Golden Spectro 4 analysis

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 16, 2002
Messages
21
Location
Missouri
I've been using Golden Spectro 4 (syn. blend), 10w40 in my motorcycles for the last 10 years, mainly because they just shift better with it.
After discovering this site, I decided to find out how good/bad Golden Spectro really is.
Below are the results from a virgin and a 1000 mile sample I sent to Blackstone Labs.
I've always changed oil/filter every 1000 miles but it looks like I can safely double that.
My current bike is a '00 Kawasaki ZRX1100 w/4K miles.

The question for you guys that know what these numbers mean is;
Is there another oil, cheaper than the $5.00qt. I pay for Spectro, that will give me the same results?
What about Rotella diesel oil?
code:



virgin 1K miles

ALUMINUM 1 5

CHROMIUM 0 1

IRON 2 13

COPPER 0 7

LEAD 0 2

TIN 0 0

MOLYBDENUM 0 1

NICKEL 0 0

MANGANESE 0 0

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0

POTASSIUM 0 0

BORON 139 141

SILICON 4 5

SODIUM 1 1

CALCIUM 369 397

MAGNESIUM 912 966

PHOSPHORUS 1785 1933

ZINC 1743 1837

BARIUM 0 0



SUS Visc. 82.1 67.3

@210 F.

Flashpoint 425 380

Fuel
Insolubles trace 0.2

TBN 10.0 10.5


 
What doesnt make sense to me is why the additive elements show higher vaules for the used sample than the virgin sample.
 
blano, I noticed the same thing.
confused.gif


mcmech, Are the zinc & phosporpous numbers typos? Did you get the numbers switched? Did you use some other oil before this?
confused.gif


I see Spectro has no moly in it. If your bike's wet clutches are moly friendly, I would definitely go with a moly-formula oil ... either a good automotive one (Schaeffer 15W40 7000 blend, micron mioly 10W40 (dino) or Red Line 10W40) or a cycle oil (I don't know of any). I forget whether Mobil 1 MX4T has moly in it now or not.

Of the non-moly oils, I'd be tempted to try Amsoil. Lots of zinc & phosphorous, probably a much better base oil than Golden Spectro.

Right now, the only serious anti-wear agent you have is the boron ... and that is just getting the job done. The iron you see is mostly from the gearbox ... and may not be excessive but I don't know how much is bad in that type of an application. Aluminum (5) doesn't look that great either. Does this motor have steel cylinder liners? My guess is no.

Silicon looks good at "5" suggesting your air filtration is working well. The "4" in the virgin sample is most likely an anti-foaming additive. Red Line uses 10-15ppms of this stuff.

Lead and copper are from bearings, probably. Copper looks a tad high ... I wonder if some of that is from the gearbox? Tin, which is part of brass or bronze is still zero. I might guess that there might be broze or brass bits (synchro rings, etc ...) in the gearbox ... but with a high-performance bike, they might just have the more durable straight-cut gears without such frilly things.
wink.gif


Yes, the sustained viscosity of this stuff really dropped ... and after only 1,000 miles. The base oil got really chewed up ... and I would expect better from a "synthetic blend" ... even though this motor and tranny share the oil. Yep, Chris, I think the shearing is 80-90% from the gearbox.

I suppose you could continue using this stuff ... but I'd be considering alternatives if I were you.

--- Bror Jace
 
I would also like to interject my oppinion that mobil 1 15/50 and m1 cycle 10/40 are both better choices and are cheaper to boot.
 
The Golden Spectro has been the a fav. of the BMW crowd. May hold up in this milder environment, not in tranny and milder engine tune. How about the Castrol R-4 as another possibility?
 
Are the zinc & phosporpous numbers typos? Did you get the numbers switched? Did you use some other oil before this?
The numbers are correct.
This was the third oil change using this oil.

I was kinda' puzzled too by the difference.
The only thing I can figure is, the virgin sample was from a bottle I had on the shelf that was a year old.
I guess they changed their formula a bit in that time.
dunno.gif


The viscosity numbers were also puzzling as you guys have pointed out....quite a drop in only a thousand miles.

I'll probably try Mobil MX4T as I've had good results from Mobil 1 in my cars.
 
blano: "Mobil 1 15/50 and M1 cycle 10/40 are both better choices and are cheaper to boot."

