Specific Recommendation on Oil for a Honda VTX

[msparks]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MRC01:


AFAIC, $4.50 per quart for Mobil 1 or Amsoil is already paying a $3 per quart premium for a better oil. I'm skeptical whether paying an additional $4 per quart on top of that (for MX4T) provides any measurable benefit.

---

Also to say that most of the guys that buy those types of bikes might put 1000 miles on it in a year. I think the average mileage per year for a cruiser/sport bike is like 3500 miles.

Unlike myself that has 5,000 in less than 6 months. With 3 of those months torrential rain in Virginia(wetest spring ever) Anyhow. Like you said the engines will outlast the rest of the bike, espcially the electronics. Usually good for about 5-8 years before things start to go bad just from age. Also not to mention shocks, and suspension components.

 

[RainRider]

Interesting where these threads can go. . .
From specific oil for VTX to . . .
Would like to prove/disprove a conception I have, somewhat related to this thread (in making a choice in oils).
I run Amsoil 20W50 M/C in the crankcase (will not put car oil in my bike) and always premium - don't skimp there, either (even picky about what kind of premium) - other reading I've done say pinging IS destructive - RedLine Shockproof Heavy in the trans and so far, the stock (none Syn3) oil in the primary of my '02 ElectraGlide.
My conception is that I want to stay with a PAO base oil so that if I need more on the road and can't find Amsoil the dino oil I may have to use will mix with the PAO base. Conversely, I think that the dino oil will not mix with the Ester based oils. Am I anywhere close in my conceptions? I know the Shockproof heavy is ester based (that is I THINK it is) but then it's transmission oil, so not so worried about needing more while on the road. (same with primary oil)
Oh yeah, 28000 in less than 2 years and want to keep it forever, so I do care about making all components last as long as possible.
Thanks folks,
RR

 

[MRC01]

quote:

---

Originally posted by blsnelling:
I justed switched my'00 Vulcan 1500 Classic from Amsoil motorcyclet 10W-40 to their 20W-50. I can't believe the difference in how smoothly the thing shifts. It's a big difference. It is totally quiet at start up and the oil light goes out immediately. I like the added protection of the thicker oil since the bike usually sees some WOT every time I ride it.

---

Keep in mind that thicker oil does not always lubricate better. It's a tradeoff. Thick oil means more pressure, but lower flow volume. A thinner oil is going to have a higher flow rate and keep the engine a little cooler. However, a thicker oil usually resists shearing better than a thinner oil, and when it does shear you have a bigger margin before it fails to lubricate.

For example, early versions of the Honda V4 engines had excessive cam wear. This problem was caused by insufficient volume of oil reaching the heads due to the oil passages being too narrow. Many of the owners, using 20w50 instead of 10w40, actually exacerbated the problem.

IMO, the best thing to do is to use the viscosity the factory recommends.

[ July 18, 2003, 01:25 PM: Message edited by: MRC01 ]

 

[blsnelling]

I justed switched my'00 Vulcan 1500 Classic from Amsoil motorcyclet 10W-40 to their 20W-50. I can't believe the difference in how smoothly the thing shifts. It's a big difference. It is totally quiet at start up and the oil light goes out immediately. I like the added protection of the thicker oil since the bike usually sees some WOT every time I ride it.

Ride On!