I have been fond of Donaldson filters for my heavy duty needs for quite a long time. I am using a bypass on my Detroit, but it is the FS2500 one. Primarily got it because it came as a complete kit setup specifically for my engine and truck combination so was a simple, seamless install. I wasn't interested in turning a bypass installation into a Popular Mechanics project. And it does a good job and is cost effective. They say to change the bypass filter every 10,000 miles, but I take them over twice that long with similar results. It was a balancing act between installation and cost down the road.
Amsoil AME 15w40
- Thread starter alanwayne1908
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: rossn2
Originally Posted By: alanwayne1908
OK I'll bite, Can it not be used in Fla? I know 15W40 is the norm.Once warmed aren't they all 40 weights? I have used 5W40 Delo Synthetic and loved the instant oil pressure as compared to the 15W40 as there is a time lag...I called Delo engineer and asked about 5W40 only in cold and he answered absolutely not it can be used in extreme heat as well. I have current plans to try Amsoil AME 15W40 in my 2006 Duramax with UOA's to provide information as needed, I will admit I am a newbie and willing to soak up all info seasoned oil vets can provide. I have spent countless nights going thru UOA's on Duramax's and will admit I am learning but I love my Duramax as it is Pre-Emission. BTW DNewton has it going on..so school me...I'm willing to learn if wrong. BTW I love Banter as I am a High Voltage Journeyman Lineman ,In the trade over 35 years ago I have learned to let it roll off a ducks back.So teach me.I have also thought about Delo Dino at intervals every 7500 being cost effective but having good protection.
Not necessarily...Believe a 5w stays a 5w and will have modifiers to act like a 40 at operating temps..
a 15W stays a 15w and acts like a 40 when warm..
http://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/
What you posted is true, if we are talking about mineral oils. I believe the oil in the OP is synthetic.
Quote:
A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed.
Originally Posted By: alanwayne1908
OK I'll bite, Can it not be used in Fla? I know 15W40 is the norm.Once warmed aren't they all 40 weights? I have used 5W40 Delo Synthetic and loved the instant oil pressure as compared to the 15W40 as there is a time lag...I called Delo engineer and asked about 5W40 only in cold and he answered absolutely not it can be used in extreme heat as well. I have current plans to try Amsoil AME 15W40 in my 2006 Duramax with UOA's to provide information as needed, I will admit I am a newbie and willing to soak up all info seasoned oil vets can provide. I have spent countless nights going thru UOA's on Duramax's and will admit I am learning but I love my Duramax as it is Pre-Emission. BTW DNewton has it going on..so school me...I'm willing to learn if wrong. BTW I love Banter as I am a High Voltage Journeyman Lineman ,In the trade over 35 years ago I have learned to let it roll off a ducks back.So teach me.I have also thought about Delo Dino at intervals every 7500 being cost effective but having good protection.
Not necessarily...Believe a 5w stays a 5w and will have modifiers to act like a 40 at operating temps..
a 15W stays a 15w and acts like a 40 when warm..
http://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/
What you posted is true, if we are talking about mineral oils. I believe the oil in the OP is synthetic.
Quote:
A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed.
If your truck leaks or burns any oil it would probably be better off to go with T6 or another store bought synthetic. The thing I hate about Amsoil is availability. You can't just walk into any parts store and buy it like everything else and that's the reason I don't use it in my 7.3 because she leaks and burns a little oil and needs to be added to throughout the OCI.
It's a shame because I like Amsoil, but if they ever want more business from me they need to make their product more available. The only Amsoil I use currently is their motorcycle oils in my ATV because they have an unbeatable high temperature tolerance and I ride it hard. A local small engine shop sells that oil so I can get it relatively easy through them. Impossible to find diesel or PCMO Amsoil anywhere around here though without ordering online or finding a dealer, the one guy who sells it doesn't ever keep much on hand and is pretty lazy that way so I quit bothering with him.
It's a shame because I like Amsoil, but if they ever want more business from me they need to make their product more available. The only Amsoil I use currently is their motorcycle oils in my ATV because they have an unbeatable high temperature tolerance and I ride it hard. A local small engine shop sells that oil so I can get it relatively easy through them. Impossible to find diesel or PCMO Amsoil anywhere around here though without ordering online or finding a dealer, the one guy who sells it doesn't ever keep much on hand and is pretty lazy that way so I quit bothering with him.
Originally Posted By: CT8
The truck is 10 years old .
And?
The truck is 10 years old .
And?
Originally Posted By: jongies3
If your truck leaks or burns any oil it would probably be better off to go with T6 or another store bought synthetic. The thing I hate about Amsoil is availability. You can't just walk into any parts store and buy it like everything else and that's the reason I don't use it in my 7.3 because she leaks and burns a little oil and needs to be added to throughout the OCI.
