Any recomendation for widely available otc oil for an '87 600cc CBR with about 21k miles. I'm thinking of using Pennzoil High Mileage 10w-40 which is rated SG/SH/SJ/SL or the Long Life 15w40 CH-4/SJ. The bike is now only used occasionally during summer/late spring/early fall without significant amount of mileage. I believe the owners manual called for the obsoleted API oil SE & SF. TIA
OTC oil for an old Honda Hurricane
- Thread starter pinoy99
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My choices for OTC bike oil are Castrol 20w-50 or pennzoil 10w-40/20w-50. Both are excellent Dino's for a bike. I really cannot recommend synthetic, i have used Mobile One and Castrol Synthetic in bikes, and whilst I had no clutch problems, they didn't seem to perform any better than the dinos,and i usually change at 2500 mile intervals anyway, so wasn't cost-effective for me. Hope that helps.
Valvoline Racing VR1 20-50 is everywhere and ya can't beat it with a stick for motorcyle use when your talking 3k drains and VERY hard riding,,mucho better than other OTC 20-50 dinos and about 2 bucks a quart. I always liked it as a M/C oil and now that it's been reformulated I like it more.
pinoy99, I really like your choices ... but Hondas (their clutches) are supposed to be molybdenum intolerant (especially the newer ones). Both those oils have moly ... especially the Long Life 15W40 which has twice as much as the rest of the Pennzoil lineup.
So, if you encounter any clutch-slippage problems (or possibly even hard shifting), I'd dump it ASAP.
Castrol, Mobil and now even Valvoline are including some (50-80ppm) moly in their formulas.
If you want to play it safe, you could go with Chevron Supreme 10W40 or the tougher Chevron Delo 400 in 15W40. Recently tested samples of these oils show them to produce very low wear numbers in autos and neither has any moly.
Just be sure to keep the drain intervals of these oils VERY short, I wouldn't go over 2,000-2,5000 miles on any of them, especially a motor oil with no moly. Remember, these weren't designed to put up with the byproducts of combustion AND deal with the shear stress of a bikes gearbox.
All the oils you are looking at are no more than $2 per quart so frequent changes are fairly cheap.
--- Bror Jace
So, if you encounter any clutch-slippage problems (or possibly even hard shifting), I'd dump it ASAP.
If you want to play it safe, you could go with Chevron Supreme 10W40 or the tougher Chevron Delo 400 in 15W40. Recently tested samples of these oils show them to produce very low wear numbers in autos and neither has any moly.
Just be sure to keep the drain intervals of these oils VERY short, I wouldn't go over 2,000-2,5000 miles on any of them, especially a motor oil with no moly. Remember, these weren't designed to put up with the byproducts of combustion AND deal with the shear stress of a bikes gearbox.
All the oils you are looking at are no more than $2 per quart so frequent changes are fairly cheap.
--- Bror Jace
I used to use Valvoline in my honda, then got rid of it. After awhile it would start to lower oil pressure when it got hot. I had just assumed it was breaking down. I used syntec for a couple changes, went to mobile one for a couple more, didn't like those, went with the Castrol 20w-50 and the Honda seemed to love it. Never had a clutch issue at all. My Suzi, a GS1100GK, had Pennzoil used by the previous owner, and seemed to work well, but went to the castrol due to the way it acted in the Honda. I Still Use it today. pretty much all OTC name-brand oils will meet your requirements if you keep the intervals short (for air-cooled engines moreso than a water-cooled). Just my humble opinion, hope it helps.
Been wanting to know this myself as when I put my Kaw Vulcan 1500 up for the winter and do an oil change beforehand, I hate filling it with $7/qt synthetic and dumping it shortly after bringing out in the spring. I think I'll use the Chevron 10w-40 for the winter storage oil (I do however ride it maybe a few times during the winter months) and change back to Mobil 1 M/C synthetic or Amsoil during the warmer months.quote:
Originally posted by Bror Jace:
pinoy99,
If you want to play it safe, you could go with Chevron Supreme 10W40 or the tougher Chevron Delo 400 in 15W40. Recently tested samples of these oils show them to produce very low wear numbers in autos and neither has any moly.
Just be sure to keep the drain intervals of these oils VERY short, I wouldn't go over 2,000-2,5000 miles on any of them, especially a motor oil with no moly. Remember, these weren't designed to put up with the byproducts of combustion AND deal with the shear stress of a bikes gearbox.
All the oils you are looking at are no more than $2 per quart so frequent changes are fairly cheap.
--- Bror Jace
Why dilute the two synthetics with the change to dino? Some will be left in the sump to mix when you go back to the Mobil or Amsoil, good choices by the way. Another solution is to go to once a year oil changes and do them right before the winter.
You're probably right that the once/yr before winter with synthetic is a better option. It seems I got into this routine of changing it in the Spring and so on. Before next Winter, I believe I will change it and begin once/yr with the synthetic. Given I only put 1000-1500 miles/yr on the bike, this makes more sense.
Just about to buy Delo 400 15w40 at WM but a recent visit to an Autozone gave me more option: Valvoline M/C 20w50 rated JASO MA,API SF,SG,SJ for $2.99 each or Mobil1 M/C for $7.99 each
. Needles to say I opted for the cheaper dino oil. Anyone with experience on this particular one?
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