Aftermarket Substitute for KIA Long Life Coolant?

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Another thought. We on BITOG are probably less than 1% of car owners. If the universal coolants were tearing up head gaskets, etc. Wouldn't they be getting sued left and right? Why would they be selling them like crazy if it was causing damage? Maybe, just maybe, we over think some things on this forum. I don't know.....
 
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Takes a while for symptoms to show... so usually it'll be the second, third, etc.. owner. Ain't gonna sue the coolant company, because its from a lack of maintenance (i.e., draining/filling it accordingly) not their product.
 
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I went to the Kia dealership today. Guess what? They are using O'Reilly Universal antifreeze. They didn't even have any OEM in stock. $27.99 if they did. I asked him if they were concerned with the 2-EHA ingredient. He said with any car newer than 2010 it is not an issue (at least in KIA / Hyundai vehicles.) I don't even know what to think anymore.

Just me but if I found out the stealer was using a parts store universal Dexclone with 2eha rather than oem spec PHOAT, I'd be ticked. Honda stealer used some kind of green with a head gasket job some years ago. Went back they gave me one free gallon Type2 and I bought another and got all the green out myself and put it back to spec.

I doubt most mechanics and service writers have a clue about 2eha, and even if they do likely couldn't care less. That plus bottom line, it's not the spec AF for Asian vehicles. And now with alternatives like the WM Valvoline Asian vehicle for $12/gallon, not much reason to use a dexclone universal for simple d&f on an Asian vehicle.

All that said, if one is comfortable using a universal dexclone on their Asian vehicle their call and to each their own. Just wouldn't/won't be my choice.
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
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I went to the Kia dealership today. Guess what? They are using O'Reilly Universal antifreeze. They didn't even have any OEM in stock. $27.99 if they did. I asked him if they were concerned with the 2-EHA ingredient. He said with any car newer than 2010 it is not an issue (at least in KIA / Hyundai vehicles.) I don't even know what to think anymore.

Just me but if I found out the stealer was using a parts store universal Dexclone with 2eha rather than oem spec PHOAT, I'd be ticked. Honda stealer used some kind of green with a head gasket job some years ago. Went back they gave me one free gallon Type2 and I bought another and got all the green out myself and put it back to spec.

I doubt most mechanics and service writers have a clue about 2eha, and even if they do likely couldn't care less. That plus bottom line, it's not the spec AF for Asian vehicles. And now with alternatives like the WM Valvoline Asian vehicle for $12/gallon, not much reason to use a dexclone universal for simple d&f on an Asian vehicle.

All that said, if one is comfortable using a universal dexclone on their Asian vehicle their call and to each their own. Just wouldn't/won't be my choice.


He seemed to know about it and understand the concerns, but he didn't think it was an issue. For me, I would like to think that if it was going to cause a problem why would they use it? The only thing I can think of is cost. I mean, how many people in Asian vehicles are running around with AMAM in their cars? Probably a bunch. You said it though each to their own. I agree.
 
I would stick with the KIA coolant . It is green and long life. As a KIA tech , we see few if really any cooling system problems with OEM fluid. Change it out near 60K and you will be all good. Drain fluid from radiator drain petcock and refill. Never have had/seen a drain petcock break on a KIA radiator. Use a spill free/ burping funnel and its super easy. You will need slightly less than 2 gallons of 50/50 coolant. Link for funnel I use for this job. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill...ill+free+funnel
 
Originally Posted By: Thax
I would stick with the KIA coolant . It is green and long life. As a KIA tech , we see few if really any cooling system problems with OEM fluid. Change it out near 60K and you will be all good. Drain fluid from radiator drain petcock and refill. Never have had/seen a drain petcock break on a KIA radiator. Use a spill free/ burping funnel and its super easy. You will need slightly less than 2 gallons of 50/50 coolant. Link for funnel I use for this job. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill...ill+free+funnel


This is slightly off topic but I am curious since you're a KIA Tech, I had the 60k mile service done on my Sorento and was surprised to learn that KIA actually advises coolant and transmission fluid first change at 60k then every 30k afterwards? I've seen a couple sources on this, and pretty much plan to do that change interval as I need my Sorento to run for a long time (given my experience so far, it shouldn't be a problem). Just looking for confirmation from someone who has the knowledge and isn't trying to make a buck off me.
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Originally Posted By: user52165
Originally Posted By: Urshurak776
$30 for a funnel? Wow!


Why don't you read about it including the reviews, and see how it actually works and saves time and frustration.................... then comment. Not just any funnel.

This is an even better version that costs less:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill...rds=24680+lisle


Sorry, I didn't mean to ruffle feathers, I was just taken by surprise. I guess if I was doing it all the time, it would be worth it. Pretty cool device.
 
Originally Posted By: Deamos
Originally Posted By: Thax
I would stick with the KIA coolant . It is green and long life. As a KIA tech , we see few if really any cooling system problems with OEM fluid. Change it out near 60K and you will be all good. Drain fluid from radiator drain petcock and refill. Never have had/seen a drain petcock break on a KIA radiator. Use a spill free/ burping funnel and its super easy. You will need slightly less than 2 gallons of 50/50 coolant. Link for funnel I use for this job. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill...ill+free+funnel


This is slightly off topic but I am curious since you're a KIA Tech, I had the 60k mile service done on my Sorento and was surprised to learn that KIA actually advises coolant and transmission fluid first change at 60k then every 30k afterwards? I've seen a couple sources on this, and pretty much plan to do that change interval as I need my Sorento to run for a long time (given my experience so far, it shouldn't be a problem). Just looking for confirmation from someone who has the knowledge and isn't trying to make a buck off me.
smile.gif


If it were my Sorento , I would personally not do the coolant for another 60K. Modern coolants can easily go longer than 30k. The transmission fluid I would change out every 30K , very good preventative maintenance. If not doing it yourself I would insist they service it with genuine SPIV fluid and not a universal fluid. If its AWD look at getting the rear end serviced , as well as making sure the brake fluid isnt trashed. KIA recommends 100k spark plug intervals , but Ive always thought that a bit excessive. Ive pulled some out at 80K that dont look too great.
 
