There is no need to use an oil additive to thicken the oil, just buy a thicker oil in the first place, like Maxlife 10w40.
SO is lucas oil stabilizer just a joke?
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
Synthetic oil doesn't cause it to leak; it clears out the stuff that's stopping the engine from leaking ... there's already something missing and it's covered in crud.
If you have a high time engine that was run on conventional oil and has some degree of sludge deposits, switching to a full synthetic, or an oil that has a lot of detergents can make any oil leaks worse. The reason is what they call the false oil seal effect, where sludge is helping a worn or split oil seal to function. In a bad case you might need to use a stop leak additive to reduce any resulting oil leaks.
The problem is a lot worse if you use a flush additive in an engine that has oil leaks.
Synthetic oil doesn't cause it to leak; it clears out the stuff that's stopping the engine from leaking ... there's already something missing and it's covered in crud.
If you have a high time engine that was run on conventional oil and has some degree of sludge deposits, switching to a full synthetic, or an oil that has a lot of detergents can make any oil leaks worse. The reason is what they call the false oil seal effect, where sludge is helping a worn or split oil seal to function. In a bad case you might need to use a stop leak additive to reduce any resulting oil leaks.
The problem is a lot worse if you use a flush additive in an engine that has oil leaks.
Almost guaranteed it is polyisobutylene, AKA PIB. It's readily available from independent refiners in bulk for maybe $10/gal ...
http://www.tpcgrp.com/tpc-group/products/polyisobutylene-150.html
It's the number one product to make a multi-grade dino oil cheaply. It's already in a lot of oils (and other stuff
) ...
http://www.tpcgrp.com/tpc-group/products/polyisobutylene-150.html
It's the number one product to make a multi-grade dino oil cheaply. It's already in a lot of oils (and other stuff
If people wanted to know if Lucas fills a need..YES it does. When I NEED the door hinge to stop squeeking at home it is my go to product. If you feel the need to use anything even close to a Lucas then you should use Liquimoly Motor Oil Saver.It fixed my rear main seal,has a ester which does wonders,and increases TBN. It too is thick,but actually has detergents and conditioners.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
There is no need to use an oil additive to thicken the oil, just buy a thicker oil in the first place, like Maxlife 10w40.
IF you even need a thicker oil in the first place.
But yes.
There is no need to use an oil additive to thicken the oil, just buy a thicker oil in the first place, like Maxlife 10w40.
IF you even need a thicker oil in the first place.
But yes.
My jeep wj 4.0 liked Rotella T6. Before that I used Pennzoil High Mileage. After about 1000 miles I noticed that as soon as I turned the jeep off thered be a couple drops on the ground of oil. Darn. I switched to M1 HM and no more spots on the driveway. But I would get a drop or two on the exhaust.
So I went under the jeep, not the RMS. Turns out I must have had a very slow leak at the valve cover. It is getting under the intake manifold and running down the side of the block down to the driver side corner of the bell housing. Turn the jeep off and couple of hours later and you can see a little bit of oil on that corner of the bell housing. Wait til next morning and there will be a drop or two on the exhaust. Dont know why the T6 leaked more out of the valve cover than the others. Took the torque wrench to the valve cover bolts and they all were good. So I plan on replacing the valve cover gasket at some point.
I liked the T6 but I could feel it in the butt dyno. It was smooth but I could feel how it was a little slower. My jeep really likes the m1 hm so Im sticking with it.
So I went under the jeep, not the RMS. Turns out I must have had a very slow leak at the valve cover. It is getting under the intake manifold and running down the side of the block down to the driver side corner of the bell housing. Turn the jeep off and couple of hours later and you can see a little bit of oil on that corner of the bell housing. Wait til next morning and there will be a drop or two on the exhaust. Dont know why the T6 leaked more out of the valve cover than the others. Took the torque wrench to the valve cover bolts and they all were good. So I plan on replacing the valve cover gasket at some point.
I liked the T6 but I could feel it in the butt dyno. It was smooth but I could feel how it was a little slower. My jeep really likes the m1 hm so Im sticking with it.
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