Check Engine Light - Infiniti Q50S

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So... my check engine light came on on my 2016 Infiniti Q50S the other day and was hoping to get some advice from those who have owned Nissan/Infiniti vehicles before. Because I live in the wonderful state of New Jersey, I can't fill my own gas because they're afraid we might set the whole state on fire. With that said, the gas attendant was kind enough to not even screw my gas cap on at all and saw it just sit in place in the fuel filler when I noticed the light.

Now, for all the other cars I've owned, the light would usually go out on its own after about 50 miles or so but this light is being particularly stubborn. It's been about about 36 hours now and the light still hasn't turned off. I have since driven close to 400 miles as I had to go from NYC to DC for work and the light is still stubbornly staying on. I'd normally fret because I'm pretty anal about this kind of thing but after reading the manual it says to give it a few days and doesn't mention mileage. Does anyone have any idea how long this usually takes or should I just head to the dealer tomorrow?
 
Originally Posted By: FordBroncoVWJeta
If you want it gone right now, just go unplug the battery for 5mins.


+1
 
I'm not sure how Infiniti's OBDII EVAP readiness monitor / drive cycle works but it's possible with all the driving the ECU has not seen the drive cycle requirements to complete or run the EVAP readiness monitor yet to clear the EVAP code.

Want the light off ASAP? Have someone clear codes or pull the neg cable off the battery for 15 minutes.
 
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Once the car sits overnight for at least 4 hours, it'll run its self test & pull a vacuum on the tank. Give a couple nights & it will clear if it's a gross leak code
 
The evap monitor will only run when the car has more than 1/4 and below 3/4 of a tank of fuel.
The next time the car has a fuel level in this range start it cold and go for a 10 min drive keeping the speed as steady as possible.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You can buy $50K car but don't have $20 code reader?


I know people with high end cars and don't even know what a code reader is and they don't want to know.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You can buy $50K car but don't have $20 code reader?


I know people with high end cars and don't even know what a code reader is and they don't want to know.


But they probably don't go to websites like this..
cool.gif
 
If you pull off the battery cable to clear a code (doesn't always work) then all your presets in the car and radio may be lost too!!
Read and clear the code correctly is better.
 
as mentioned above acquire a low end code reader, so that you can ascertain what code you are getting...by the way how do you know what code you have right now?

If you don't want to get a cheap code reader, go to autozone and have them pull code(s) right now, after explaining to them about the gas cap and if the code matches up, they can just clear it for you.
 
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Originally Posted By: John_Conrad
if the code matches up, they can just clear it for you.
I don't know about the glorious Garden State, but here Taxachusetts parts stores are forbidden to clear codes.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You can buy $50K car but don't have $20 code reader?


I know people with high end cars and don't even know what a code reader is and they don't want to know.


OK; so do you think this 2016 owner who can't be bothered to purchase $20 code reader is going to disconnect his battery to erase the code? Somebody actually gave him that advice! If ever a dope slap is needed, that guy deserves it.
 
Just wait. DONT PULL BATT, or, ECU fuse unless you want to possibly screw up 10 other things with bg current surges in 12v super high amperage systems.

Forget it's ON, it will eventually go off. I had a MIL on for 3-4 days for a MAF failure and it cleared itself after about 17-23 KON-KOFF cycles.

I would DO NOTHING. learn to LET IT GO!!!

Brought to you by:
Your LocaL AADD/OCD sponsor

Ken
 
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Not all codes take the same number of cycles to clear. Perhaps as long as it took for you to notice the cap was incorrectly tightened. I would think after a couple/3 days it should clear if the evap system didnt get messed up somehow
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The evap monitor will only run when the car has more than 1/4 and below 3/4 of a tank of fuel.
The next time the car has a fuel level in this range start it cold and go for a 10 min drive keeping the speed as steady as possible.
as stated wait till half a tank then let the car sit overnight. There is also a temperature rule in the evap test. Go for a drive if it was the cap that will take care of it. Also make sure you tighten the cap to atleast 3 clicks.
 
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To all the unhelpful people who think they need to post their nonsense and make their assumptions to feel better about themselves, be sure to pat yourself on the back. I mean, I only explained in the original post that I'm away on a business trip to DC but whatever. Maybe some of you have a need to take all tools with you everywhere you go but I'm not one of them. Why make assumptions on someone's spending? Does it make you feel better somehow? Looking at you "Vikas." Are you overcompensating much or are you just 18 years old? After reading your responses, I don't think I'll ever need your advice on anything so please feel free to just not respond to anything I post.

I'd rather not pull the negative cable because I don't want everything reset. Specifically just asked how long it takes for the light to disappear.

For those who managed to provide some actual advice without sounding like a complete troll, thank you. You all seem to be more of a rare breed on the internet these days.
 
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Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
If you pull off the battery cable to clear a code (doesn't always work) then all your presets in the car and radio may be lost too!!

If it's at all like my G37, the radio presets and audio settings will be fine. I spent a bunch of time writing them down when I changed my battery, for no reason. The memory seat and the climate control settings will be lost, though.
 
The evap monitor can take some time to run its test and the new ones like yours can be even longer.
Clearing the codes wont do anything but put the CEL out, it will still need to run the evap monitor and all the others also. AFAIK there is no way for the dealer to "hurry up" the monitoring process, it needs to take its course.

Just drive it, as long as the CEL doesn't blink and the engine is running normally (meaning the code was for something other than a P455 gross evap leak and its just a coincidence that the cap was loose) you will be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The evap monitor can take some time to run its test and the new ones like yours can be even longer.
Clearing the codes wont do anything but put the CEL out, it will still need to run the evap monitor and all the others also. AFAIK there is no way for the dealer to "hurry up" the monitoring process, it needs to take its course.

Just drive it, as long as the CEL doesn't blink and the engine is running normally (meaning the code was for something other than a P455 gross evap leak and its just a coincidence that the cap was loose) you will be fine.
yep that is a systems readiness test which is a process of the emissions system and it is reset when the battery is disconnected so even if some tests were completed and others failed (the cel) everything then would need to retest. Even if the light goes away you arent necessarily fix8ng anything. Typically it is a p1000 and will not set a cel but will cause you to fail state emissions testing.
 
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