that had friction modifiers?

 

[Steve128]

Congratulations on the bike.

I as well have been watching and reading on this board for quite some time.

As for synthetic oil, seems to be most advantageous for air cooled engines. Many members, far more knowledge than I, have stated using synthetic oil from the get go is fine. You may want to visit vfrdiscussion.com and see what Scootr has to say about this very topic. He tests engines and oils for a living. He has vast resources of data which he shares. Unlike others, he provides direct scientific evidence.

Enjoy your bike.

 

[Huhwhye]

I understand the benefits of using syn. But what about BMW's specifically? Do they have different requirements. I have been told the rings aren't seated yet because of what BMW used on the cylinder walls.

And if I were to use a Syn oil, which is best for a dry clutch motor? Don't I want friction modifiers since the motor has dedicated oil.

 

[Reg# 43897]

I find it hard to accept that the rings would not have seated by now. BMW has a depth of engineering expertise that is enviable. Though they persist in executing some wonky design with their bikes

, they make good stuff. Have you inquired of a dealer with a good reputation? Whenever I see air-cooled (I have an air-cooled thumper among other things) I think 20w-50 or 15w-40. I do not know what the air-head specifies for oil weight. I run Rotella T synthetic in my FJR and M1 15w-50 in my SRX 600 (thumper) and experience no problems.
I would check around about any specific provisos for the air-head, but synthetic oil should be in that machine imo.

John.

 

[Huhwhye]

I will go and talk to a BMW tech today. But the manual specifies

API Classifications, SE, SF, and SG; combinations with CC and CD specification

And specifies 20w50 for temps between 20* to 120*, that's probably best

It states that a 15w50 is good up to 100 degrees. I live in California and it will see that easy.

A 15w40 is good from 0 to about 85 degrees.

 

[Jelly]

Given it's a dry-clutch, has an oil cooler, and possibly has the RID that shows oil temperature on the "bar scale", I'd certainly be tempted to try out M1 0w-40!

* Mercedes MB 229.5
* BMW Longlife 01
* Porsche Approval List 2002
* VW 502.00/505.00/503.01
* GM-LL-A-024 (gasoline)
* GM-LL-B-025 (diesel)
* ACEA A3, B3/B4
* API SM/CF
* ILSAC GF3

code:

---

cSt @ 40º C 80

cSt @ 100º C 14.3

Viscosity Index 187

Sulfated Ash 1.2

HTHS Viscosity 3.6

Pour Point, ºC, -54

Flash Point, ºC, 236

---

[ February 07, 2005, 01:51 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]

 

[Reg# 43897]

Alright. Seems that a 20w-50 would be best. Given that you are in California and it cools itslef with the oil as well as air, I would use the 20w-50. I am curious about the statement not to use a 15w-50. The first number is for cold start-up only, once both oils are up to temperature, they will perform as 50-weight oils. However, the closer the spread on the numbers, the stronger the oil - usually!

John.

 

[Jelly]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Huhwhye:
I will go and talk to a BMW tech today. But the manual specifies

API Classifications, SE, SF, and SG; combinations with CC and CD specification

And specifies 20w50 for temps between 20* to 120*, that's probably best

It states that a 15w50 is good up to 100 degrees. I live in California and it will see that easy.

A 15w40 is good from 0 to about 85 degrees.

---

Those recommendations are bogus!

Following those, that would mean M1 15w-50 couldn't perform as well as a mineral 20w-50 in HT/HS scenarios...yeah right!

And I'll put a big-name HDEO 15w-40 (Delo, Delvac, Long-Life, Rotella) up against a mineral 20w-50 in this engine and operating conditions any day of the week!

I believe the olefin oligomer M1 0w-40 with its great approvals and specifications could kick-butt in this application while optimizing efficiency!

 

[Huhwhye]

I just realized most motorcycle shops are closed on Mondays. So I will have to call them tommorow.

Regardless, I plan to have analysis done when the oil I put in for this change comes out. Because I can't tell extacly how long the oil currently in the bike has been there.

That oil analysis should answer questions as to how the motor is doing and how well whatever oil I choose performs. I guess I just wanted to make the right choice.

 

[RJCorazza]

I have read/heard about the BMW's break-in period of 20k, but not higher. I switched my 96 K1100rs over to Amsoil synthetic at 16k. I am running the 10w40 for winter, and will put 20w50 in the spring. My manual alludes to "Special" 10w40 oils that are acceptable - I take that to mean quality synthetics. I would NOT put a 10w40 mineral oil in your bike.

