What gear oil? 2004 Toyota Sequoia 4WD

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
18
Location
Ohio
Well guys, I've bought a bunch of Amsoil ATF and some motor oil on your recommendations. A couple of times in those threads people have mentioned that I need to pay attention to what I put in the rear end of this truck, given the substantial amount of towing I plan to do. So here I am to ask for more advice!

The owner's manual says to use 75w-90 in the front differential and transfer case. GL-5 in the differential and either GL-4 or GL-5 in the transfer case. It requires *SYNTHETIC* 75w-140 in the rear diff, GL-5 only.

So far I've bought enough SuperTech 75w-90 and synthetic 75w-140 to do a flush. I figure I'll put the SuperTech in there and leave it until my next oil change to try to flush out the old stuff a little better (is there a safe cleaner I ought to add for this? Do gear oils come with detergents now?).

What should I put in after the flush? Redline? Amsoil? Whatever's on sale? What's going to protect my driveline next summer when I'm drag a race car up and down the hills in 90 degree heat? Thanks in advance guys.
 
I've had absolutely outstanding luck with Redline Heavyweight Shockproof. My dad has it in his 3500 Cummins ram, I have it I'm my 87 4Runner in the rear diff with a Detroit locker, we run it in the 74 Camaro drag car that runs 8's, I run it in both axles and the transfer case of my wheeling truck.

For the transfer case and front diff I'd just run the recommended weight Redline gear oil.

Their gear oil is one of the few fluids I spend extra money on, it has yet to let me down.
 
I've had the Heavy ShockProof in my 4Runner for nearly 50,000 miles now in the rear diff, I plan to pull a sample at 50,000 and send it in. I see no reason not to run it for 50,000 as I have done in this truck. When i had it in my 2002 Tacoma I sampled it at 52,000 miles and Blackstone said to check back in another 25k. sadly the truck was totaled before i could check back. I wouldn't be afraid to run any of the Redline gear oils to a 50k sample in your application. Despite the recommendation to the contrary listed above, I'd absolutely run it in your application. the solids they add to this oil not only help to prevent breakage of gear teeth under shock loading, thay also provide extra protection during heavy loading like your ring and pinion will experience while towing, which is exactly why it's in the rear differential of my fathers 3500 RAM that he currently uses to tow his 36' 17,000# trailer with.
 
Nice, I'll give the shockproof a shot.

For the record, there are no issues (noise, etc) with the rear differential now. The transfer case is sticky though, you have to kind of play around with shifting between drive, neutral, and reverse to get the 4wd and/or center differential lock lights to go out.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ShadowSix
Nice, I'll give the shockproof a shot.

For the record, there are no issues (noise, etc) with the rear differential now. The transfer case is sticky though, you have to kind of play around with shifting between drive, neutral, and reverse to get the 4wd and/or center differential lock lights to go out.


That might just be from drivetrain bind. Try shifting out of 4wd while in neutral then moving the vehicle backwards and forwards about 15' if there is tension due to a slight tire mismatch or bind induced by turning this usually will allow it to unload and disengage. Could also be a weak shift motor. Most new electric shifted transfer cases can be slow to actually disengage in my experience. Usually just selecting what you want and moving the vehicle some is sufficient to get them to complete the demanded shift in my experience.
 
Yeah, that's basically what I have to do. It always eventually gets where I want it to be, but I'd sure prefer if it would click in and out of 4WD and center differential lock without the fiddling.

My other 4x4 is completely manual; manual hubs, manual trans, manual transfer case, so I'm having to get used to the Sequoia with its push-button to get into 4wd and to lock the center differential, but stick to go from 4-hi to 4-lo.

I'm kinda hoping that the flush, plus there better gear oil, plus exercising the system some gets it to be a little more responsive than it is.
 
I have a pair of 1st generation 4Runners so I know all about the beauty of having hubs and the ability to manually shift the transfer case with a real shift lever. I wish that was still standard fare for a four wheel drive. Is your 4Runner a 22RE or the 3VZ?
 
22RE. Sadly, I'm probably going to be selling it soon at I just don't have access to anywhere to wheel it anymore.

I bought it from a Texas guy who botched a motor swap. He didn't realize that the electronics on the '87 motor and the '89 truck were not the same, so I got the truck for a song. I love it, but it mostly just sits now.
 
Originally Posted By: ShadowSix
22RE. Sadly, I'm probably going to be selling it soon at I just don't have access to anywhere to wheel it anymore.

I bought it from a Texas guy who botched a motor swap. He didn't realize that the electronics on the '87 motor and the '89 truck were not the same, so I got the truck for a song. I love it, but it mostly just sits now.


That's a serious bummer, last of the first generation 4Runner. The 88-89 door panels on a SR5 were much nicer than the earlier models. I love my two 87 SR5 4Runners. My white one still has its original engine at nearly 316,000 miles and counting, it has every option an 87 could have save for the turbo engine automatic transmission (thank god) and power sunroof (has a sunroof but it's manual tilt only). My black one is the same but lacks cruise and power windows and locks and mirrors so it's more basic SR5. I love the original 4Runners. Mine is my daily driver and is the truck currently filled with shock proof in the rear diff.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top