Bicycle chain lube
- Thread starter Cujet
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Well, OK. It sounds like I have something new to try.
Thanks everyone!
Chris
Thanks everyone!
Chris
I've been an avid endurance bicyclist (both road & MTB) for over 20 years and have tried about everything.
Chain wax is the worst crap I have ever put on a bicycle chain. It doesn't lubricate and doesn't last.
What does work, is to clean the chain with one of those chain cleaning gizmos (most of them work pretty well) and some degreaser. Then dry the chain and apply a small amount of regular old motor oil. Dribble a little on the chain, then grab the chain with a shop rag and spin the pedals to work the oil into the chain. If the oil splatters off then you used too much. You want a small amount of oil to be worked well into the chain.
Most people do use too much oil. Not only does it splatter everywhere but it also attracts dirt.
For road use, I find this lasts for about 1,000 miles of riding, or one season, or one ride in the rain, whichever comes first.
For MTB use, I do this every 5-10 hours or so of riding (depending on conditions). But it depends on the terrain. During rides like La Ruta, it was more like every 5 minutes
Chain wax is the worst crap I have ever put on a bicycle chain. It doesn't lubricate and doesn't last.
What does work, is to clean the chain with one of those chain cleaning gizmos (most of them work pretty well) and some degreaser. Then dry the chain and apply a small amount of regular old motor oil. Dribble a little on the chain, then grab the chain with a shop rag and spin the pedals to work the oil into the chain. If the oil splatters off then you used too much. You want a small amount of oil to be worked well into the chain.
Most people do use too much oil. Not only does it splatter everywhere but it also attracts dirt.
For road use, I find this lasts for about 1,000 miles of riding, or one season, or one ride in the rain, whichever comes first.
For MTB use, I do this every 5-10 hours or so of riding (depending on conditions). But it depends on the terrain. During rides like La Ruta, it was more like every 5 minutes
MRC01, I have the luxury of a nice ultrasonic chemical bath at work. I just ride the bike into work and pop the chain off the cogs and dirty up the ultrasonic. The chain is spotless after that type of cleaning. I could not think of a better way to clean the chain, inside and out.
Still, I have actually not tried modern M1 motor oil. Maybe my comment on M1 was on the mark.
I will purchase some Amsoil and try that against the M1. Maybe it is time to revisit the oil thing.
Chris
Still, I have actually not tried modern M1 motor oil. Maybe my comment on M1 was on the mark.
I will purchase some Amsoil and try that against the M1. Maybe it is time to revisit the oil thing.
Chris
Hi,
many years ago I raced Internationally ( NZ Rep. ) on both velodrome ( sprint, TT, and Teams pursuit ) and in road races. We always gave a lot of attention to our chains considering we trained and raced about 20-40 hours per week
Then, I found this was the best for me;
Always keep two chains
Mix a HD 10w-30 oil with Molyslip or powered Graphite (etc) about 70/30%
Heat oil and cleaned or new chain to about 70C
and let sit for an hour or so "working" it from time to time
Hang chain for a couple of days and wipe clean
Use but wipe off any excess
Rotate chains after rain etc
By all accounts some fancy new lubricants are still not as effective
Regards
many years ago I raced Internationally ( NZ Rep. ) on both velodrome ( sprint, TT, and Teams pursuit ) and in road races. We always gave a lot of attention to our chains considering we trained and raced about 20-40 hours per week
Then, I found this was the best for me;
Always keep two chains
Mix a HD 10w-30 oil with Molyslip or powered Graphite (etc) about 70/30%
Heat oil and cleaned or new chain to about 70C
and let sit for an hour or so "working" it from time to time
Hang chain for a couple of days and wipe clean
Use but wipe off any excess
Rotate chains after rain etc
By all accounts some fancy new lubricants are still not as effective
Regards
Hi,
many years ago I raced Internationally ( NZ Rep. ) on both velodrome ( sprint, TT, and Teams pursuit ) and in road races. We always gave a lot of attention to our chains considering we trained and raced about 20-40 hours per week