 

[Johnny]

I have a lot of friends with BMW that think a lot of the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oils.

Back in 1985 I lived in Dallas and had a BMW R100. Everyone said run 20W50 in it, but after 3,000 miles I put in regular Mobil 1. Back then Mobil 1 was a 5W20. I put 110,000 miles on that bike before I sold it and never had a problem. Gets plenty hot in Texas during the summer.

I don't believe they did any special coatings to the cylinders back then.

Nice bike

 

[KW]

For an off the shelf synthetic the M1 15W50 looks like a good choice to me. A well built bike that that should not have to have a fancy oil to make it last a long time. Any of the name brand synthetics should work just fine.

 

[wileyE]

I ride with a few newer boxers, RS and Rt's. They used oil until they were well over 10,000 miles so I'd say there may be something to the slow breakin. The dealer here tells everyone NO synthetic till you get 10k, they use and sell BMW and golden spectro mineral oils at the shop FWIW. My expereince with aircooled bikes (4 cyls) run hard in the hot desert is they destroyed every oil I've tried. Syn, diesel, bike, car, you name it. It was toast at about 1000 miles. Shifting degraded and the oil would look like foamy water after highspeed multi hour rides. Took hours for the oil to settle back out. Got to where I just bought 20w/50 sale-oil and dumped it real often as i couldn't see where the "good" stuff was holding up any better.

 

[scooter996]

Use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 It was designed just for air cooled engines. On a v-twin the rear cylinder always runs hotter due to the fact it isnt in the line of air flow to keep it cool so it counts on the oil to do that for it. Even though your BMW boxer engine has the heads coming out of the sides and are in the air the 20w50 will work perfectly. The 20W50 is actually a parade oil for the Harley guys. Resists heat very well.

 

[TxRider]

Take a look at some of the BMW m/c owners sites, there is a lot of good info there about what to use for oil for the airheads(R100's) as well as oilheads(R1100's). Most of those guys are very tech oriented and speak from experience.
On the slow breakin of Nikisil engines- I saw this first hand on a different engine than yours, a BMW R1100RS. I ran dino, BMW brand, 20w-50 visc and used about 1 1-2 qts every 3000 miles from 14,500 when I bought it until it reached 24000. Oil consumption dropped to virtually none at that mileage which re-enforces my belief that ring and cylinder honing is a slow process in some BMW m/c engines.

 

[BMWShep]

Huhwhye & Friends..............


Please use ONLY Golden Spectro 20-50 in der Beemer!!! Most of the Airhead Gurus will tell you this is the best oil for airhead engines. It is a "blended" Dino/syn lube made my Spectro Oil company (yes, the same company that makes the oil for BMW North America). There have been volumes written on its ZDDP content ad nauseum, check out their web site and also the Airhead tech pages on BMWMOA forum.

Newer Oilhead and K-Brick owners use synth oils almost exclusively, but NOT in the Airheads...


Ride Smart....

 

[Propflux01]

Just use what the owners manual tells you.

 

[DNS]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Huhwhye:
I understand the benefits of using syn. But what about BMW's specifically? Do they have different requirements. I have been told the rings aren't seated yet because of what BMW used on the cylinder walls.

And if I were to use a Syn oil, which is best for a dry clutch motor? Don't I want friction modifiers since the motor has dedicated oil.

---

The friction modifiers are for improved gas mileage. What you're really interested in are antiwear additives and the oils overall lubricating properties. Since your bike has a dry clutch, it makes no difference whether or not the oil you use has friction modifiers.

 

[Norm Olt]

M1 15W-50 in 5 quart jugs are typically $4 per quart @ WallyWorld. You can find top-off oil almost anywhere you may go.

My PERSONAL choice w/b Amsoil ARO 20W-50 100% synthetic as it will easily meet all of BMW's criteria.

Now don't expect it to make your bike shift any better like my ZX-11 & Valkyrie did when I went to Amsoil...

CHEERS!

 

[Bagger_Matt]

The BMW dealer in my area specs BMW oil for $10 a qt. But a tech there told me and a friend he runs 20w50 castrol GTX dino in his? I ride a Harley Dyna superglide aircooled and run M1 15w50
with no problem. Ps. BMW makes a great bike, I ride my buddies 1100rs from time to time.