I just bought my son a used 2012 Hyundai Accent. The owner's manual indicates that the first coolant change is to be done at 120,000 miles. I'll leave the rest of you to bemoan how it's too long of an interval. Hyundai and Kia should be the same.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I just bought my son a used 2012 Hyundai Accent. The owner's manual indicates that the first coolant change is to be done at 120,000 miles. I'll leave the rest of you to bemoan how it's too long of an interval. Hyundai and Kia should be the same.

Im sure it states that mileage for "normal" service. Unfortunately nobody on this planet is "normal" service, the "severe" service schedule is the one to follow.
 
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.... Unfortunately nobody on this planet is "normal" service, the "severe" service schedule is the one to follow.

At least as far Hyundai/Kia 'in my experience' that is true. If one reads the owners manuals of both, it's easy to see that most any kind of driving is included under the 'severe service' category. Nearly impossible to be in normal service with H/K. And to maintain that highly promoted warranty that must be followed. The six month max oci no matter how low the miles is one such example. No OLM on H/K vehicles.

As for topic, again I'd use any Asian PHOAT AF, including the suggested ones in this thread.
 
I guess I'll be blowing up my engine, then. It'll be the same as the way I blew up my 89 Accord's engine when I switched to Dexcool in 1997. Somehow i managed to drive that car another fifteen years, before wrecking it, without the coolant turning to gel. After that switch I never actually changed it again. I simply topped it off after water pump and hose changes. There is such a thing as over-maintaining and it really gets you no benefits.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I guess I'll be blowing up my engine, then. It'll be the same as the way I blew up my 89 Accord's engine when I switched to Dexcool in 1997. Somehow i managed to drive that car another fifteen years, before wrecking it, without the coolant turning to gel. After that switch I never actually changed it again. I simply topped it off after water pump and hose changes. There is such a thing as over-maintaining and it really gets you no benefits.


Not saying your gonna blow the engine by any means. Just stating that in all reality its due @60K for warranty purposes. Say your water pump fails and the engine overheats , without documented proof of maintenance Hyundai/KIA will not honor the warranty due to owner neglect. Seen it happen , no documentation = no warranty. Sucks but this is how Hyundai/KIA operate.
 
I hear ya. Hyundai's 10 year/100K mile warranty is only for the original owner. When it changes hands it becomes a 5/60 warranty. I did learn that before I bought the car. It's a very clean used car. So, warranty is not a concern here.

I'll bet a lot of you did not know that about the Hyundai/Kia warranty. Look it up.
 
Unless the temperature actually runs hotter than normal for periods of time I doubt it matters whether conditions fall into the severe category, or not. I stopped changing coolant regularly in 1997 and have never had issues related to it; overheating, corrosion, or otherwise. There are coolants on the market (i.e. Peak Final Charge) and supplemental coolant additives (i.e. RMI-25) that can relegate coolant changes to the history books. I know this is not going to be a popular opinion on an over-maintenance forum.

If it makes you feel better, drain a half gallon of coolant once a year and refill to refresh the additives. That ought to be all you ever have to do.
 
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.... Seen it happen , no documentation = no warranty. Sucks but this is how Hyundai/KIA operate.

I suspect how most vehicle manufacturers work too. Just that H/K new vehicle engine powertrain warranty happens to be longer than most, documentation a more extensive process.

That said, some may not care about the vehicle warranty or are willing to roll the dice. Spending that amount of money on a vehicle, I'm not one those.
 
My history with warranties emboldens me, I suppose. I inherited the 89 Accord from my grandmother. She purchased an extended warranty (6 years, 100K miles). I got a new master cylinder and new CV boots out of it. I did all the maintenance myself and was never asked to provide evidence. 1993 Ford Escort (wife's car); had A/C compressor and oil pan gasket replaced under warranty. Never asked to provide evidence of maintenance. 2012 Mazda3; never taken to the dealer for any sort of issue during the warranty. I guess some of you had bad experiences, but as far as I know, you are not required to follow the severe maintenance schedule. The car I just bought was used and has no warranty so I get the luxury of following a schedule that I have proven to myself over time. It minimizes my level of slavery to the automobile and doesn't compromise its longevity. I thought I had anxiety issues until I became a member here. It has been good therapy for me.

BTW, I'm the one who does 30,000 mile OCI's with microGreen filters. Cars serve US, not the other way around.
 
I'm kinda leaning towards DBMaster's point of view. My 2013 Rio manual just specifies coolant for aluminum radiators. What is this "Asian Vehicle" coolant anyway? Not saying it is, but sounds like it could be marketing by Madison Avenue type folks?

I have yet to get a satisfactory explanation of at least yearly OCIs. Not from any of the posts on this or other websites, and not from the two manufacturers, Mobil and Chevron, that I contacted. It just seems like draining out the 6 quarts of good Mobil 1 from my Ford 5.8L after only 1000 miles and 1 year could be considered a waste.
 
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