Real Main Seal Leak ? ? ?

[larryinnewyork]

I could have a Rear Main Seal Oil Leak, OR NOT.

2002 Ford Ranger
6 Cylinder, 3.0 Liter
136,300 miles (currently), original owner

The Facts:
4,000 mile OCI
7-28-11 / 99,300 miles - Changed PCV (as PM)
5-5-16 / 133,200 miles - Changed front Main Seal (as PM)

A little History:
5-5-16 / 133,200 miles:
Had Indy Mechanic change Timing Cover Gasket (leaking Coolant).

6-22-16 / 134,100 miles
Went back to Mechanic because of oil leak at front of Oil Pan (near timing cover).
Note: Mechanic pointed out there were 'some' oil drops at front of Transmission.
Mechanic then changed Oil Pan GASKET.

Last Month or so, I notice (4) oil drips around Drain Plug & (back side of) Oil Pan / Couple drops of oil on garage floor.
Now I believe there is an oil leak either from:
1.) Oil Pan Gasket (next to transmission)
OR
2.) Rear Main Seal is worn

Currently:
I have an appointment with same Mechanic to discuss if Oil Pan GASKET is leaking.
I have Leak Dye already in oil.

Questions:
1.) Looking up between Oil Pan and Transmission (3/4" space) can the source of leak be determined ? ? ?
2.) If Rear Main seal is leaking (slowly), how long will it last ? ? ?
3.) Is this a good reason to switch to High Mileage Oil ? ? ?

Any advice is appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[Leo99]

The RMS on my Rav has been seeping for a couple years. Hasn't gotten any worse. No drips on floor, just oil soak on the "bell" between engine and tranny. Lot easier to change the oil pan gasket than the RMS. Change to HM oil and see if it helps.

 

[Evili]

Unfortunately, oil drips at the bottom of a machine don't tell you much about where a leak is. Gravity has a funny way of forcing liquids to run downhill.

If you really want to get a handle on this, careful and methodical visual inspection with the aid of a good flashlight is required. Clean the entire engine, and then monitor it closely for evidence of leak sources.

 

[bigt61]

How much oil are you losing per OCI? What mileage OCI? At 136k miles, a HM oil can't hurt.

 

[larryinnewyork]

Originally Posted By: bigt61
How much oil are you losing per OCI? What mileage OCI? At 136k miles, a HM oil can't hurt.


OP here,

* Several drops on garage floor each Week.
* 4,000 OCI

I may add 1/2 quart per 4,000 miles.
Up to now, I attributed that to normal oil loss with my mileage.

 

[SatinSilver]

Maxlife 5w30. I had the dealer replace the rear main seal on an Accord. They paid half the cost, so $250. In hindsight I wished that I let it go. It wasn't even leaking on the ground. After the repair the trans flared between 1st and second. Brought it back and a drain/fill solved the problem. The Accord had 75k miles at the time and maybe around 6 years old. I'd let it go unless it starts to really leak. Switch to HM oil for now.

 

[Leo99]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Maxlife 5w30. I had the dealer replace the rear main seal on an Accord. They paid half the cost, so $250. In hindsight I wished that I let it go. It wasn't even leaking on the ground. After the repair the trans flared between 1st and second. Brought it back and a drain/fill solved the problem. The Accord had 75k miles at the time and maybe around 6 years old. I'd let it go unless it starts to really leak. Switch to HM oil for now.


I concur. Put a metal wee-wee pad under it and use HM oil and hope it remains constant. Could go another 100k miles with the same leak rate.

 

[Leo99]

PS, I would NOT use any of those miracle RMS fix in a can products. Not at this time.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

1.) Looking up between Oil Pan and Transmission (3/4" space) can the source of leak be determined ? ? ?

Answer: Probably; but the FIRST thing I would do would be to safely jack and support the vehicle; go there with a bright flashlight, safety googles, and a plastic 1 quart pump type garden sprayer with 50% (or more) simple green cleaner...spray it down using just enough pressure to get the spray where you want it...go have a cup of coffee or an adult beverage...wait 10 min. or so...use the same sprayer and rinse thoroughly with water...put a fan under your vehicle to move air...come back in an hour...two hours, three hours...I might spend an afternoon, but I promise I would find the source of the leak...Alternatively, go to WalMart and buy some (scented or unscented) spray white talc powder...Regardless of how you do it, the idea is to get clean dry surfaces, make it visible and watch for a wet spot to appear. If you already have Leak Dye in oil, do you have a UV flashlight?

2.) If Rear Main seal is leaking (slowly), how long will it last ? ? ?

Answer: God only knows. Maybe the life of the vehicle without worsening. Maybe next week. Anyone who claims to know with any accuracy can pick stocks for me to purchase, but I want proof of accuracy of predictions first. Regardless, screaming Scotty Kilmer (Youtube fame) recommends ATP-205 reseal. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Leaks-8OZ-/381438706024?hash=item58cf84c168:g:OjAAAOSwLnBXVzZm&vxp=mtr I have used this product (successfully) on two separate power steering systems and a rear main seal leak. You must allow the product a few days (some mileage) to expect it to work, but I figured a $12 gamble was a cheap and worthwhile bet. It paid off for me.

3.) Is this a good reason to switch to High Mileage Oil ? ? ?

Answer: No. ATP-205 reseal is a much better wager.

Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are my own.

 

[Evili]

larry, in all honesty, I think you're over-worrying the situation. A few oil drops on the garage floor per week is far less than the oil leakage limits on an aviation turbine engine.

If your bellhousing has a removable inspection cover, take it off and look inside with a good flashlight. The area should be bone dry. If there's evidence of fluid in there, it's either a weeping rear crank seal, or a front transmission shaft seal.

 

[larryinnewyork]

Originally Posted By: Evili
larry, in all honesty, I think you're over-worrying the situation. A few oil drops on the garage floor per week is far less than the oil leakage limits on an aviation turbine engine.

If your bellhousing has a removable inspection cover, take it off and look inside with a good flashlight. The area should be bone dry. If there's evidence of fluid in there, it's either a weeping rear crank seal, or a front transmission shaft seal.


OP here,

Yea, your probably right.

Considering the vehicle is 14 years old, I have to realize it's not new anymore (but well maintained).

I'm going to be watching the oil level (as I always do).
I keep a clean Cookie Tray underneath. I'll begin a Weekly drip count.

In the future, most likely I'll try a High Mileage Oil.
At 135,000 miles, I would like to try H.M. 5w-30 instead of the called for 5w-20.

Also, if I ever need the Transmission replaced, that would be the ideal time to change the RMS.

I thank everyone for taking the time to respond.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork


Also, if I ever need the Transmission replaced, that would be the ideal time to change the RMS.



Yes, save it for then.

My '02 Ranger has been leaking a little from the RMS and probably oil pan gasket for some time. The first signs of seepage were around 50K miles, and it has 188K now with the original valve cover, oil pan, and timing gaskets along with the original RMS. I have to top off the oil with a half quart maybe once or twice between 8K mile oil changes. I can deal with that. If it were a quart every 1K due to leaks, I'd definitely fix it, but a 1/2 quart here and there on a Vulcan engine isn't something to worry about.

A member here replaced the RMS on their high mileage '01 Ranger 3.0 because they had the trans out, and if I remember right it leaked worse afterwards.

On a Vulcan, a 1/2 quart every 4K isn't really a leak.