Moly
- Thread starter JonS
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I run Castrol 20w-50 in my '83 GS1100 Suzi. works just fine.
99% of all MC riders (with wet clutches), have no problems. However, one guy with a VFR had starter clutch problems using the Honda MC oil that has moly (forget the designation). My MC manual for the VFR says that oils with "moly" are not recommended. So, would you have problems, probably not, but could you, maybe. Why risk the problems? My personal favorite is synthetic 20W50, SG, JASO MA rated with no friction modifiers or no solid lubricants (moly).
Just avoid bottles of oil that have the API 'starburst' energy conserving label on the front. I use Mobil 1 15w/50 in my '97 Honda 750 and Delvac 1300 in my '82 Kawasaki 750.
Thats easy . The ISLAC GF-3 EC oils are limited to the 30wts with exception of the Mobil SS 0w-40 and Castrol Syntecs , both the 10w-40 and the 5w-40 that I know of available in the USA . Possibly more though these days .
I've seen the " avoid EC oils " posted before on the internet and always wondered why someone would run a 30wt in a bike unless the ambient permits , then it's way too cold for me to be riding
[ January 30, 2004, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
Up here in Minnesota I ride from March to November (3 month layup provides a decent insurance discount). There have been times where I've ridden when it's 15F outside (heated grips and jacket help tremendously). I personally think a 30wt oil would be too thin except if the bike was A) liquid cooled B) had an external oil cooler and C) the transmission was separate from the engine (i.e. engine oil and trans oil do not mix). I don't believe such a motorcycle exists. I may be wrong.
The manual clutch in my Kawasaki atv makes weird noises if I don't use "jaso-ma" oil.
Other than that it works fine.
Other than that it works fine.
I have run vfr with moly all day long and have had NO problem with slippage. Never had a problem with the other bikes I owned either. The only "rumors" I ever hear regarding this problem are bikes with over 100,000 miles and then the clutch starts to lip. Most clutches due slip after that many miles because its worn out.
Don't you think when you hear that someone used 10w-40 Castrol for the life of a bike with 50k+ miles that it was in 1990 when the oil was different. I think todays SL oils would not get you there. They are not the same as they were 10 years ago. Maybe if i found a SF-SH rating this would work better.
Today's SL oils are (generally) far better than SF,SG, SH oils.
Personally, I wouldn't use a dino 10w40 of any classification in my bike. The only dino that I would consider would be one of the diesel oils in 15w40.
Good oil is too cheap to worry about. A Redline oil change costs me $40 every 5k miles. In the same period I will have spent $370 on tires, $250 on gas, plus the cost of wear and tear on chain, sprockets, air filter, plugs, etc.
Personally, I wouldn't use a dino 10w40 of any classification in my bike. The only dino that I would consider would be one of the diesel oils in 15w40.
Good oil is too cheap to worry about. A Redline oil change costs me $40 every 5k miles. In the same period I will have spent $370 on tires, $250 on gas, plus the cost of wear and tear on chain, sprockets, air filter, plugs, etc.
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