If they are all gummy, I would just clean them with WD-40 , let them dry a day and wax them with car wax. I used to hunt in the rain and snow and my ex father in-law showed me the car wax trick, water just beads off them. My dad ruined a stock Finnish on a Remington 7600 in the rain. I refinished it since it was the 1966 bicentennial model.
what to use on shotgun stocks
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Originally Posted By: Panzerman
If they are all gummy, I would just clean them with WD-40 , let them dry a day and wax them with car wax. I used to hunt in the rain and snow and my ex father in-law showed me the car wax trick, water just beads off them. My dad ruined a stock Finnish on a Remington 7600 in the rain. I refinished it since it was the 1966 bicentennial model.
That does work to protect the finish...but it is best to use a natural carnauba wax if you are ever intending to refinish the stock. Silicone is about impossible to get out of wood (One reason I hate pledge) However, a tub of Johnsons paste wax is essentially natural wax, is found just about everywhere, is cheap, and spreads easily.
If they are all gummy, I would just clean them with WD-40 , let them dry a day and wax them with car wax. I used to hunt in the rain and snow and my ex father in-law showed me the car wax trick, water just beads off them. My dad ruined a stock Finnish on a Remington 7600 in the rain. I refinished it since it was the 1966 bicentennial model.
That does work to protect the finish...but it is best to use a natural carnauba wax if you are ever intending to refinish the stock. Silicone is about impossible to get out of wood (One reason I hate pledge) However, a tub of Johnsons paste wax is essentially natural wax, is found just about everywhere, is cheap, and spreads easily.
I have a bottle of "Howard Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner". Tempting to try it on an old stock since I've had good luck using it on some other things.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
However, a tub of Johnsons paste wax is essentially natural wax, is found just about everywhere, is cheap, and spreads easily.
Johnsons paste wax is anything but "natural" Small percentage of carnuba wax and paraffin..the rest 75% to 85% is Solvent.
However, a tub of Johnsons paste wax is essentially natural wax, is found just about everywhere, is cheap, and spreads easily.
Johnsons paste wax is anything but "natural" Small percentage of carnuba wax and paraffin..the rest 75% to 85% is Solvent.
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
However, a tub of Johnsons paste wax is essentially natural wax, is found just about everywhere, is cheap, and spreads easily.
Johnsons paste wax is anything but "natural" Small percentage of carnuba wax and paraffin..the rest 75% to 85% is Solvent.
My point is, that unlike many car waxes, it does not contain anything that will hinder a refinish. Wood soaks up silicone and make applying certain finishes about impossible without making some serious compromises. I would much prefer the old school paraffin to silicones that replaced them when concerning wood. Unlike metal, you cannot get silicone out of wood. If you are going to use a car wax, better make sure it is silicone free.
and for what is worth, the ingredients are carnauba (natural) and microcrystaline waxes (main wax used in Renaissance wax, what most firearms museums use), stoddard solvent (essentially mineral spirits), and parrafin wax.
There is NO wax that is all natural since they contain solvents to make them applicable to a surface.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
However, a tub of Johnsons paste wax is essentially natural wax, is found just about everywhere, is cheap, and spreads easily.
Johnsons paste wax is anything but "natural" Small percentage of carnuba wax and paraffin..the rest 75% to 85% is Solvent.
My point is, that unlike many car waxes, it does not contain anything that will hinder a refinish. Wood soaks up silicone and make applying certain finishes about impossible without making some serious compromises. I would much prefer the old school paraffin to silicones that replaced them when concerning wood. Unlike metal, you cannot get silicone out of wood. If you are going to use a car wax, better make sure it is silicone free.
and for what is worth, the ingredients are carnauba (natural) and microcrystaline waxes (main wax used in Renaissance wax, what most firearms museums use), stoddard solvent (essentially mineral spirits), and parrafin wax.
There is NO wax that is all natural since they contain solvents to make them applicable to a surface.
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I've refinished dozens of M1 Carbine walnut stocks, with the final product being BLO. I tried Tung but didn't care for it although a lot of purists swear by it. Either one takes
a LONG TIME to dry, especially if its humid.
For your guns, I'd suggest a product made by Birchwood Casey called "Stock Sheen & Conditioner". Great for freshening up walnut stocks. Adds just a touch of walnut color and makes stocks look very good. You can find it in any good gun store or perhaps even Walmart.
a LONG TIME to dry, especially if its humid.
For your guns, I'd suggest a product made by Birchwood Casey called "Stock Sheen & Conditioner". Great for freshening up walnut stocks. Adds just a touch of walnut color and makes stocks look very good. You can find it in any good gun store or perhaps even Walmart.
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and for what is worth, the ingredients are carnauba (natural) and microcrystaline waxes (main wax used in Renaissance wax, what most firearms museums use), stoddard solvent (essentially mineral spirits), and parrafin wax.
There is NO wax that is all natural since they contain solvents to make them applicable to a surface.
The only reason I brought it up (I am no expert)..My wife worked in a museum aqnd they had a guy come in and redo the 200+ year old plank floors. He used Briwax. I was talking to him and mentioned why not the Johnson't paste wax. He said he wouldn't use that stuff on an outhouse.
Just passing it on. Its what I now use on furniture.
and for what is worth, the ingredients are carnauba (natural) and microcrystaline waxes (main wax used in Renaissance wax, what most firearms museums use), stoddard solvent (essentially mineral spirits), and parrafin wax.
