Best Oils for Direct Injection & Turbo Engines

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Originally Posted By: ZiTS
I also wanted the HTO-06 spec listed.

How relevant is this spec today, considering that even Honda no longer requires it for their latest turbo engines?

My guess is most oil manufacturers are not going to bother getting their oil tested/approved for this spec if there is no market.
 
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
The primary issue with Ford's 2.0T is intake valve crud from the PCV. Logic tells me that you'd want an oil that is most resistant to burning onto the valve when it enters the intake.

Wouldn't an oil from Redline be best for this if you're looking for the ultimate prevention? Or is there nothing that can resist that level of heat?

I've been rotating between PP, Mobil1 and Valvoline Synpower in my Focus ST but I haven't checked my valves so I don't know how well / terrible they're performing.


How does oil impact deposits on a valve? That's a fuel issue.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
The primary issue with Ford's 2.0T is intake valve crud from the PCV. Logic tells me that you'd want an oil that is most resistant to burning onto the valve when it enters the intake.

Wouldn't an oil from Redline be best for this if you're looking for the ultimate prevention? Or is there nothing that can resist that level of heat?

I've been rotating between PP, Mobil1 and Valvoline Synpower in my Focus ST but I haven't checked my valves so I don't know how well / terrible they're performing.


How does oil impact deposits on a valve? That's a fuel issue.


Not familiar with direct injection? What rock have you been under?
 
If HTO-06 is no longer relevant then why do other oils (Mobil 1, QSUD, Castrol, etc) list it? Usually, the oil companies only list relevant specs, not outdated ones.

If it's gone from all the new labels when the GF-6 classifications are out, then I'll consider it irrelevant.


Z-
 
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Not real familiar with the fine points of keeping the new DI engines clean, but X2 on giving it a spirited run every so often. DI or not, the new small-displacement, high-output engines will get stoved up if you don't blow the cobs out occasionally. Redline every now and then won't hurt it if your maintenance is up to par.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
The primary issue with Ford's 2.0T is intake valve crud from the PCV. Logic tells me that you'd want an oil that is most resistant to burning onto the valve when it enters the intake.

Wouldn't an oil from Redline be best for this if you're looking for the ultimate prevention? Or is there nothing that can resist that level of heat?

I've been rotating between PP, Mobil1 and Valvoline Synpower in my Focus ST but I haven't checked my valves so I don't know how well / terrible they're performing.


How does oil impact deposits on a valve? That's a fuel issue.


Not familiar with direct injection? What rock have you been under?


Please explain "what rock have you been under? While you are at it(which you didn't do)explain how oil can cause deposits on valves?
 
Why oil affects deposits on valves more with a DI engine has to do with the fact that, unlike port injection, there is no fuel washing over the intake valves and cleaning oil residue from PCV off. So it can build up and create issues. For a DI engine, a viable option is to have a high quality PCV oil catch can in line that will separate out oil, condensation, and other gunk from the PCV line before it has a chance to get to the intake. I know some think it is unnecessary, but the HD diesel OEM's figured this out when they were mandated to have CCV's on their engines starting in 2007. They all have oil filtration traps (catch cans) on their engines, from the factory, to clean out oil and crud from CCV line before it can get to the intake. The auto and pickup OEM's are behind the curve on this one. But then, they usually are.
 
Disconnect the PCV and convert it to road draft.

Plug the port on the intake. Just remember to plug it back in if you need to smog check
laugh.gif


Seriously, they ought to be able to capture crankcase ventilation and fumes and cycle them trough the exhaust w/o going past the intake valves which are running hotter because they have no fuel evap to help cool and clean them. So they become bake-on heaters ...

This all needs a rethink
confused.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Please explain "what rock have you been under? While you are at it(which you didn't do)explain how oil can cause deposits on valves?

This topic has been covered hundreds of times on here, tig1. A quick google search would provide some insight. Here is one of the first links that pops up....

http://www.aa1car.com/library/intake_valve_deposits_gdi_engines.htm

Quote:
What Causes Intake Valve Deposits

Intake valve deposits form as a result of oil slowly seeping past the intake valve guide seals and down the valve guides. A tiny amount of oil is necessary to lubricate the guides, but when oil reaches the hot surface of the valve, it can stick and burn forming heavy black carbon deposits that gradually build up over time. The higher the mileage on the engine and the greater the wear in the valve guides and seals, the faster the accumulation of black carbon deposits on the intake valves. Low viscosity motor oils (such as 5W-20 and 0W-20) may make the problem worse because they are thinner (to reduce friction) and flow more easily down the valve guides. Conventional motor oils also have a lower flash point than synthetic oils, which can also increase the formation of deposits over time.

Another contributing factor to the formation of intake valve deposits is unburned fuel vapors and oil vapors being siphoned back into the intake manifold through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. This is done to control crankcase emissions and to remove moisture from the oil (which helps prolong oil life). The fuel vapors, carbon particles and oil droplets that the PCV system routes back into the intake manifold are reburned in the engine to reduce pollution. But these same vapors can also form carbon and varnish deposits on the intake valves.

The more blowby an engine has due to cylinder and piston ring wear, the greater the volume of crankcase vapors that are pulled back into the engine by the PCV system. High mileage engines typically have more blowby than low mileage engines, so the build up of intake valve deposits is usually faster.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: tig1
Please explain "what rock have you been under? While you are at it(which you didn't do)explain how oil can cause deposits on valves?