I'm leery of using most automotive oils in bikes which have their motors & trannies sharing a sump. I know people who use them with decent results, but I don't think they are anywhere close to ideal. This goes for even the high-performance synthetics. With the gearbox, you usually want a higher coefficient of friction (less slipperiness) for more positive gear engagement. An ultra slippery oil (like a really good synthetic) may be great for preventing wear once the gears are engaged ... but the extra slippery conditions may make for harder shifting (more difficult gear engagement) and that can produce even more wear in the tranny. There are a lot of factors involved with each different application and I don't know an alternative to experimenting, unless it is from someone who has already done a lot of experimenting ... including follow-up lab testing of used oil samples.

blano, where do you buy MX4T? A cycle shop? I have seen it at Wal-Mart for at least $6 per quart. Not really that cheap and I wouldn't guess a cycle dealer or shop would be cheaper than the almighty Wally World ... or would they?

Chris: "The Golden Spectro has been the a favorite of the BMW crowd."

Of all the dudes I know/knew who use Spectro oils, none get their oil ananlyzed so they can't really say for sure that it's doing a great job. Most think they figure they are using a specialty oil designed specifically for motorcycles ... and it's expensive. So it's got to be good, right?
dunno.gif


My brother used this stuff for years in his CR250 dirtbike, a dude I used to work with used this in his Yamaha FJ1200 but the guys I know that ran this stuff the hardest (motocross up and down the entire East Coast) got tired of burning up their bikes so they switched to Motul and couldn't have been happier.
grin.gif


Now, I don't know about your BMW buddies ... do they get their used oil tested? Regularly? That's really the key. And even with testing, they should have a number of motorcycles trying different oils over many thousands of miles to show trends. Motorcycle magazines could (realistically) do this ... but then we'd have definitive proof of the superiority of some oils over others ... and they'd lose out on advertising. Most magazines don't really want to give the reader useful information on brands. They have an interest in promoting brand wars as they profit from them, companies competeing with each other in part by trying to out-advertise each other. Also, if people got definitive answers on key technical questions, the might stop reading the magazine(s).
shocked.gif


And, of course, there's the problem that different bikes may like different oils for a number of reasons; some have roller cranks, some have different clutch linings, bearing materials, cylinder arrangement, gear vs. belt-driven cams, etc ...

For what it's worth, what I've seen in OEM Honda cycle oils don't impress me much, either.
rolleyes.gif
There are one or two reports on them somewhere on this site as well, I think. Very expensive, but they seem to use an indifferent quality shear-unstable base oil (like Spectro) and a merely adequate barrier package (again, high-borate content). There's simply no excuse for this. OEM stuff should be top of the line ... and if it was, more people would use it.

As for the change in zinc & phosphorous levels, yes, they probably spiked their levels of these additives in more recent formulas.

mcmech: "I'll probably try Mobil MX4T as I've had good results from Mobil 1 in my cars."

Probably not a bad idea. Either MX4T or the Castrol R-4 that Chris suggested. They can't be any less shear stable than Honda or Golden Spectro.
rolleyes.gif


Still, I'm dying to see some analysis of Schaeffer oils used in a bike. I'd also like to see someone take a poor performing oil ... and see how much of an improvement some Schaeffers #132 additive can make to its used oil analysis.
smile.gif


--- Bror Jace

[ January 01, 2003, 12:03 PM: Message edited by: Bror Jace ]
 
"I'm leery of using most automotive oils in bikes which have their motors & trannies sharing a sump. I know people who use them with decent results, but I don't think they are anywhere close to ideal. This goes for even the high-performance synthetics. With the gearbox, you usually want a higher coefficient of friction (less slipperiness) for more positive gear engagement. An ultra slippery oil (like a really good synthetic) may be great for preventing wear once the gears are engaged ... but the extra slippery conditions may make for harder shifting (more difficult gear engagement) and that can produce even more wear in the tranny. There are a lot of factors involved with each different application and I don't know an alternative to experimenting, unless it is from someone who has already done a lot of experimenting ... including follow-up lab testing of used oil samples."

I and many others havent found this to be a issue with automotive oils. This idea the synthetics are slippery is joke IMO and a marketing point for bs peddlers. I am good friends with a guy that builds some very fast four cyle bikes and all he ever uses is mobil 1 15w50. I use mobil 1 in my two stroke tranny as well with good results.

"blano, where do you buy MX4T? A cycle shop?" I

Autozone.
 
quote:

Originally posted by blano:
I would also like to interject my oppinion that mobil 1 15/50 and m1 cycle 10/40 are both better choices and are cheaper to boot.

MX4T is $8/qt here. You can get it for less than $5/qt at Autozone? Don't BS me
 
In my area spectro is $8 or more per quart. Autozone sells mx4t for around $6. When you consider the fact that mx4t is a full group4/5 synthetic and spectro is only a blend the choice is pretty simple.
 
quote:

Originally posted by blano:
In my area spectro is $8 or more per quart. Autozone sells mx4t for around $6. When you consider the fact that mx4t is a full group4/5 synthetic and spectro is only a blend the choice is pretty simple.

