Advice on building an 8x12 shed footing

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My brother will be in town with his carpenter friend next weekend, so I'm thinking this is a good time to build that 8x12 shed I've been wanting. The 3 of us should be able to bang it out in 2-3 days.

I was planning to put the shed on cinder blocks. I checked with the town and they said not a problem for a shed that small. I would just need to install anchoring an anchoring kit and hurricane connectors to the studs and joist areas. Anyways, that what I did with my last shed, but my brother's friend is strongly recommending me to install a 4" cement slab.

Is that overkill? If I go the concrete way, I guess I would have to handmix the cement because a truck get to the backyard area without doing some damage to the grounds. I was also thinking of cement pillars like on a deck, but that seems like a lot of trouble too.

I guess if I go with a slab, I wouldn't need to deal with a floor and joists. What to do...what to do?
 
I'm a slab guy for sheds.

I don't like small crawly spaces.

You should do a +/- list for both....time in house, longevity, cost, height, moisture, rotting, critter load, etc and etc
 
I'm with Pablo. A concrete slab all the way. Nothing else will work as well or last as well for such a low amount of money.

You can rent a mixer and make your own concrete but you'll still have to wheelbarrow the materials to the mixer, or find/rent/borrow a loader or skidsteer. Might be easier just to bring the concrete truck out and move the concete that way. You're only looking at just over a yard of concrete here...
 
OK. Sounds like slab is the way to go. I'm calculating I'll needing about 1.3 yards going with a 4" thickness. I assume a bag of cement is 1 cubic feet, so I'll need 16 bags. Yes?

I've never rented a mixer. Do I pick this thing up, tow it, or do they deliver it with the amount I need? I could just mix it myself but there got to be some point where it's more economical to have it premixed and delivered.
 
Go with the slab. Make sure you re-enforce it with some steel, perhaps some wire fencing. I would double up on steel as when the frost comes and it heaves, you'll want the whole thing to rise, then settle back down as one unit next spring. Make sure you slope the floor out the door so it will stay relatively dry.
 
I also prefer a concrete slab. I'd put in a 3" slab. Since the shed's so small and it doesn't get real cold in RI that should be thick enough. Be sure to use rerod at the recommended intervals. I'd rent a cement mixer. It'll take forever to handmix an 8'x 12' slab. It'll take a while even with a rented cement mixer. Be sure to put anchor bolts in the slab after its poured, so that you can place the sole plate over the anchor bolts and bolt it down.

That said, here's a good alternative. I used it for my 12' x 24' shed and like it. Use a pole barn style of construction. The basics follow. You sink pressure-treated posts that are 6" in diameter 24" into the ground. They should be pressure-treated to keep the underground part from rotting. The recommended distance between poles is 8'. For your shed you'd put a pole at each corner and one in the middle of each 12' wall. Make SURE the poles are plumb and that on each wall the outsides of the poles line up perfectly, and that the top of each pole is cut so that the top is level AND is level with the top of each other pole. And of course make sure the poles form a perfect rectangle. If your brother's carpenter friend knows anything about framing in buildings he can tell you why all that is necessary. Its the most important part of the building process for a pole barn style building. Then, starting 3-4" above ground level you nail or screw on 2x6's horizontally over the outside of the poles about every 2 1/2 ft. on center. It'll take 4 rows. The bottom of the bottom row should be 2-3" above ground. The top of the top row should be even with the tops of the poles. A top plate goes on top. It consists of a 2x6 laid flat on top of the poles and the top row of horizontal 2x6's. The outside edge of the top plate should line up with the outside face of the top row of 2x6's. Two poles are used as a support to which to attach the door framing. You can use a corner pole or one of the poles in the middle of the 12' walls for this purpose and will only have to install one extra pole for the other side of the door.

Of course you'll have leveled the building site. You can leave the floor as dirt or cover it with small rounded stones -- 3" of stones would be enough. If you cover with stones, raise up the bottom layer of the outside row of horizontal 2x6's by the inches of stones to be laid down. In other words, if you lay down 3" of stones, the bottom layer of 2x6's should be 2-3" above the top of the layer of stones. The best time to lay down the stones is after the poles are in and before installing the horizontal rows of 2x6's. I won't go into why -- trust me on this. It has to do with ease of building the rest of the shed and ease of laying down the stones.

