Napa Syn 15w50 to replace BradPenn 20w50 in 454bbc

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FlyNavyP3

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Hey everyone,

After stocking up on some Napa Syn for my daily drivers and OPE I was thinking that perhaps their 15w50 might be a suitable lower cost (due to the current sale) substitute for the 20w50 Brad Penn dino oil that we currently run in a drag car tht I help maintain and crew for. We buy the BP 20w50 by the case and it's quite expensive about twice the cost of the NapaSyn during the current sale. Do you guys think it would be a suitable replacement?

Engine is a 454 Big Block Chevrolet, 0.060 over, 13.8:1 compression, roller cam, aluminum rods, makes 660 hp to the tires on motor, about 900-1000 to the tires on spray depending on the jetting. Car has been as fast as 8.30's on a 300 hp shot. Current OCI is every 25 passes.

Just trying to save some money and still have the same level of protection.
 
VWB and M1 15w50 are both good oils I agree, however at retailers other than auto parts stores they're hard to find. Walmart here doesn't stock anything heavier than a 40wt. Price point for a large oil purchase is still cheaper with the Napa Syn as we're looking to buy about 120 quarts which would be enough for 10 oil changes. That makes the M1 rebate on a total of 10 quarts irrelevant. VWB or VR1 are both more expensive on a price per quart basis. Any thoughts as to why the Napa Syn 15w50 wouldn't be a suitable oil?
 
You'll be fine w the Napa - probably even better off. Saving money on a 1000HP race car is semi humorous but I know where you're coming from. Stuff adds up fast. Use your Brad Penn for engine break-in after rebuilds - or any other 20W-50 dino, even SuperTech will work.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
You'll be fine w the Napa - probably even better off. Saving money on a 1000HP race car is semi humorous but I know where you're coming from. Stuff adds up fast. Use your Brad Penn for engine break-in after rebuilds - or any other 20W-50 dino, even SuperTech will work.


I completely understand that it sounds absurd to try and save money on a race car. However if we can save $30-40 bucks every oil change that's enough to fill a nitrous bottle and since we race the car on a blue collar shoestring budget every little bit helps. Especially when we change the oil so frequently.

As far as break in is concerned there isn't much of one on this car as it has a roller cam. It's break in consists of 10-15 non nitrous passes then it's game on till the next time it's apart.
 
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Racing oil for a race engine. The pressures that engine creates, especially on spray, are far more than what API, ACEA, ILSAC, etc. are spec'd for. Since you're changing it so often, dino oil is probably fine. Valvoline and Lucas both make racing dino oils in 20W-50 I believe. That engine needs far more zinc than what passenger car oils offer. Buy it by the 5 gallon bucket to save money.
 
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Originally Posted By: Darren_L
IMO, I'd stick with the Brad Penn.


I agree !

This is a race motor.Your typical off-the shelf motor oils will not cut it,sorry folks. In this game,you want to play,you gotta want to pay,it's not a cheap hobby.

You have an expensive motor assembled,and then run cheap oil? Nope makes no sense. You dont run cheap gas in this motor either.
 
Originally Posted By: RazorsEdge
Originally Posted By: Darren_L
IMO, I'd stick with the Brad Penn.


I agree !

This is a race motor.Your typical off-the shelf motor oils will not cut it,sorry folks. In this game,you want to play,you gotta want to pay,it's not a cheap hobby.

You have an expensive motor assembled,and then run cheap oil? Nope makes no sense. You dont run cheap gas in this motor either.


It definitely doesn't drink cheap gas. VP C16 116 octane on spray. Late Model Plus 114 on motor. It is a very expensive hobby for sure. We spend about $200 in fuel and nitrous to go to the track just for a test and tune session, not including entry fees and towing fuel there and back. I'd love to find something cheaper than the Brad Penn that works but obviously we're not willing to risk the engine doing it. It's currently nearing the end of its third season on this rebuild/freshen up. It will get torn down this winter and get a fresh set of rod and main bearings. We usually do rings and gaskets every 6 seasons and bearings every 3 unless we hurt it. However it will likely be a spare motor for next season as we have a 540 going together for the car now that should run in the 8's on motor and hoping for 7's on some spray. The car weighs 2850 without the driver, the fact that we're going low 8's on a production 2 bolt main 454 block production steel crank, and production iron heads says something about the power capacity even in 40 year old parts. The weak part of the combination is the 2 bolt block. Even with main studs the main caps walk enough to brinell the mating surface. We're definalely at or past the limit of the production 2 bolt block. This engine has never seen more than a 300 hit. The 540 should easily take 2 stages of 300 for 600 total. Thanks for the input.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3


It definitely doesn't drink cheap gas. VP C16 116 octane on spray. Late Model Plus 114 on motor. It is a very expensive hobby for sure. We spend about $200 in fuel and nitrous to go to the track just for a test and tune session, not including entry fees and towing fuel there and back. I'd love to find something cheaper than the Brad Penn that works but obviously we're not willing to risk the engine doing it. It's currently nearing the end of its third season on this rebuild/freshen up. It will get torn down this winter and get a fresh set of rod and main bearings. We usually do rings and gaskets every 6 seasons and bearings every 3 unless we hurt it. However it will likely be a spare motor for next season as we have a 540 going together for the car now that should run in the 8's on motor and hoping for 7's on some spray. The car weighs 2850 without the driver, the fact that we're going low 8's on a production 2 bolt main 454 block production steel crank, and production iron heads says something about the power capacity even in 40 year old parts. The weak part of the combination is the 2 bolt block. Even with main studs the main caps walk enough to brinell the mating surface. We're definalely at or past the limit of the production 2 bolt block. This engine has never seen more than a 300 hit. The 540 should easily take 2 stages of 300 for 600 total. Thanks for the input.


Awsome,post up pictures if you got'em !
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Sure no problem, of which part? The car or the engine, or the carnage when things go wrong? Lol.


grin2.gif
Pictures of drag car,carnage is never any fun
wink.gif
 
You should be fine. I know 3 different people that drag race BB Chevys, don't know the exact specs on engine, But I can tell you, They all pull the front wheels off the ground and run in the high 8's. And they all run normal oil from the store. VR-1, Mobil 1, and Parts Plus oil. None of them blowed up yet
 
Talk to the NAPA store owner maybe he will give you some oil in exchange for a spot for his/her NAPA sticker on the car.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3

As far as break in is concerned there isn't much of one on this car as it has a roller cam. It's break in consists of 10-15 non nitrous passes then it's game on till the next time it's apart.


As long as you are running a roller cam the Napa oil will be fine. If the clearances want 50, then you'll get 50 at op temp
smile.gif


If it was an alcohol motor that ran cold, maybe some other choice, but a warm gasoline engine, you're good to go
smile.gif
 
Nothing wrong with Napa. I would personally stick with BP. I've run 10-30 Valvoline not street legal oil for years in my 540 cubic inch top dragster/ super comp dragster. Never a problem.
 
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