At that price, I'd be using MX4T in my car.
 
I never cared whether good motorcycle oil cost me $5, $8, or $12 a quart. I just wanted the best oil for my bike.
Honda and Spectro oil always made my bikes shift smoother so I figured they were better oils.
It's disheartening to find out they really aren't.
No harm was ever done since I changed it every 1,000 miles but what bothers me is all the people who've asked me what oil they should run in their bikes.
I'm a motorcycle mechanic....who better to ask, right? Wrong
Most mechanics know even less about oil than I do.

Thankfully, there are now websites like these where I can educate myself about oil.
I won't be able to persuade the majority to use good oil but at least I'll be able to give better advice to the one's that do.

Thanks
 
I hope some of the better motorcycle oils can do 2-2500 miles in a sportbike such as the Mobil or Castrol R-4. An oil out of grade at 1000 miles is pitiful! Someone with some inside info needs to step up and tell us the losers and the winners. Please! With low miles and few oil analysis on motorcylces we may figure this all out when everything has an electric motor!
dunno.gif


[ December 29, 2002, 10:52 AM: Message edited by: Chris ]
 
blano: "This idea the synthetics are slippery is joke IMO and a marketing point for BS peddlers."

I'm not so sure that it is all B.S. Yes, the marketers have distorted and contorted things all out of whack ... but if you have a syncromesh transmission (in a car) you can certainly feel the difference in gear engagement when trying significantly different fluids.

I had a '90 Integra and I dumped the 5 speeds factory oil in favor of Mobil 1 10W30 (pre Tri-Syn formula) and the shifting got very notchy. I dumped this stuff in favor of Red Line MTL ... and the shifting was the best it ever was. If you read the technical info on MTL it explains why this happens ... and based on my real world experience, I buy into all of it.
smile.gif


I understand, however, that this is a passenger car 5-speed and bikes trannies may be a totally different ballgame when it comes to gear engagement.
dunno.gif


Of course, lower coefficient of friction may contribute to mcmech's experience with the oils better shifting results. Too bad the stuff doesn't really hold up, though.
frown.gif


Chris:"An oil out of grade at 1,000 miles is pitiful!"

Exactly!. They are saving pennies per quart by going with a lower-quality base oil ... while they charge several dollars per quart retail for the finished product.
rolleyes.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
I can say from experience that the oil formulation will indeed affect the shift quality.

M1 (API SJ/SL) makes my two bikes shift better than any other oil I've tried, including Delvac 1300 Super. No clutch issues.

I'm not convinced that the extra money I'm spending on synth lubes is going to help my engines last any longer, but the improved shift quality makes them worth it.

RM
 
I used M1 10w-30 in my Honda VFR for 30,000mi mainly because I loved the way it shifted with the 30-weight. Then GF-3 came along and I became worried that my transmission wouldn't get enough protection. I switched to Delvac 1 which has a much more robust AW package, but I catch neutral more often than I like when shifting from first to second. When the Delvac 1 is gone I'm looking for another 30-weight to try.

Mcmech, I'm curious. Did you notice that your bike shifted better or worse toward the end of your interval?
 
I’d like to see some of you riders try Redline and get an analysis done and report back. I don’t mean run it 1 or 2k miles either, 4k minimum.

I changed from MX4T after reading on a Hayabusa forum that moly oils like Redline gave smoother shifting. After the change, I’d agree. My Honda still doesn’t shift as smooth as my Suzuki, but it’s a lot better.

It doesn’t cost any more than MX4T, so can someone step up to the plate?

Here’s my first analysis with Redline in my VTR1000.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000089
 
Thanks for posting that link, satterfi. I had forgotten who it was that had used Red Line in their sportbike.
worshippy.gif


More importantly, I forgot how good those results were.
pat.gif


Comparing Red Line to Golden Spectro and OEM Honda (somewhere else on this site) is nothing short of a joke. The Red Line went 4 times the distance, had significantly lower wear values and sheared only slightly, if at all.

lol.gif
lol.gif


I don't know whether to laugh ... or get angry in the face of hucksters selling low grade oil almost as expensive as Red Line ... without even 25% of it's quality.
rolleyes.gif


If I had a moly-tolerant bike, and was looking for an elite quality oil (or just an oil that was most economical to run!), it would be no contest.
grin.gif


You fellas still think used oil analysis in a shared sump bike isn't worth bothering with?
tongue.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top