Fumoto Valve

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So how can it be that it appears that only one company makes these valves? Are there others that I just don't know about?

Seems like there should be more competition.
 
Originally Posted By: BigD1
How does all the oil drain out of the pan when there is a drain valve that sits higher than the lowest part of the oil level?


You'd be amazed to learn that most factory pans face the exact same challenge.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Being someone who uses a Fumoto to save time and effort on cleanup, I have to say I don't understand those folks with Fumotos who drain into a pan and then transfer the used oil from said pan to disposal jug.


I change my oil without ramps or a jack so I can only fit a drain pan under my vehicle when I open the Fumato valve.


Got you. You're saving time on lifting the vehicle and I presume your filter is up top or you're not changing it.

Since you can reach the valve, any chance of attaching a long drain tube to the nipple, or is that going to be too fiddly?

They also sell a 90 degree elbow if your nipple is facing down.


You have to purchase the "-N" version, which has a nipple on it, so that you can attach a hose to it.
 
I was not aware of this new design. It addresses the complaint I have about the valve not lining up the way I want it when tightened. Comes with the clip, too, for those of you who fear accidental opening.

New Design Fumoto
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I was not aware of this new design. It addresses the complaint I have about the valve not lining up the way I want it when tightened. Comes with the clip, too, for those of you who fear accidental opening.

New Design Fumoto


Don't understand how anyone can read the installation and operation instructions and conclude this is better/easier than simply removing/reinstalling drain plug. Note one of the advertised features of the new design is higher drain flow so even Fumoto understands this drawback. As I said before, this drain valve is a solution looking for a problem.
 
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Depends on what one is using them in. They are great in applications like semi trucks, ag equipment, etc. And I have found them great for my personal stuff also. Makes changing oil a much cleaner proposition. Especially on stuff like my pickup, where the drain plug is on the side of the pan and when only using a drain plug, the oil shoots out and sometimes the drain pan is not quite perfect to catch the stream when it starts. With a Fumoto and a plastic elbow placed on the nipple, I get a nice downward drain. And try changing 10 gallons of oil out of semi truck, in your drive, doing the plug method. No, I will take a Fumoto. Only those that have very limited experience cannot understand why anyone would use them.
 
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Depends on what one is using them in. They are great in applications like semi trucks, ag equipment, etc. And I have found them great for my personal stuff also. Makes changing oil a much cleaner proposition. Especially on stuff like my pickup, where the drain plug is on the side of the pan and when only using a drain plug, the oil shoots out and sometimes the drain pan is not quite perfect to catch the stream when it starts. With a Fumoto and a plastic elbow placed on the nipple, I get a nice downward drain. And try changing 10 gallons of oil out of semi truck, in your drive, doing the plug method. No, I will take a Fumoto. Only those that have very limited experience cannot understand why anyone would use them.


Guess you're right. I have been changing oil for only 51 years on only 18-20 various passenger vehicles.
 
I actually can take it or leave it. I've only put drain valves on MY cars; a 1989 Accord (Fram Sure Drain) and a 2012 Mazda3 (Fumoto). Since I'm now only changing my oil every 30,000 miles (microGreen filter user) I may just leave the drain plug in. As I mentioned earlier, the fiber washer that came with my Fumoto valve cracked so I did a quick swap back to the original drain plug to stop the oil drip.

Anyone want a really good deal ($10 + first class postage) on my Fumoto valve? (F-106) The only issue I have with it is that it's hard to open due to where the lever ends up when the valve is tightened into the oil pan. The Mazda has a small "hatch" that gets removed to access the oil drain and filter and there's not a lot of room to get to the valve lever. NO chance at all it would ever open accidentally on this car. The F-106 will fit a variety of makes and models. PM me if you're interested.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I actually can take it or leave it. I've only put drain valves on MY cars; a 1989 Accord (Fram Sure Drain) and a 2012 Mazda3 (Fumoto). Since I'm now only changing my oil every 30,000 miles (microGreen filter user) I may just leave the drain plug in. As I mentioned earlier, the fiber washer that came with my Fumoto valve cracked so I did a quick swap back to the original drain plug to stop the oil drip.

Anyone want a really good deal ($10 + first class postage) on my Fumoto valve? (F-106) The only issue I have with it is that it's hard to open due to where the lever ends up when the valve is tightened into the oil pan. The Mazda has a small "hatch" that gets removed to access the oil drain and filter and there's not a lot of room to get to the valve lever. NO chance at all it would ever open accidentally on this car. The F-106 will fit a variety of makes and models. PM me if you're interested.


What oil are you using to go 30k miles? Will you be doing any UOAs? The MicrogGreen filter only handles contaminants like iron or silicon. It does not help with additive package depletion or the oil oxidizing or shearing or fuel or coolant contaminants.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Depends on what one is using them in. They are great in applications like semi trucks, ag equipment, etc. And I have found them great for my personal stuff also. Makes changing oil a much cleaner proposition. Especially on stuff like my pickup, where the drain plug is on the side of the pan and when only using a drain plug, the oil shoots out and sometimes the drain pan is not quite perfect to catch the stream when it starts. With a Fumoto and a plastic elbow placed on the nipple, I get a nice downward drain. And try changing 10 gallons of oil out of semi truck, in your drive, doing the plug method. No, I will take a Fumoto. Only those that have very limited experience cannot understand why anyone would use them.


Guess you're right. I have been changing oil for only 51 years on only 18-20 various passenger vehicles.


Me too! First drain I did was around 1965 myself. But one thing I learned over the years in many of my endeavors, is to work smarter, not harder. And several profs in college beat it into me that if there is an easier way to do something, that is the way it should be done. That bit of advice has proven well over the years.
 
I love the Fumoto drain valves, and have used them for several years.

A previous poster mentioned the supplied gasket leaked over time. I too
had a gasket to split and leak, so I now replace the fiber gaskets with
copper ones and add gasket sealer for insurance. No more leaks...
 
Related question. I think I overtightened a Fumoto with the blue washer - I was using a torque wrench and crows foot and it didn't click.

There's no leak but the blue washer looks very squashed.

Could anything go wrong here? Should I plan on removing and reinstalling with a new washer at the next oil change?
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Note one of the advertised features of the new design is higher drain flow so even Fumoto understands this drawback. As I said before, this drain valve is a solution looking for a problem.


Thanks for pointing that out. Only those with a lack of understanding would want to slow the draining of their oil just for convenience...
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Related question. I think I overtightened a Fumoto with the blue washer - I was using a torque wrench and crows foot and it didn't click.

There's no leak but the blue washer looks very squashed.

Could anything go wrong here? Should I plan on removing and reinstalling with a new washer at the next oil change?


I would recommend it. The supplied washer is pretty crummy and if you smashed it you'll eventually see it drip. That's exactly what happened with mine. It took 30,000 miles. What a mess. I have a full underbody pan and a small hatch that has to be removed to access the oil drain and filter. The drip coated the hatch and ended up making a mess. If it's not dripping now don't worry too much, but it won't be a big deal to replace the washer at your next oil change.
 
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