F-150 - 2.7L Ecoboost - M1 5w20 - 5,524 miles

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Attached is the latest drain from my F150. Roughly 65% of the drain was towing my race car hauler at 85-90% GVW at 70+ mph. The OLM was counting down 1% per 100 miles on the dot leading to a 10,000 mile OCI. The manual says the OCI for heavy towing is 3,000-5,000 miles so dumping it here to get a data point seemed worth it. Previous oil changes were at 2,345 and 10,859. Refilled with PPPP and will likely run that close to 10k since I don't tow through the winter.

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So far so good (assuming I don't have a coolant leak starting.) I'm getting 23-25 mpg for normal around town tanks and 8-10 mpg towing my car hauler. The start/stop system works great and the engine has more than enough power for anything I want to do.
 
I would look to a 5w30 that has some A5 specs like PU or QSUD. You did a lot of towing so that maybe why it sheared some. Glad you ran a 30wt and not 20 lol. I would look to find a stout oil for your next towing season like Amsoil SSO,Pennzoil Ultra,QSUD,or Redline. Maybe M1 EP too but if these or any oil cant improve your UOA keep seaching for a better oil. I always used HTO-6 spec 5w30 in my Hyundai GDi as I found its oil requirement more than met my cars needed oil spec but better safe than sorry. It gave my almost 200,000k in 28 months running A5 and HTO-6 spec 5w30 oils.
 
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M1 developed the HTO-06 spec for Honda. I would increase the OCI to at least 7500 miles and srick with M1 5-30. Since your engine is still quite new, these numbers will improve as the miles increase.
 
Not dinging your choices or anything, but If I had a high specific output engine in the USA, Id Run a BMW LL or Merc 229.5 imported oil. Ditch the pseudo synthetic refined mineral oils. Too much $$$ at stake.

ps: I was born in Indianapolis middle of last century
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I don't know how much that rig that you're towing weighs, but based on the hot viscosity and flashpoint, I'd stick with a 5000 mile OCI if you stay w 5W-30. Possibly consider a 0W-40, 5W-40 or 15W-50 for continued towing in the summer. Maybe the 5w-30 #'s will get better after more break-in miles, but heavy towing normally speeds break-in.
 
Blackstone's fuel dilution estimates are near worthless. Given that the oil has sheared badly out of grade and has a quite low flashpoint, your dilution is almost surely way more than .5%. I'd suggest UOA by a different lab before extending the OCI further.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
I don't know how much that rig that you're towing weighs, but based on the hot viscosity and flashpoint, I'd stick with a 5000 mile OCI if you stay w 5W-30. Possibly consider a 0W-40, 5W-40 or 15W-50 for continued towing in the summer. Maybe the 5w-30 #'s will get better after more break-in miles, but heavy towing normally speeds break-in.


I'm usually around 12k lbs GCVW when towing the hauler fully loaded. About 1/2 of it's life so far has been pulling this setup so it's probably well broke in now. It is a 22'+ enclosed trailer so the aero drag on the interstate is the real killer. I'm really interested to know what the oil temps are when towing but water temp only rises to 206_F from a standard 200_F when not towing. Using the heavier weight might cause problems in this motor with the start/stop functionality and variable displacement oil pump. Everything on this engine was tuned for 5w30 so I don't want to get too far from that. You can count on the fact that the Ford engineers saw this same shearing in testing so it's not too unknown for this engine.
 
The oil has finished up rather on the thin side, so I would either cut the OCI to 3K miles, or move up to using an Xw40, so that the viscosity is in limits at the end of the OCI.
Obviously it would be worth trying a major brand fuel additive that is designed to clean gum deposits from the injection system to see if that helps with the fuel contamination issue.
 
Since the truck is used for towing, I'd go for a thicker 5w-30. Are there any available to you for a decent price that have an ACEA A3/B4 rating. The variable displacement oil pump has no issues with higher viscosity oil, it works during the warm-up of the engine, doesn't it? Viscosity also has no bearing on the Start/Stop functionality.

Your current oil ended up way out of spec, viscosity wise, it should not be lower than 9.3 cSt. How thick was the Mobil originally, I would expect 10 cSt at least? That means you lost over 20% in kinematic viscosity, which equates to 10% HTHS loss if the cause was permanent shearing. With fuel dilution the HTHS loss is likely higher, closer to 15%. If you get the same percentage drop with an A3/B4 oil (not likely) You'll still be in spec for a 30 weight oil. I guess the start/stop and oil pump don't mind thin oil either?

I don't understand where Blackstone gets it "should be values" from, probably from the universal averages.

How is the oil cooler setup on these engines? Is it an oil/water cooler or oil/air? In any event though, the oil will be significantly hotter than the coolant, close to 250 degrees on those sections where the transmission downshifts and rpms go up over normal (if you have those). I'm sure you know the oil temp in the hot spots will be even higher.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
The oil has finished up rather on the thin side, so I would either cut the OCI to 3K miles, or move up to using an Xw40, so that the viscosity is in limits at the end of the OCI.
Obviously it would be worth trying a major brand fuel additive that is designed to clean gum deposits from the injection system to see if that helps with the fuel contamination issue.


