What oil for an oil using quad?

[Chris142]

I know, I know. The thing needs rings, valve guides, seals or all three. But I cant afford any major repairs right now.

It's a kawasaki Mojave 250cc 4-stroke. Needs Jaso-Ma oil.

What I have noticed. With Motul 10w-40 synthetic it uses 1/2 qt in 60 miles.

Same with Mobil one motorcycle oil.

With Amsoil 10w-40 Syn motorcycle oil it only uses 8-12 oz in 100 miles.

Should I try 20w-50? Do ya'll think it would slow the consumption some?

What about dino? I have some regular Valvoline 20w-50 car oil which has little or no wet clutch killing Moly.

Or just straight weight oil? Sae40? Would a straight weight last longer before it gets burned?

The recomended oils are 5w-30 10w-40 20w-40 and 20w-50.

I live in the desert so I'm not concerned with how well the oil flows at -44 deg.

 

[sbc350gearhead]

I would probably be inclined to try a straight 40. Or maybe add some schaeffer's EP 132 to your current oil.

 

[Jelly]

You know, for all the talk of it, I've never had a problem using an oil with moly (As long as it was a non friction modified oil) in several wet clutch applications.

Has anyone else?
What oil were you using?

I'd suggest starting out with M1 15w-50...

 

[Chris142]

I did have a problem once. I was using Torco oil which we know is loaded with Moly. This was over 2 years ago.

I would let the clutch out and the bike would not move for 3-5 seconds, then it would grab and take off.

I drained it and have been running Jaso-Ma oil since and have not had any clutch problems.

The amount of Moly in "Normal" car oil probly is not enough to affect the wetclutch.

 

[tmorris1]

I have seen lots of bikes and ATVs that slip when using a regular automotive oil, but then I have seen some that work fine. I question how long a clutch will last using regular automotive oil though.
I don't think it is going to matter what you run in that engine until you get it fixed. It sounds like you are using an awful lot of oil.

 

[msparks]

How may hours/miles do you have on this ATV? If it's relatively new, I would switch back to dino for a while until the rings and such breaking/seat.

New equipment can use excess oil until those parts "wear" in a bit. Once that excess consumption is over, then changing to a synthetic will help stop that "wear" in proceedure, and reduce oil consumption.

If it's an older vehicle, I would make sure there are no leaks, if there are none, a 20w50 should help reduce that consumption.

 

[Chris142]

quote:

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Originally posted by msparks:
How may hours/miles do you have on this ATV? If it's relatively new, I would switch back to dino for a while until the rings and such breaking/seat.

New equipment can use excess oil until those parts "wear" in a bit. Once that excess consumption is over, then changing to a synthetic will help stop that "wear" in proceedure, and reduce oil consumption.

If it's an older vehicle, I would make sure there are no leaks, if there are none, a 20w50 should help reduce that consumption.

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No leaks.

The quad has many,many hours of riding time. It's only 3 years old and I had to rebore the cyl and install an oversize piston already. I did not do a valve job...Only did piston work.

Since I rebuilt it 2 years ago It did not use any noticable amount of oil untill about 3 months ago.

It's on its 3rd set of rear tires that are almost bald and it's second set of fronts that are very bald.
I have replaced both sprockets and 2 O-ring chains..... Twice.

I'ts not uncommon for me to ride it 100 miles a day on weekends. Easily does 600-800 miles a month along with 10,000 rpm blasts at the sand dunes.

It's just time for rings and or a valve job but since I messed up on my taxes I can't spend the cash to fix it now. Carrying oil is a pita to say the least.

It's held up well for what it's been through.

I'm gonna try a thicker oil but I have not decided on a straight wt or a 20w/50.