Then, I found this was the best for me;
Always keep two chains
Mix a HD 10w-30 oil with Molyslip or powered Graphite (etc) about 70/30%
Heat oil and cleaned or new chain to about 70C
and let sit for an hour or so "working" it from time to time
Hang chain for a couple of days and wipe clean
Use but wipe off any excess
Rotate chains after rain etc
By all accounts some fancy new lubricants are still not as effective
Regards
many years ago I raced Internationally ( NZ Rep. ) on both velodrome ( sprint, TT, and Teams pursuit ) and in road races. We always gave a lot of attention to our chains considering we trained and raced about 20-40 hours per week
Then, I found this was the best for me;
Always keep two chains
Mix a HD 10w-30 oil with Molyslip or powered Graphite (etc) about 70/30%
Heat oil and cleaned or new chain to about 70C
and let sit for an hour or so "working" it from time to time
Hang chain for a couple of days and wipe clean
Use but wipe off any excess
Rotate chains after rain etc
By all accounts some fancy new lubricants are still not as effective
Regards
Kestas
Staff member
I use chain saw lube. I believe it's formulated to cling on a rotating chain.
You right, whats the best way to clean a chain??? Ride about 200 miles in a downpour and your chain will be really nice and clean. Make sure you have some lube with you so when it drys you can apply fresh lube to extend chain life.
That is how I do it. Of coarse I don't pass many other cyclist when it's raining. I don't know where they all go??? The sun goes away and it gets a little cooler and they all dissapear.
msparks, you are so correct. I sometimes stray far from home, so the occasional Florida rainstorm is normal to me.
Chris
Chris
what is so terrible about WD40 and why do people hate it? Wouldn't it be OK to use for cleaning dirt off of the chain? It sure seems to be better than rainwater for cleaning (water + oil don't mix); actually, riding in the rain just seems to make the dirt collect, it's terrible.
BTW Cujet, I still think you're putting too much tension on the chain and need to avoid using the smallest chainring whenever possible. Otherwise you're muscles are just too large and you need to build more flab over Xmas season.
It probably is not a lube problem, unless the chain is completely dry of oil. Any lube will do the minimal and prevent chain damage. Nicer lubes will simply cut friction to nearly zero and give you that nice gliding feel. If tension isn't the problem, then it is more likely, like satterfi said, to be dirt related.
BTW Cujet, I still think you're putting too much tension on the chain and need to avoid using the smallest chainring whenever possible. Otherwise you're muscles are just too large and you need to build more flab over Xmas season.
It probably is not a lube problem, unless the chain is completely dry of oil. Any lube will do the minimal and prevent chain damage. Nicer lubes will simply cut friction to nearly zero and give you that nice gliding feel. If tension isn't the problem, then it is more likely, like satterfi said, to be dirt related.
Mr. Bawls,
You are correct about using WD-40 to clean a chain as it is a reasonably good solvent, but certainly not as a final lube. I've used it to clean off dirt and the old oil, then I wipe it down, let it dry and then apply a real lube. I read an article many years back which did an extensive test on motorcycle chain lubes. WD-40 actualy made the chains run hotter than no lube at all because it cleaned of the original grease/light oil that the new chain came out of the package with.
i like break free clp. it lubes and cleans well, not much build up. spray it on, wait overnight, wipe off all the grime it broke loose, then give it another light spray. the only prblem is that it really stinks, enough that you can smell it on the trail!
how old are your chainrings and cassettes? if they have alot of wear they will wear your chains out prematurely.
how old are your chainrings and cassettes? if they have alot of wear they will wear your chains out prematurely.
At the moment, everything, all the componentry in fairly new, with just a few hundred miles.
Chris
Chris
I don't know ANYTHING about bycicle chains.
Does any company offer a O-ring chain?
I can say that lubeing chains on my dirt bikes and atv's causes them to wear out faster than running them dry.