There is NO wax that is all natural since they contain solvents to make them applicable to a surface.
The only reason I brought it up (I am no expert)..My wife worked in a museum aqnd they had a guy come in and redo the 200+ year old plank floors. He used Briwax. I was talking to him and mentioned why not the Johnson't paste wax. He said he wouldn't use that stuff on an outhouse.
Just passing it on. Its what I now use on furniture.
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If you use Briwax, be aware that it CAN damage any oil finish that is not properly cured because it uses toluene as its solvent instead of mineral spirits. They do make a toluene free version, and if you chose to use that brand, I would get that.
If one wants to go above the consumer grade Johnsons or Minwax, and you have a wood working store around that carries it, I always suggest Liberon's Black Bison wax. It is darn good stuff (like all Liberon products). But you will find it uses the same waxes as Johnsons, just higher grade ones.
If one wants to go above the consumer grade Johnsons or Minwax, and you have a wood working store around that carries it, I always suggest Liberon's Black Bison wax. It is darn good stuff (like all Liberon products). But you will find it uses the same waxes as Johnsons, just higher grade ones.
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Originally Posted By: Al
I was talking to him and mentioned why not the Johnson't paste wax. He said he wouldn't use that stuff on an outhouse.
Did he happen to elaborate on WHY he, "wouldn't use it on an outhouse"? Or was that the crux of his "expertise"?
I was talking to him and mentioned why not the Johnson't paste wax. He said he wouldn't use that stuff on an outhouse.
Did he happen to elaborate on WHY he, "wouldn't use it on an outhouse"? Or was that the crux of his "expertise"?
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
If you use Briwax, be aware that it CAN damage any oil finish that is not properly cured because it uses toluene as its solvent instead of mineral spirits. They do make a toluene free version, and if you chose to use that brand, I would get that.
If one wants to go above the consumer grade Johnsons or Minwax, and you have a wood working store around that carries it, I always suggest Liberon's Black Bison wax. It is darn good stuff (like all Liberon products). But you will find it uses the same waxes as Johnsons, just higher grade ones.
Thanks a lot!!!
Built. No he didn't. Again..no . real sense that he was correct!
If you use Briwax, be aware that it CAN damage any oil finish that is not properly cured because it uses toluene as its solvent instead of mineral spirits. They do make a toluene free version, and if you chose to use that brand, I would get that.
If one wants to go above the consumer grade Johnsons or Minwax, and you have a wood working store around that carries it, I always suggest Liberon's Black Bison wax. It is darn good stuff (like all Liberon products). But you will find it uses the same waxes as Johnsons, just higher grade ones.
Thanks a lot!!!
Built. No he didn't. Again..no . real sense that he was correct!
I am now into all polymer stocks.....clean em with Windex and clean rag. If I was taking a wood stock into the rain and snow I would simply remove all wax, steel wool it with xxxx and then apply 2-3 coats of satin or semi gloss polyurethane and let dry for a week before reassembly.
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Originally Posted By: Doog
I am now into all polymer stocks.....clean em with Windex and clean rag. If I was taking a wood stock into the rain and snow I would simply remove all wax, steel wool it with xxxx and then apply 2-3 coats of satin or semi gloss polyurethane and let dry for a week before reassembly.
Hard to poly a stock without messing up checkering. You have to tape off the checkering and apply a very very thinned down coat on the checkering so it doesn't build. Also the problem with poly is that it is very hard to repair. You have to sand between coats, and if you chip it there will always be a witness marks that pop out.
I think one would be much better served by something like a non poly marine spar varnish for an on the wood finish. It would be more flexible which is good since wood can swell in humidity. That or use something like an oil/varnish blend like Minwax Antique Oil Finish (only Minwax product I really like aside from their aerosol lacquer)
I am now into all polymer stocks.....clean em with Windex and clean rag. If I was taking a wood stock into the rain and snow I would simply remove all wax, steel wool it with xxxx and then apply 2-3 coats of satin or semi gloss polyurethane and let dry for a week before reassembly.
Hard to poly a stock without messing up checkering. You have to tape off the checkering and apply a very very thinned down coat on the checkering so it doesn't build. Also the problem with poly is that it is very hard to repair. You have to sand between coats, and if you chip it there will always be a witness marks that pop out.
I think one would be much better served by something like a non poly marine spar varnish for an on the wood finish. It would be more flexible which is good since wood can swell in humidity. That or use something like an oil/varnish blend like Minwax Antique Oil Finish (only Minwax product I really like aside from their aerosol lacquer)
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Doog and Rob- 3 light coats of this stuff in the aerosol can will work well if you want to seal out a wood stock.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clea...n-spar-urethane
If you have bare wood and want to give it an old school finish, a few coats of tung oil or one of the antique oil based finishes works well.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clea...n-spar-urethane
If you have bare wood and want to give it an old school finish, a few coats of tung oil or one of the antique oil based finishes works well.
Not a fan of the Helmsman stuff.
Once you use something like Epifanes marine varnish (phenolic tung oil based), you would never go back to the Minwax stuff. I pretty much never use aerosols anymore, having HVLP setups for different wood finishes.
https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-finishes
Once you use something like Epifanes marine varnish (phenolic tung oil based), you would never go back to the Minwax stuff. I pretty much never use aerosols anymore, having HVLP setups for different wood finishes.
https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-finishes
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