Gum deposits on an engine with 16K miles? 40wt oils? I don't think so.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
The oil has finished up rather on the thin side, so I would either cut the OCI to 3K miles, or move up to using an Xw40, so that the viscosity is in limits at the end of the OCI.
Obviously it would be worth trying a major brand fuel additive that is designed to clean gum deposits from the injection system to see if that helps with the fuel contamination issue.


I always run top tier fuel when possible so I can't see fuel deposits being an issue this soon in a truck's life when I'm getting great fuel economy.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Since the truck is used for towing, I'd go for a thicker 5w-30. Are there any available to you for a decent price that have an ACEA A3/B4 rating. The variable displacement oil pump has no issues with higher viscosity oil, it works during the warm-up of the engine, doesn't it? Viscosity also has no bearing on the Start/Stop functionality.

Your current oil ended up way out of spec, viscosity wise, it should not be lower than 9.3 cSt. How thick was the Mobil originally, I would expect 10 cSt at least? That means you lost over 20% in kinematic viscosity, which equates to 10% HTHS loss if the cause was permanent shearing. With fuel dilution the HTHS loss is likely higher, closer to 15%. If you get the same percentage drop with an A3/B4 oil (not likely) You'll still be in spec for a 30 weight oil. I guess the start/stop and oil pump don't mind thin oil either?

I don't understand where Blackstone gets it "should be values" from, probably from the universal averages.

How is the oil cooler setup on these engines? Is it an oil/water cooler or oil/air? In any event though, the oil will be significantly hotter than the coolant, close to 250 degrees on those sections where the transmission downshifts and rpms go up over normal (if you have those). I'm sure you know the oil temp in the hot spots will be even higher.


Lots of good thoughts here, I'll try to break my response down similarly.

From my understanding of the variable displacement pump is that it will work based on the engine's needs, not just during startup.

I haven't been able to map all the scenarios in which the auto S/S will not work but my concern with thicker oil is the delay in getting where it needs to go under successive startups. See how well hybrids perform with 20wt oil.

For the pump and auto S/S system not minding thinner oil. It is almost certain that lower viscosities were seen in testing and thus indirectly (possibly directly) validated.

The oil cooler is an oil/water cooler. The only time rpm ever goes over 3k is during engine braking when coming to a stop. The standard spot is around 2200-2300 rpm in 6th gear. I am very interested to see what the actual oil temps are. With a large 6qt sump it should help to keep the bulk heat down that is introduced even with the piston cooling nozzles. When I'm bored one day I'll probably throw in an oil temp monitor just to see what is happening. But with coolant only rising 6 deg_F with the turbos and partially integrated exhaust manifolding being cooled I have to imagine there isn't a lot of left over heat.
 
Exactly, the variable oil pump works regardless of viscosity (which is extremely high at start up - up to 60,000 cSt at -35°C). There's no delay in getting the oil anywhere. Hybrids use the 20w oil because they want exteme fuel efficiency and often don't even run till the engine gets hot (and viscosity down). They also have ICE with low power outputs. None will be towing a closed trailer

6 degree rise on the coolant means the thermostat is getting closer to wide open. Do you know what the nominal opening temp for the thermostat is?

But all that said, besides the oil viscosity being low the UOA was favourable.
 
The thermostat is rated at 190 deg_F. I mentioned the 6 deg_F temp rise since I would consider that a very minor increase, showing how well the cooling package of the engine is holding up based on the driving I am doing.

I realize it's not Davis Dam or Death Valley in August. But the small increase I see in mid-90s Midwest weather would translate pretty favorably to those more extreme conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
The oil has finished up rather on the thin side, so I would either cut the OCI to 3K miles, or move up to using an Xw40, so that the viscosity is in limits at the end of the OCI.
Obviously it would be worth trying a major brand fuel additive that is designed to clean gum deposits from the injection system to see if that helps with the fuel contamination issue.


Gum deposits on an engine with 16K miles? 40wt oils? I don't think so.


Sorry, I didn't notice the total mileage, so gum deposits are unlikely.

The viscosity at the end of the OCI is too low for heavy towing in summer, so although cutting the OCI would be one way to resolve that issue, it would make more sense to start with a thicker oil, hence the recommendation to move up to an Xw40.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


Sorry, I didn't notice the total mileage, so gum deposits are unlikely.

The viscosity at the end of the OCI is too low for heavy towing in summer, so although cutting the OCI would be one way to resolve that issue, it would make more sense to start with a thicker oil, hence the recommendation to move up to an Xw40.


While the viscosity is low I'm having trouble reaching the point that it is too low and causing issues. Comparing this UOA to the other 2.7L UOA that was just posted with roughly the same mileage and using PUP:

Metal Mine Other
Al 9 7
Cr 1 0
Fe 29 22
Cu 6 12
Vis 7.84 8.43

I would think the other sample could be considered a pretty good example of a near-best case scenario. The fact that my wear is only slightly higher bodes pretty well. My next oil drain will only involve around 1000 miles of towing and then run through the winter for normal commuting. Fuel dilution should be much lower since it won't be running rich towing as much. I will resample at the next change and see where things shake out.
 
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