Can someone name all oil suitable for M/C

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I can vouch for delvac 1300 for wet a clutch . It has a little dose of moly.I ride motocross some sand some hard pack,I ran it for a year without clutch slippage,before the delvac I was running the amsoil 10/40 for a year,I ride altleast 2 times a week.

The shift forks had no shine marks whatsoever,also the crosshatch marks looked brand new. If I had a set of new shifts forks beside my current ones ,you could not tell the difference. I was getting clutch slippage,but my basket and pressure plate was shot(after 2 years). Not too shabby,the metals had bluing on them (heat)the thickness still measured within spec . I will blame the bluing with the plates on the pressure plate being worn down,not putting enough pressure on the plates causing them too slip,causing heat. I switched over to rotella just for a few rides after the new clutch no problems with it,but I went back to the delvac I was very impressed with the internals of the tranny!!!!!
 
I was just reading some of the issues of Motorcycle Consumer News that have piled up on me and a fellow wrote in about oil ratings and the Magazines mechanic said the the JASO MA rating is essentially identical the the old API SG rating and you can use the new oils rated SH in Motorcycles with no worries as long as you use 15W and above like 15w-40, 15W-50. This was the Sept. 2004 issue page 9.
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Update on Shell Rotella.

The flashpoint of Rotella 15/40 is 451 F.

Rotella 5/40 synthetic is available in Canada (it was not 2 months ago) and is Allison C-4 rated.
 
I'm considering these two 15W40 oils: Mobil Delvac 1300 and Shell Rotella T for an air cooled Suzuki 1200 Bandit. I see the Ash is 1.5 for Rotella and 1.3 for Delvac. How important is that difference if the OCI is every 1800 miles?
 
I have heard that ash levels of 1.20 or lower to be best. Most diesel specific oils have higher ash levels because of the higher detergent levels. Simply put, diesel engines create more combustion by products and need longer intervals between oil changes, therefore higher detergent.
Its my opinion that ash content is minor compared to the other oil specs like Flash Point, TBN, PP, and Ht/Hs.
In an air cooled bike engine I would be looking for very high FP, TBN, and ht/hs.
You may want to consider a 20/50 for summer temps as well. Most 20/50 oils are very robust.
 
That may have been accurate in 1994 but 10 years of emissions control and energy saving rules have come and gone since that was wrote.

Car oils are different. Car oils are forced to meet emissions and energy saving guidelines. Car oils now have a lot less zinc and phosphorous now. Car oils have greater amounts of additives including moly which is bad for bike wet clutches.

Bike and diesel oils do not have as strict restrictions as do cars. There is pressure on diesel oil makers to meet Jaso DH-1 ratings. The main aim is to lower sulphur content in oil. This is great for us - higher quality oils. Group 1 and 2 oils have the greater amounts of sulphur. Group 3 is highly refined petroleum oil with less sulphur and sulphur is not an issue with group 4 and 5.

I would be wary of using any car formulas today. But the diesel and bike oils are pretty safe.

It all ends with personal preference. I started using Castrol products in the 60s and continued to do so until last year. That was until I did a bit of research.
 
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