Coolant filter plumbing

[Colt45ws]

So, I bought a 11/16 filter head and Im gonna run a Wix 24069 or equiv. My question is should I run it in parallel with the heater core or in series. I think series would get a good flow through the filter but I am concerned about losing heating power. Is there enough pressure drop across the heater core to induce some flow in parallel?
Thanks!

 

[Johnny2Bad]

Well, I don't know about "heating power", and you aren't specific enough to know what, exactly, you are trying to do. But I would be very wary of anything that had the potential to restrict coolant flow and volume.

 

[Colt45ws]

Im trying to figure out the best way to plumb a coolant filter on my Crown Vic.
Should I remove one of the heater hoses and run all the flow to the heater core though the filter? (Series)
Or should I cut both heater hoses, install a T and run the filter across the two hoses (Parallel)

 

[Dyusik]

I'd cut into one of my heater hoses I I did it. Even if filter plugs solid the cooling system is not compromised. And I decide to scrap the idea, only one hose to replace and is not complicated.

 

[Falcon_LS]

When I used one, I linked it up to the little hose from the radiator to the overflow tank. Worked pretty well, but that was a smaller filter.

 

[Donald]

I would run it in series in a heater core line. But I would check and clean before it gets cold. I believe you will remove the crud in the cooling system and not too much new crud will be forming assuming the proper coolant is in there and not some mixture.

For the summer you could run it to bypass the heater core.

 

[Food Scientist]

In line. Look at what they do on 18 wheelers, which I believe is placed in a main coolant line.

 

[Kira]

I'm just going to guess that running it in series would be the best approach because, as stated by previous poster, you'd only be cutting one line AND (my part) you'll be effecting the flow through the heater's core in a straightforward manner.

EXAMPLE: During the cold weather you'll be quick to register progressive ineffectiveness of your heater. You'd then be able to remedy or reverse the modification.

I have NO IDEA how much force the coolant has on its way to the core so I wouldn't select the "parallel" option. You might short circuit the heater's operation by doing that.

THOUGHT: My soft and tired brain wants to think that placing a filter at a lower point in a system would be preferable because crud would tend to sink. In this application you're counting on crud being pumped up to the heater's circuit. I don't know.
Don't radiators clog from the bottom up?

Is it me or do car companies make the location of block drain plugs a mystery on purpose? Kira

 

[SHOZ]

I put one on my Gen Coupe. Used the throttle body coolant lines. The filter I had had a very small inlet hole so no way would you put it in series with the heater core.

Had it on a year or so and opened the filter only to find nothing. So I took it out of the loop.

 

[racin4ds]

Most coolant filters have a very small restrictive hole in the inlet so you would NOT want to use it inline! They are designed to be used as bypass filtration and only filtering small amounts of coolant at a time.

 

[Colt45ws]

Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Most coolant filters have a very small restrictive hole in the inlet so you would NOT want to use it inline! They are designed to be used as bypass filtration and only filtering small amounts of coolant at a time.

That was my concern, that it wouldn't pass enough coolant even new, because of the restrictor.

 

[i_hate_autofraud]

Check and see what the spec flow rate on the Wix 24069 is. Hopefully that filter is designed for water and not oil. Cellulose filter media can break up like toilet paper if design for oil and used for water.....

Personally for a car, I don't see a big benefit for a coolant filter unless you see lots of [censored] during a coolant change.

In my case the coolant has looked good for years, the big issue is coolant pH causing corrosion if left in too long, so I just change the 5 yr coolant at 3 years, cheaper then replacing a rad or heater core!!

 

[i_hate_autofraud]

I just checked the specs on Wix 24069 it's designed for coolant with no chemicals.

It has a nominal rating of 27 microns. This means it has a Beta ratio of 2 (50% filtering at 27 microns) So the filter it'self is not restrictive.

I'd take out any restrictor in any other fittings and run in series with the heater core, at 27 microns, pressure drop is not an issue.

If you run in parallel, you'll shunt away hot water flow rate to the heater core and the car will be barely warm.

All told, series is best!

 

[Colt45ws]

You can't take out the restrictor because its inside the filter. Take a look down the center hold of SHOZ's filter and you will see the orifice it uses. Its pretty small.
And yeah, I get loads of silt and rusty deposits every time I change the coolant. Im tired of wasting time flushing it and getting more and more garbage. Im just gonna filter it all out.

 

[SHOZ]

 

[Trav]

I would T off the heater core outlet hose with a small reduced T to the filter and back into the system near the bottle, almost like a bypass filter.
If you went really slick you could get an old bottle and see if you can put an extra brass barb fitting in it VW Golf bottle style.
No idea if any of this will work just visualizing in my head.

 

[Superflop]

If you have a pressurized coolant Tank plumb it into the coolant return from the engine, not the lead to the radiator. If that is unavailable I would remove the inlet line of the heater core and without cutting, plug that Into the Inlet of the filter housing and the outlet of the filter to the heater core. This will keep you from altering the hose so removal is easy and keeps any junk out of your core as filters are typically easier to replace than a heater core. If you have a bypass out from your water pump this is another good place for a filter. But personally I would go inline to the heater core.

 

[bullwinkle]

I have mine parallel to the heater core on my F-450 7.3 in my sig-a tee in each heater hose, with the filter in between. I use it year-round, still get good heat, the restrictor cuts down the flow through the filter. Just make sure to get the (hot)in & (cooler) out lines to the filter correct, & use "blank", that is, NO SCA coolant filters, you don't need SCA in a modular gas engine.

 

[bullwinkle]

Also, you WILL filter out the crud circulating through the engine-my 7.3 had so much silicate & rust in it that the coolant was brown & causing it to run hot, even starting to plug the brass radiator tubes. Had the radiator boiled out & put new green in it with DCA-2 SCAs, been doing well for several years now.

 

[Colt45ws]

Thanks bullwinkle, thats exactly the info I was looking for. I will T off both heater hoses and run it from there. Kind of annoying I have to cut my nice silicone hoses, but I can just put in a straight through fitting if I take it off.
Now I have to figure out which direction the flow is going. I think I can just put a piece of clear vinyl tubing to short it out between the two tees, and trap something between the tubing and the fitting so I can see which direction the flow pushes it.