U joints
- Thread starter dlundblad
- Start date
- Status
I've done a lot of Jeep work for both customers and myself. I typically install Spicer non-greasable.
I don't know if there has been an official test, but the thought is that the non-greasables are a bit stronger for off road use.
If you don't wheel and are looking for serviceability, then buy the greasable as you can purge any contaminants that get in.
I don't know if there has been an official test, but the thought is that the non-greasables are a bit stronger for off road use.
If you don't wheel and are looking for serviceability, then buy the greasable as you can purge any contaminants that get in.
I know every vehicle (and u-joints) are different, but,
do the greaseable really last any longer ? ? ?
With each type, how long should each last ? ? ?
I grease mine and only see grease come out of (1) Seal.
I have 98,000 miles on mine now.
Must be getting thourghly greased.
do the greaseable really last any longer ? ? ?
With each type, how long should each last ? ? ?
I grease mine and only see grease come out of (1) Seal.
I have 98,000 miles on mine now.
Must be getting thourghly greased.
IMO Its more a downgrade if like to like quality is used. lots of 18+ yrs old Ford and GMC pickup trucks and SUV running around with LFL joints in them with that many harsh NE winters to their credit. Pretty hard to beat that for reliable if you ask me.
I have always used greasable joints as replacements. I grease them once a year and I have never had to replace that or any greasable part for the remaining life of my vehicles. I do have both an 87 truck and vehicle. U joints and front end parts replaced in the 90's and are still good and tight.
Last edited:
Most everything I've read says use spicer or moog non-greasable. That's what I install myself.
When I first started in this business 45 years ago there was no such thing as LFL joints, LOF (Lube Oil and Filter) every 3K max was the norm and we greased them properly yet we replaced a ton of joints of every description.
The problem isn't if it can be greased or not its how to keep contaminants out. LFL boots and seals do a superior job of sealing the joint, if grease can come out then water and dirt/sand can get in its that simple.
The problem isn't if it can be greased or not its how to keep contaminants out. LFL boots and seals do a superior job of sealing the joint, if grease can come out then water and dirt/sand can get in its that simple.
I used to be a fan of greaseable joints because, in theory, they will last forever if you keep them greased.
The issue I noticed I had was , at least one passage on each joint would get plugged and the cap would dry out and it would fail just as quickly as a sealed joint.
I still have grease able in my rear driveshaft, but I have a stack of Spicer 1310 joints waiting to go back in when one or more of the joints fails.
Spicer lubed for life joints are what I plan on using in the future
The issue I noticed I had was , at least one passage on each joint would get plugged and the cap would dry out and it would fail just as quickly as a sealed joint.
I still have grease able in my rear driveshaft, but I have a stack of Spicer 1310 joints waiting to go back in when one or more of the joints fails.
Spicer lubed for life joints are what I plan on using in the future
Also - front yoke from the t-case! I believe it's a flange with the CV shaft
I ran greasable in my stuff but spicer recommends 3k regressing which meant I had to pull the skid plate and driveshaft every time. Went back to sealed
I have to drop the rear driveshaft on mine to grease the centering ball on the double cardan joint. My Cherokee still has a floor so I can't go down through the floor to lube it.
And the serviceable lower ball joints require me to take the unit bearing out. Luckily, it doesn't matter if I run timken or cheapies, I have to replace them yearly.
And the serviceable lower ball joints require me to take the unit bearing out. Luckily, it doesn't matter if I run timken or cheapies, I have to replace them yearly.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Is it considered an upgrade to go with greasable U joints?
Cost wise, it's only a few dollars more.
This would be for my Jeep, which didn't come with greasable U joints.
Nope. If you like servicing your jeep, get the greasable. If u don't like it, get the sealed.
Is it considered an upgrade to go with greasable U joints?
Cost wise, it's only a few dollars more.
This would be for my Jeep, which didn't come with greasable U joints.
Nope. If you like servicing your jeep, get the greasable. If u don't like it, get the sealed.
I usually break u joints in my Jeep long before they wear out. Of course, I'm driving on stuff you can't walk on.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I usually break u joints in my Jeep long before they wear out. Of course, I'm driving on stuff you can't walk on.
Rausch Creek claimed many things on mine! Diff covers, shocks, tire valve stem. I've had a few let go. Still waiting for that one to let go and take out the ball joint
I usually break u joints in my Jeep long before they wear out. Of course, I'm driving on stuff you can't walk on.
Rausch Creek claimed many things on mine! Diff covers, shocks, tire valve stem. I've had a few let go. Still waiting for that one to let go and take out the ball joint
I was thinking the non greaseable were ideal, but wanted to make sure.
Sadly, it is very hard to find quality (non house brand) non greasable U joints locally.
Oreilly's has greaseable spicers with lifetime warranty. They have their house brands (greaseable and non) with a 2 year warranty too.
Sadly, it is very hard to find quality (non house brand) non greasable U joints locally.
Oreilly's has greaseable spicers with lifetime warranty. They have their house brands (greaseable and non) with a 2 year warranty too.
FWIW, I have blown apart several manufacturers "alloy" joints in only a matter of an off road trip or two. I am lucky I run 4340 chromoly axleshafts and didn't bust the ears off too.
I am on the same Spicer joints going on two years!
I am on the same Spicer joints going on two years!
Non greasable, BUT MAKE SURE YOU PACK THE NEW ONES WITH THE RECOMMENDED GREASE WHILE INSTALLING.
Last edited:
I work part-time for a trucking company as a driver, and our PTO shafts (used to operate a dry bulk blower) kept failing with the greasable joints until a parts rep recommended lubed for life joints. We haven't had one fail in a long time.
- Status