The nature of the outside framing (the horizontal 2x6's) will of course determine, and limit, the types of siding you can use. The roof options are the same as for a stick built frame, and the options for framing for the roof are the same, and the framing goes on just like it goes on a regular stick built frame.

To help keep out mice, and to help keep rain water and runoff from getting at the floor, I put the door on the downhill side of the shed. Then, all around the outside of the bottom row of horizontal 2x6's, before putting on the siding, I dug a slit trench. I fastened the top edge of 12" wide aluminum sheeting to the outside face of the bottom part of the bottom row of 2x6's. The rest of the sheeting goes in the slit trench, which of course you then fill up with dirt. The siding covers the part of the sheeting that's attached to the bottom row of 2x6's. If you do this and cover the floor with stones, pour on the stones AFTER you install the aluminium rain/mouse guard sheeting. I built my shed myself 13 years ago and used this rain/mouse guard sheeting technique (which I'd never heard or read about and thought up myself). I've never had a wet floor (I have 3" of stone on the floor). I do have mice, but its all but impossible to build a mouseproof shed, and that's what D-Con is for.

No way a hurricane is going to blow down a structure like this. I don't mind the stone floor at all.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Razl:
OK. Sounds like slab is the way to go. I'm calculating I'll needing about 1.3 yards going with a 4" thickness. I assume a bag of cement is 1 cubic feet, so I'll need 16 bags. Yes?

I've never rented a mixer. Do I pick this thing up, tow it, or do they deliver it with the amount I need? I could just mix it myself but there got to be some point where it's more economical to have it premixed and delivered.


The rental places around here have small mixers on 2 wheel dolly style trailers. As was mentioned, use some rebar, pieces almost end to end every 2' or so in both directions and tied where they cross. You can also use screen but it's more of a pain to keep in the right place when you pour.

If they bring premixed concrete out on a truck you're probably about at the minimum size load. Call around, but some places won't bother for under 2 yards on a Saturday for instance. One thing available premixed you can't do on your own is the new fiber reinforced mix. You can use it to do light jobs like this with no steel at all.

If you've never worked with concrete my advise is to find someone to "help" who has. It's not nearly as easy as it looks...

edit: One thing to add to the pole barn technique jmacmaster brought up. I have a 30' X 56' building constructed this way. They set the poles in oversized holes and tamped Sacrete around them after they set them. A few rains and they're set in concrete.
 
An 80 lb bag of Quickcrete yields about 2/3 of a cubic foot of concrete.

An 8x12 slab approximately 4" thick is going to need 1.45 cubic yards, +/-. There's 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard.

You will need 59 eighty pound bags of Quickcrete. That is about $170 in bags. One of those rental mixers will mix about 3 bags at a time. That's 19 trips to the mixer. At 30 minutes per trip, that's 10 hours. I hope you have a 2-wheel, 6+ cubic foot contractor sized wheelbarrow.

In many areas, some of the concrete companies have a small tow-behind trailer that will hold 1 or 1-1/2 cubic yards of concrete. There is also some small pumper trucks.

Many concrete companies will deliver a small amount and wait for you to unload it with a wheelbarrow. You might look at that. Get 2 more people and 3 more wheelbarrows and it won't take long to unload 1-1/2 yards. You are looking at a much cheaper route that way.
 
Man...you guys are quick! Thanks for all the great feedback and tips. My brother and friend are hoping I get the slab poured before their arrival this Sunday so there's no way I'll be able to prep the area and mix that much cement on my own. I called my builder which referred me to a local small company that will deliver anything over a yard in 1/4 yard increments. It was too good to be true I tell you - they actually bring more than you need so you won't run short, they use a small truck that won't tear up the yard and pour it right where I want it(and only what I need), they deliver on Sat. I couldn't believe it
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It's going to be around $200. I don't know if that good or bad, but I don't care at this point.

The shed will look something like this, but with white trim and unstained cedar shingles, just like my house
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. I'm also putting a crawl space with a window and swing out door for my son to play in. It'll serve as the garden shed/playhouse.

Thanks again all
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When you have a concrete truck come to your house there's often some concrete left over after the pour. Some companies won't take it back and require you to take it. So, have some forms ready to pour the concrete in. For example round forms 3" high for steeping stones. Rectangular forms about 8" high by 10 or so inches wide by 2 or more feet long for a step up onto something.
 
They said they have several deliveries on Sat so there's not an issue with surplus but thanks for the suggestions.
 
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