It's a shame because I like Amsoil, but if they ever want more business from me they need to make their product more available. The only Amsoil I use currently is their motorcycle oils in my ATV because they have an unbeatable high temperature tolerance and I ride it hard. A local small engine shop sells that oil so I can get it relatively easy through them. Impossible to find diesel or PCMO Amsoil anywhere around here though without ordering online or finding a dealer, the one guy who sells it doesn't ever keep much on hand and is pretty lazy that way so I quit bothering with him.
It is a phone call away and like magic shows up at your front door.
If your truck leaks or burns any oil it would probably be better off to go with T6 or another store bought synthetic. The thing I hate about Amsoil is availability. You can't just walk into any parts store and buy it like everything else and that's the reason I don't use it in my 7.3 because she leaks and burns a little oil and needs to be added to throughout the OCI.
It's a shame because I like Amsoil, but if they ever want more business from me they need to make their product more available. The only Amsoil I use currently is their motorcycle oils in my ATV because they have an unbeatable high temperature tolerance and I ride it hard. A local small engine shop sells that oil so I can get it relatively easy through them. Impossible to find diesel or PCMO Amsoil anywhere around here though without ordering online or finding a dealer, the one guy who sells it doesn't ever keep much on hand and is pretty lazy that way so I quit bothering with him.
It is a phone call away and like magic shows up at your front door.
LOL, Thanks....Must admit I will be going back to Delo15W40, What do you think of Amsoil filter vs Mobil1 EP? Thanks
The Mobil1 filter is a blended media. The Amsoil EA filters are fully synthetic media. I have cut a couple of the Amsoil filters open from my wifes van and was impressed with their construction.
Mobil1 are actually constructed very similar, just Amsoil uses the more expensive full synthetic media.
Mobil1 are actually constructed very similar, just Amsoil uses the more expensive full synthetic media.
Get a Napa Platinum / Wix XP and you get full synthetic media also. Amsoil lists Wix for many of its filter applications on it's site, which leads me to believe that the Amsoil labeled filters are really Wix.
Thanks
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Get a Napa Platinum / Wix XP and you get full synthetic media also. Amsoil lists Wix for many of its filter applications on it's site, which leads me to believe that the Amsoil labeled filters are really Wix.
Nope, Amsoil sells the Wix as their economy filter for folks that won't be extending oci's.
Last I heard, Amsoil EA filters were made by Champ Labs.
Amsoil EA filters have a much better filtering efficiency than the Wix XP.
Get a Napa Platinum / Wix XP and you get full synthetic media also. Amsoil lists Wix for many of its filter applications on it's site, which leads me to believe that the Amsoil labeled filters are really Wix.
Nope, Amsoil sells the Wix as their economy filter for folks that won't be extending oci's.
Last I heard, Amsoil EA filters were made by Champ Labs.
Amsoil EA filters have a much better filtering efficiency than the Wix XP.
Would like to see the micron ratings and meta flow ratings on filters between Amsoil branded and Wix Platinum for similar engines. I really have no dog in the hunt, as I have been partial to Donaldson filters for most of my needs for several years.
Thanks
The Amsoil filter for my truck is just a relabeled Donaldson DBL7349. 100% efficient @ 20 microns. I'm going to guess that Wix XP doesn't match that.
I would like to see extended interval oil analyses on Amsoil vs. other brands - Mobil 1, other synthetics, even dyno oil. I've run Amsoil on my cars and taken samples in after 30,000 miles to ILFC and they've come back "okay for continued use". However, I'm a little leery of running my 2003 Cummins diesel that long. Amsoil says 3x OEM recommended interval is okay, which would make it worth it economically.
Does anybody have or seen that data?
Thanks!
Does anybody have or seen that data?
Thanks!
Ok for continued use doesn't mean that it really is. I use oil samples to follow trends. I base my oil change intervals on that. For my present engine in my semi, a Detroit 60 12.7L, the OEM recommendation is 15,000 / 300 hrs. Thru numerous samples, I have zeroed in on 22,500 / 450 hrs. Oil sample trend lines across the spectrum follow a uniform line, after 22,500, I start getting slight deviations from the trend lines in wear metals, TBN, etc. So I settled on 22,500 / 450 hrs. Lab still says oil is good, but the deviations, both small but noticeable spikes in wear metals that deviate from the gradual trend line, and moderate, increased rate of TBN depletion, and the everything is telling me in it's own kind way that the engine wants to sever it's current relationship with the oil in the sump, even though oil "technically" still good. just not in my engine. I have zero desire to set some sort of record on how long I can run an oil. Jeopardizing $25,000 worth of engine (that would be cost of a reman crate engine, not including install) is not worth playing in that sand box. I' ll leave that to folks who have Donald Trump, Warren Buffet, or Bill Gates as drinking buddies.
- Status
Similar threads