This topic has been covered hundreds of times on here, tig1. A quick google search would provide some insight. Here is one of the first links that pops up....

http://www.aa1car.com/library/intake_valve_deposits_gdi_engines.htm

Quote:
What Causes Intake Valve Deposits

Intake valve deposits form as a result of oil slowly seeping past the intake valve guide seals and down the valve guides. A tiny amount of oil is necessary to lubricate the guides, but when oil reaches the hot surface of the valve, it can stick and burn forming heavy black carbon deposits that gradually build up over time. The higher the mileage on the engine and the greater the wear in the valve guides and seals, the faster the accumulation of black carbon deposits on the intake valves. Low viscosity motor oils (such as 5W-20 and 0W-20) may make the problem worse because they are thinner (to reduce friction) and flow more easily down the valve guides. Conventional motor oils also have a lower flash point than synthetic oils, which can also increase the formation of deposits over time.

Another contributing factor to the formation of intake valve deposits is unburned fuel vapors and oil vapors being siphoned back into the intake manifold through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. This is done to control crankcase emissions and to remove moisture from the oil (which helps prolong oil life). The fuel vapors, carbon particles and oil droplets that the PCV system routes back into the intake manifold are reburned in the engine to reduce pollution. But these same vapors can also form carbon and varnish deposits on the intake valves.

The more blowby an engine has due to cylinder and piston ring wear, the greater the volume of crankcase vapors that are pulled back into the engine by the PCV system. High mileage engines typically have more blowby than low mileage engines, so the build up of intake valve deposits is usually faster.



Poor valve seals have been a leading cause of valve and piston deposits for decades, not just with DI engines. The Ford 4.6 had serious valve seal issues up to 96 when they were re-designed. My 69 Ford 6 cyl had valve seal issues as well, and caused serious piston and valve deposits. I replaced then twice myself. Chevy V8s also have a long history of valve seal problems, which I replaced on my 77 Nova 305.

In recent years I have been using 0-20 oils in my Fords, but when I bore scoped both Duratechs a couple of years ago not a single oil generated deposit was found on the pistons. Also I couldn't see any deposits around the valves that were open. The valve stems and guides are lubed by oil for sure, but quality seals and seal design will prevent oil from getting past the seals, in the same since oil won't get past front and real main seals until the seal becomes damaged and needs to be replaced.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: tig1
Please explain "what rock have you been under? While you are at it(which you didn't do)explain how oil can cause deposits on valves?

This topic has been covered hundreds of times on here, tig1. A quick google search would provide some insight. Here is one of the first links that pops up....

http://www.aa1car.com/library/intake_valve_deposits_gdi_engines.htm

Quote:
What Causes Intake Valve Deposits

Intake valve deposits form as a result of oil slowly seeping past the intake valve guide seals and down the valve guides. A tiny amount of oil is necessary to lubricate the guides, but when oil reaches the hot surface of the valve, it can stick and burn forming heavy black carbon deposits that gradually build up over time. The higher the mileage on the engine and the greater the wear in the valve guides and seals, the faster the accumulation of black carbon deposits on the intake valves. Low viscosity motor oils (such as 5W-20 and 0W-20) may make the problem worse because they are thinner (to reduce friction) and flow more easily down the valve guides. Conventional motor oils also have a lower flash point than synthetic oils, which can also increase the formation of deposits over time.

Another contributing factor to the formation of intake valve deposits is unburned fuel vapors and oil vapors being siphoned back into the intake manifold through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. This is done to control crankcase emissions and to remove moisture from the oil (which helps prolong oil life). The fuel vapors, carbon particles and oil droplets that the PCV system routes back into the intake manifold are reburned in the engine to reduce pollution. But these same vapors can also form carbon and varnish deposits on the intake valves.

The more blowby an engine has due to cylinder and piston ring wear, the greater the volume of crankcase vapors that are pulled back into the engine by the PCV system. High mileage engines typically have more blowby than low mileage engines, so the build up of intake valve deposits is usually faster.



Poor valve seals have been a leading cause of valve and piston deposits for decades, not just with DI engines. The Ford 4.6 had serious valve seal issues up to 96 when they were re-designed. My 69 Ford 6 cyl had valve seal issues as well, and caused serious piston and valve deposits. I replaced then twice myself. Chevy V8s also have a long history of valve seal problems, which I replaced on my 77 Nova 305.

In recent years I have been using 0-20 oils in my Fords, but when I bore scoped both Duratechs a couple of years ago not a single oil generated deposit was found on the pistons. Also I couldn't see any deposits around the valves that were open. The valve stems and guides are lubed by oil for sure, but quality seals and seal design will prevent oil from getting past the seals, in the same since oil won't get past front and real main seals until the seal becomes damaged and needs to be replaced. If enough oil is passing by the valve seals then some of those deposits will form on the piston also. Perhaps valve stem deposits are caused by the oil vapors. We do know oil vapors cause gunk to collect around the throttle plate and TP sensor which needs to be cleaned every 1-2 years. Or at least should be. Just a thought,
but what ever is causing serious valve deposits with DI it shows me this DI stuff is technology in reverse.
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Poor valve seals have been a leading cause of valve and piston deposits for decades, not just with DI engines.

The difference is that in a traditional engine, the valves get washed off by the fuel, so it helps reduce those deposits.
 
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