My next chain will be an O-ring chain and will not get any lube.....Ever.
Anywho if you can find an o-ring chain I would try it w/o lube and see how it does.
Does any company offer a O-ring chain?
I can say that lubeing chains on my dirt bikes and atv's causes them to wear out faster than running them dry.
My next chain will be an O-ring chain and will not get any lube.....Ever.
Anywho if you can find an o-ring chain I would try it w/o lube and see how it does.
Oh- I feel your pain. I have been riding for almost 20 years, and I still (rarely) find a better way to do something.
Here is part of what I posted to an "interesting articles" post about guns, no less-
I am a mountain bike fanatic. I can't imagine anything more harsh on delicate mechanisms than biking for hours in rain and mud. Good mechanisms are not overly sensitive to dirt and are well sealed/shielded, but not in a way that traps dirt or moisture.
I have tried everything from light oils like tri-flow, to heavy oils, greases, greases thinned with oil, hot-dip wax lubes, etc. I finally stumbled across Amsoil metal protect sprays (regular and HD), which are easily some of Amsoil's best products. The "regular" goes on oily but dries to a light film. It's supposedly great for guns. The HD is really amazing. It dries into a heavy, lubricating wax-like coating that is completely water proof and dirt proof. It's fantastic.
I realized I had only been destroying my parts with oil and grease all these years. Oil and grease is designed to be used in SEALED, CLEAN mechanisms. NOT exposed to moisture, corrosive contaminants, dirt, etc. Grease and oil is sticky and will actually ATTRACT these contaminants and carry it into mechanisms. Grease or oil is not appropriate for exposure to harsh or dirty environments. It can be worse than nothing.
Since trying these new dry lubes (there are some other brands as well), I do not use ANY oil or grease on exposed mechanisms, cables or chains on my bikes, tools, under-hood, etc. unless it is behind a good seal. Metal Protect HD goes on, stays on, doesn't get all over you and your clothes, doesn't suck up dirt, is totally waterproof, seals mechanisms, and when covered with mud, can just be washed off with water to continue performing.
There are several new dry-lube products out there now. I think Amsoil is the best, and Metal Protect HD is also by far the cheapest considering the huge can. Many companies have made chain dressings for years that work well in clean environments, but are still tacky enough to attract dirt. When exposed to dirt, they must either decompose and fall away, or absorb the dirt. I used to use chain-wax. It is great. Amsoil HD-MP is just as good and much simpler to use. To clean things off I use citra-solv degreaser in a clip-on chain cleaner.
That said, fenders are the best protection for your parts- especially a deep, low front fender with a mud flap. It's a lot of work to make them removable and sturdy, but well worth it. It seems foolish to me now to ride in real muck or rain without fenders because you and your bike stay so much cleaner there is no comparison. My shoes even stay dry! Just be sure to mount fender stays up high on the fork with straps. If you use the low factory mounts at the drop-outs, the fender can jam hard against the tire in the even of contact or debris in the spokes or tire - a real saftey issue.
As for chains, I used to swear by Sachs. Shimano hyper-glides sucked bad. Now it has all changed. Sachs/SRAM is terrible, and Shimano is very good. Oh well.
You can check your chain with a tape measure. The links are exactly 1/2 inch. If you can see a difference (measuring from your cassette to your crank) it's time to replace.
Now ask me about making derailer covers out of plasti-dip...
[ December 13, 2003, 07:07 AM: Message edited by: Fieldlab ]
I recommend going to a motorcycle shop and trying some of the different chain lubes for non oring chains.
I did that a few years ago. Those were some good lubes, for sure (like the "Titanum" series), but unfortunately NOT for exposed parts. So if your chain is sealed, or you only ride on clean roads, great. I now understand many dirt bikers use NO LUBE at all and get longer chain life. Amsoil HD protect is something they CAN use that is even better. Maybe by now though, other companies are copying the Amsoil product.
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